@basic261
Do you know what you did 3 days ago to get them to work?
Also in settings Zwave details do you have locks/garage doors selected under secure join?
@NoWon. That's just it. I didn't do anything.
Secure Join. Yes it was select. I just changed that setting to All Secure Z-Wave. I'll see what happens
You won't want that. Locks and Garage Doors is your better bet.
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Wow either my lock just took a crap or my batteries just puked. Status says battery is 97% but all the sudden not working at all. and of course I don't have for AA alkaline batteries
I've already went down that path back when I had zwave lock problems, your entire zwave network will grind to a halt with it in that setting.
Yes I meant to use the locks/garage doors setting.
I suspect another zwave router device maybe causing interferance.
I would try unplugging any zwave router devices like plugs and remove power from any non zwave plus devices.
Then do a zwave repair.
Also on your lock device page where it says Data
Does it say " zwaveSecurePairingComplete: true"
It has been a year or so but searching back my issue was a old GE zwave switch causing interferance. (Zwave plus have been fine)
Have not had any issues since removing it.
@NoWon. I changed out 4 of my old GE Z-Wave switches with new Z-Wave + Inovelli switches. I have a few more to do when the $$$ are available.
I read today you shod use alkaline batteries in the lock. I had lithium batteries in. I swapped out today for new alkaline batteries. We'll see.
I've been using lithiums in 3 locks for over a year, performance wise there is no issue. They just don't report battery levels accurately like alkalines do as they mostly always say 100% for months on end. But when they do vary off of 100% be ready to change them out because they will die extremely fast within a day or so.
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Undesirable operation? Not sure what that is suppose to mean but Schlage does not recommend lithium.
I have not seen a difference in using different type of batteries except for battery life and general battery reporting either.
Looking through my old posts to refresh my memory try just going to the hubs settings and disable zwave then re-enable.
If your lock starts working try going and physically pushing one of your light switches one at a time and see if the locks stop responding. Then you will know if it is a switch causing an issue and which one it is (maybe more than one if the same model)
start with the old ones you have not replaced.
"Undesireable operation" to me would mean inaccurate battery reporting information. One of my locks in particular is not in a climate controlled environment so both sides of the lock are exposed to freezing temps, at which Lithiums are better adapted for that temp environment. I run lithium in everything.
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If you still have problems one thing I've done that you may/may not want to consider as it was a big PIA. First purchase a Aeotec Zwave USB Stick and a Y-adapter like this. https://www.amazon.com/Duttek-Splitter-Enhancer-Converter-Extension/dp/B07FSMF4Q6/ref=sr_1_24?keywords=micro+usb+y+splitter&qid=1571533168&sr=8-24
Completely wipe all your zwave devices, and reset your zwave radio, start from scratch. Then attach the y-adapter and Aeotec Zwave stick and rejoin everything starting with your Aeotec Extenders first, then other repeating devices and battery devices last. This y adapter and zwave sitck bypasses the internal zwave radio and uses the stick which seems to me to be more reliable over the internal one.
Not to mention if your hub ever fails you can just attach this stick and restore your database and you should be back in business.
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That’s a very good idea, but yes a massive PITA that would take me several days to get through. I do have a z wave stick already so I could do this... thank you for the idea! Maybe sometime later in the winter when I’m getting cabin fever.
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In my garage where my most troubled lock is I have just finished the following in hopes of lock-salvation 
Right now it’s all working well, but I need to let it settle for a few weeks before I finally call this one done.
- Installed a 2nd HE C5
- 1 Aeotec 6 Repeater is 5’ to the left of the lock
- 1 Aeotec 6 Repeater is 5’ to the right of the lock.
- 2 GoControl z-wave dimmer bulbs are in the ceiling of the garage
- 1 WADWAZ Z-zwave contact sensor connected to the garage door
I excluded everything above.
Got the hub online. Installed HubLink on the master hub and LinktoHub on the new hub.
I included in the following order
- 2 Aeotec 6 repeaters
- Lock (excluded and factory reset twice - then included. It paired in place)
- Lights
- Contact Sensor
I edited all effected rules and hopefully everything maintains a high WAF while I’m away for work next week...
The only downside so far (other than being $75 poorer, not including extenders, for something my Wink v1 could handle without a problem) is that I can’t see the battery levels for the door via dashboards on the main hub with HubLink.
I think the only thing that will help you there is the addition of the 2 Aeotec 6 repeaters. The bulbs and the contact sensors will not act as repeaters.
I shouldn't say this but I've had 0 issues this weekend. My system is running better now then ever. The only thing I did was change out the lithium batteries in the lock for alkaline batteries. I know this probably has nothing to do with it but....
The contact sensors won't (battery-powered devices don't), but the bulb should. Most mains powered Z-Wave devices do--I think all do if paired that way in order to get certified--and the conformance document further indicates that it supports beaming, which is helpful with Z-Wave locks.
EDIT: This, of course, assumes you keep the wall switches on so they are used as fully "smart" bulbs. 
For sure the contact sensor wont be a repeater, that's battery powered.
The only thing that's new is the 2nd hub. Those 2 Aeotec repeaters have been in place for several months.
I hope yours continues to run properly!
