I am not a plumber but I had no issues installing my Watercop.
The water company had just installed a new water meter. The tech said removing it to help install the water meter would be OK.
The below was all done without the box on the WC valve and not heating the WC valve by soldering at its thread to sweat adapter.
My goal (which determined the below steps) was to not heat up the valve of the WC by soldering close by.
With the main water off (Yellow knob on bottom left) I disconnected the vertical (in the photo) section.
I soldered the bottom 90° to the watercop (WC) fitting while it was not connected to the WC.
I assembled this bottom pipe to the WC using loctite 540 on the threads.
Take the guts out of the shutoff valve with the blue knob.
Remove the pipe below the shutoff with the blue knob.
I soldered another piece of pipe to the WC 2nd adapter (still not on the WC)
Cut the new pipe to length
install on the WC and solder it to the valve with the blue knob (with damp rag over WC valve to keep it cool).
It sounds like a lot of work but its not really, I tried to add every step I performed.
I used to struggle with solder joints but no more. A few years ago I learned to make a nice sweat joint see below)
- Get a MAPP torch with a good "head"
- Get the required no lead plumbers solder and flux.
- Clean, clean, clean the parts.
- I clean the id of a fitting with a wire plumbers brush. Many turns of the brush be absolutely certain the exposed metal is clean. Do not touch the inside after the brushing.
- Coat the inside of the fitting with flux using a CLEAN small plastic part (handle of a plastic picnic spoon etc). Again do not touch the metal before fluxing.
- Repeat for the mating part.
- Fit them together and heat of minute or two keeping the solder pressed against the gap between the Id and Od of the parts. As soon as it melts run the solder around the gap. You should see the solder wick around the gap.
Remove heat and let cool.
These things I learned mad me no longer cringe at having to sweat a joint are: