Started Bringing Z-wave devices over to my C7. Inovelli Include Flawlessly, their devices should come with a lit up Hubitat Logo on the face of the device. Aeotec & Zooz seem fine but Jabsco/GE I cringe when I know their next to include except the switches with the built in motion sensor their fine, everything else either shows up as a contact sensor or just plain ghosts me on the first attempt but ends up in my device list either as a contact sensor (does GE even make contact sensors?) or the correct device type with the Jabsco/GE name meaning I don't even get a chance to name it. when they show up as contact sensor I obviously have to exclude them which is hit or miss. I've learned to let the C7 try exclude them or repair before zapping them with the Z stick. The Hub has been able to repair all but one of the ghost nodes that ones just stuck forever probably but zwave repair doesn't even try to find it when repairing so I think I'm good. Make sure to check device list/Zwave settings before you just go and exclude with a stick. The Ge devices work fine once you get them included properly. I kind of laughed when I heard the hubitat Live guys say they want to be the best when it comes to Z-wave well I'm not laughing anymore. I'm not sure of the reasons why the C7 is noticeably faster then the C5 but it's blazing fast, it be hard to tell difference between wired and Zwave in my case. I can make a Inovelli Bulb from at least 100' away through walls and whatever else flash on and off and change colors instantly very impressive. Only thing different between a C7 and C5 is the zwave chip? Must be some magic going on behind it or maybe my C5 Z-wave network was just messed up but it seemed fine not impressive though. My only devices so far that have contributed to Ghost nodes are from Jabsco/GE and it's not a distance thing some of them were in the first group of devices I added. I've included all device with all boxes unchecked so security none.
It sounds like your problem ultimately boils down to the wrong driver being automatically selected when pairing the devices. You should be able to open the device page once it finishes initializing and select the appropriate driver.
If you post the device fingerprint (shown on the inclusion page) @bcopeland can likely fix the association. That would resolve the problem going forward.
I've used the newer GE Enbrighten Toggle Switches for all bathroom fans and have not encountered those issues... I have them installed in 2 different locations - about 8 total. So maybe it's specific to your models if you have different ones from mine - this would be a good thing to know.
Your right, I thought of that after I posted but only if the device doesn't ghost me. I'm basically saying I really have to look at my device list if I get no response like nothing was included. Basically like nothing was found.
I'll include fingerprint on the next one that shows up as a contact sensor, not about to exclude them lol is there another way? GE 46201 switch, GE plug in switch zw4103 I'll have to look up the model of the hard wired plugs. If that even helps
I'm just letting people with maybe not that much experience know what I've experienced. people that have been using hubitat for a while can figure out what's going on pretty easily but someone new to the platform might just return it.
You can also get the device fingerprint by switching the driver to “Device” and clicking the “Get Info” button, looking in the logs. I believe this is the standard way.
Thinking more about this, isn't the fingerprint correct since it has only happened on first attempt to add the devices it gets it right if I have to include again or after the zwave tools fix it.
Strange. I have several enbrighten outlets as well as enbrighten door sensors and every one of them paired flawlessly on my c5 and when I moved them to my c7
Does distance of the hub to the device make a diff when pairing? (I tend to pair everything next to the hub when it comes to z-wave)
Sometimes with S2 devices I find it does. How do you pair your mains powered devices close to the hub? laptop and long ethernet cable? pain in the butt...the only thing I find that I need to pair close to my hubs are some battery powered S2 and door locks. Definitely wasn't a distance thing, when I had my troubles even the GE devices close to the hub went stealth on me. I was pairing other brands and GE from many feet away so I don't know. Seems to be just hit or miss.
I haven't paired any of my zwave devices close to the hub - 100% were done in-place, including the dozen or so S2 devices I have. But I do have a 100% zwave plus mesh and I know all my mains powered devices all support network wide inclusion, too. Might make a difference, might not.
All my Ring S2 and Enbrighten S2 devices all paired fine in-place (with S2 pairing).
I guess radio waves are a fickle beast.
Thinking back on my install to the C7. I think some of my issues had to do with some ghost nodes that added themselves because when I removed the ghost nodes they weren't even included yet by me they just tried to jump on somehow and most of the ghost's don't have smart start. its so random, It's fun trying to track down Ghost nodes that you didn't include yet. Glad I had a Z stick handy.
lol so true
Zstick is quite handy for that - I've had to do it myself more than once.
Why the PC Controller can do things the zwave application framework can't is a mystery to me. Only SiLabs can answer that one - but I'll go on record as saying it is a bunch of bullshit.
Shouldn't need an external stick for anything (other than sniffing maybe), and you shouldn't be able to do things from the PC Controller that you can't do from the hub.
I have a little wifi to rj45 adapter I use and just need to plug in power. Then when everything is said and done I just run a z-wave repair. Within 24 hours all routes are good
I haven't run a Z-Wave repair (device or mesh level) in ages, and don't intend to unless someone bigger than me makes me.
The only Z-Wave medication I've required has been removing ghosts (via HE or via PC Controller/UZB stick) when pairings at the limit of connectivity went bad. As long as I've removed ghosts my mesh heals and all things Z-Wave "just work." I have some Z-Wave devices (lock, garage door, five GE switches/dimmers) and the rest are Z-Wave Plus (all switches/dimmers are Jasco/GE/Honeywell). For me leaving the mesh to itself as much as possible has been the key. The Z-Wave Details screen is a black hole that used to suck me into doing stuff that was mostly unnecessary/unhelpful. Needs a "Beware" sign on it.
Not sure what you're referring to lol but ok. I don't mess with stuff unless it's broke
The comment in the post just above mine regarding running a z-wave repair.