I have some on Hue, and some on HE. I don't see a big difference.
If you have HA too, they support the regular Lutron Smart Bridge 2. You could use their Hue integration and bring the bulbs back to Hubitat with HADB for other automations if you want.
Yes, they definately are. There are wall plate brackets avaiable, but for Decora switch plates. Probably could find 3d printed mounts for UK wall plates. You would need special wall plates to use Picos in the UK anyway, since they are also sized for Decora style plates.
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Sweet Jesus £188 for a wall plate. There must be some crazy people around to pay that.
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The Lutron enthusiasts will go to great lengths. They are exceptionally good devices. I definately spent a lot on the Claro wall plates versus standard plates. Caséta is my budgetary limit. It's acutally been less expensive, so much easier, and far more flexible to put Picos everywhere in my home than to have smart switches everywhere.
However, some of the Lutron line can get exceptionally expensive. Doesn't surprise me that they are asking so much for them. They know their customer base I'm sure. I'm going to assume that their standard white plates are not that crazy.
Can guarantee that, for sure. 
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That was the standard white powder coated metal one!
All of my Hue bulbs are paired directly to HE, and all of my Hue downlights are bound (either directly or via zigbee groups) to Inovelli Blue switches, so they work without any hub intervention. Binding to the switches wouldn't be possible if I used the Hue hub, so that's a deal breaker for me.
I have about 12 Hue bulbs in table lamps, etc. that aren't directly paired to Inovelli switches, so those could be moved to a Hue hub, but I don't see any point in that so I don't have a Hue hub.
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I know nothing about UK wall plate sizes, but those seem ridiculously large for one Pico anyway. Maybe these?
Anyway, unless you have money to burn, the Pico pricing in nuts for the UK. I pay around 15 quid or less here in Canada for a standard five button white Pico. I'm seeing 88 quid on Amazon.co.uk
My system is entirely Z wave based currently with the exception of one Zigbee blind. I don't think I could trust the C-8 to run all of my lights directly if they were Zigbee. As I've a number of downlights there'd be 60 plus lamps. There have been quite a few reports of Zigbee crashes on the forum (I realise that it's a tiny fraction of the user base but it's still of concern). Also I don't recall ever hearing a user reporting needing to regularly reboot a Hue Hub (though I could be wrong). My initial foray into HE and the purchase of the C-7 was with the intent of using one hub for everything; I'm beginning to think that segregating things onto separate systems may be a better idea.
That's cheaper than the Hue remote is here.
This is most of my house too, but we also have a lot of lamps and hue are excellent for those.
I also use hue colour bulbs outside for porch lighting because they work in the Australian heat and let me do colour holiday lighting.
Geeze...unless that's one of those crazy sellers that you see here in the US as well with items astronomically priced for no reason, that's just bizarre.
Do you lose the ability to do FW updates when they are joined to HE directly?
Hue globes also default to on, but the last state option works very well IME.
One of the things I really like is hue network resiliency to half your globes being off at the wall switch, and yet the others still work perfectly.
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I was feeling the same way for a while, but things are pretty stable for me now.
I went with zigbee for a few reasons. First, the only decent downlight retrofits I could find were Hue. I don't trust any of the crap sold in the big box stores, and AFAIK there are no z-wave downlight retrofits.
I also wanted any permanent lighting that is controlled by a (formerly dumb) switch to work whether the hub is running or not. I've replaced every switch in my house with an Inovelli Blue 2-1, but even if I get hit by a bus and the hub goes down, all the light switches in my house will continue to operate the lights the are expected to. My house is better because of automation, but I refuse to make (most) things in my house dependent upon some little black box that nobody but me understands (including probably most electricians).
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Same, 2700k is a nice general white for most areas.
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I've got them in three of our bedrooms, one in the living room, and two in the family room. I find they work well for us in all of those locations...def do not like the (to me) harsher tone of higher K lights, and at 1100 lumens they are bright enough for our uses.
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Bathroom vanities and kitchen island we cycle between 2700 nighttime and 3500 daytime. Ambiance for those and color for the garage outdoor fixtures. 2700 for most general lighting.
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In some rooms, just the dumb manual switch because they aren’t important. It’s more important that Hubitat turns them off when they’ve been left on too long by children.
In other areas, we have zwave modules behind manual switches and frequently motion sensors in those rooms.
Picos for our vanities and table lamps. Inovelli smart switches for ceiling fixtures and room scene control.
I use these to prevent easily toggling off a light. Easy to slide out of the way. YLOVAN Toggle Switch Plate Cover Guard 10 Pack Clear - Security, Circuit and Child Protection for Indoor/Outdoor Wall Plate Covers - Amazon.com
