If you press the physical Dimmer Up button, the Caseta dimmer comes on at a very low dim level. The Physical On button Jumps straight to 100%.
To be honest, while this may be an issue for some users, I really don’t mind it at all. 95% of our lighting is automated via motion, contact sensors, or time-based Hubitat automations. We really don’t touch the light switches very often. Since Hubitat is controlling the dimmers, they come on at the appropriate dim levels.
I never said anything about the slider. I meant the top 'on' button. Why shouldn't it work the same way as the physical device? I want the precise desired level, whether previous on or absolute value without futzing around with a slider.
One more thing... you can adjust on a per Caseta dimmer the maximum and minimum dim levels through a physical procedure at the switch. It is part of the Advanced Features documentation for the Caseta products.
Here is the document
Not quite as good as a preferred/default On level, but better than nothing.
I see, only the Caseta ones with a fav button do it. That's a shame. Another vote for RA2 Full, sorry
@bill.d why bother using the Lutron app anyway, just setup a HE dashboard and you can turn the dimmer on at the last level. Or make a separate button for each level you want and you'll have one click access. I have a Lighting dash that controls all the Lutron dimmers and never use the Lutron app. But still I see your point.
No need to apologize. I knew Caseta’s limitations when I bought into the system. I have zero regrets and zero issues with the system. It works incredibly well, and at about half the price of Radio RA2, I am happy with my decision. I have not had a single complaint from anyone in my family. 
Perhaps unlike @ogiewon, I never touch the physical dimmer switch. So my automations always set the dimmer digitally at the desired level.
as @april.brandt said on the other thread, it's all about setting expectations. Know how you plan to use the system, and what it can/cannot provide, and you'll be happy with your solution.
Motion lighting just wouldn't work here. One of many examples, my wife likes cook in silence, and near darkness. When I cook most of the kitchen light are at 75% and the Sonos is cranked!
What is popcorning, I have seen that said a lot. Is it when I turn the light and it pops on in a weird way
Your end statement of go pro for pico , I was going ask if it's worth going bro just for the pico alone ?
I just bought 8 of these red line switches ( see link below). My plan was to build a robust zwave network by putting a repeater in ever room and replace every switch in the house with the red line switches and also have motion sensors in ever main room that is not a Bedroom
I already bought around 6 color bulbs from inovelli also.
I only have one spot in the basement that one switch controls 9 BR30s and a spot in the kitchen with 6 br30, besides the br30s every bulb in the house will be replaced with a inovelli bulb ( unless someone suggest something better )
Popcorning is when you command a group of lights to turn on all at once, but they actually turn on one at a time in a somewhat random order...like watching popcorn kernels pop. The same can occur when turning them off as well. Most find this behavior annoying.
The lowest cost way to use Pico remotes with Hubitat is to buy a Lutron Caseta SmartBridge Pro. Only the "Pro" model support Telnet, which Hubitat requires for a local LAN integration.
Truth , it is a little annoying
How does one fix it ?
By building a robust network ?
The method to eliminate/reduce popcorning...depends on the lights.
With Zigbee, Hubitat allows bulbs to be added to a Hubitat "Group". There is an option in the group to enable "Zigbee Group Messaging". This allows the hub to send a single Zigbee broadcast to cause all of the bulbs in the group to turn on or off simultaneously.
(Note: I believe Philips Hue handles this as well via their bridge. I don't use a Hue bridge for Zigbee bulbs, so others would need to chime in on those details.)
With Lutron, I believe you need to create a Lutron Scene and then activate that scene from Hubitat.
For Z-Wave, I am not aware of how this is handled. Hopefully someone else can chime in. I am not aware that Hubitat can currently prevent popcorning on Z-Wave devices.
I would use Smart Switches instead of Smart Bulbs, personally. But that is somewhat of a personal choice. I would rather not deal with the issues created by trying to control large groups of smart bulbs when a single switch would suffice. Also, the Smart Switch can operate perfectly fine even if the Hub is down. Those smart bulbs will not.
There isn't any good way of handling this in ZWave outside of using the all-on and all-off commands, which Hubitat does not support.
All-on / all-off is a weird, seldom used today, zwave capability. It is seldom used because it is literally ALL on/off... Not by room, but by entire mesh. You could opt devices out of participating in all on/off, but there still is just one group (you can't make multiple groups).
As such, almost no one used it/or supported it in the hub. (yes, there are hubs and controllers out there that support it - but I stand by my statement that in practice it is seldom used, and not universally supported)
In this case, @sstretchh, I would really not recommend using Z-Wave bulbs that need to be part of a group. Sounds like they will always popcorn on and off, while the hub sends a Z-wave command to each one, one at a time.
They do always popcorn to some extent. Whether it bothers you is up to the individual.
I have multiple zwave light groups (on/off by switches - no zwave bulbs, no dimmers). They are fast, but not 100% synchronized on/off. The less bogged down the mesh is, the faster it goes. But it is not guaranteed to be synchronous (and sometimes is noticeably popcorned).
My light groups are small - 4 lights. For that, I don't think it is too bad (<1s for all to come on/off). But you can definitely hear it going click-click-click-click in rapid fire succession maybe 200ms apart.
It can be a lot more disturbing/noticeable with dimmers / dimmable lights as they all fade on at different rates. Luckily all mine are on/off switches that are in groups.
@JasonJoel @ogiewon ahh makes sense
I tested automating my foyer ( 2 celing lights and on table top.light ) I have noticed that popcorning, hasn't bug me to much but wondered how I could make it better
I do have repeaters coming in the mail
Where I have hue in the kitchen and it's pretty seamless
This is going to make me rethink if i should suck it up and buy hue every where
Personally, if I was going to start with a clean sheet of paper... I would use Lutron for all Switches, Dimmers, Fan controllers, and Pico remotes. I would use Philips Hue for all Smart Bulbs. That would take care of all lighting in the house, and those two system can be used with Amazon Alexa, Google Home, Logitech Harmony Hub, Apple HomeKit, SmartThings, Home Assistant, Node Red, and of course Hubitat Elevation. Lutron and Philips would make an incredibly solid foundation for lighting automation, especially when tied together via Hubitat.
For all sensor-type devices, I would go with Zigbee motion/temperature, contact/temperature, and leak/temperature sensors directly paired to the Hubitat Hub.
To me, this makes for a very solid, robust platform. And, all of it will still work when the internet is down! (Except for voice control, of course!)
It is also nice knowing that these investments are still viable should you ever decide move to a different home automation controller. Not having to re-pair all of the switches and bulbs is a huge timesaver.
Personally I'd leave it as that statement.
Pretty much at a clean slate
Hue have in the entire kitchen , bought all those switches but i can sent them back
But i am puzzled why lutron for all switches if all my bulbs will be hue ?
As in you agree don't use zwave bulbs ?
Download the Hubitat app
