@damon.dinsmore No hub yet. I just ordered mine and will begin tinkering soon.
I just searched the SmartThings forum and there is no integration for those Bluetooth bulbs over there either. Bluetooth is going to be hard to work around, IMHO.
@cag - your best bet may be to sell the GE C Life A19 bulbs and replace them with Sengled bulbs for <$8 a piece. Sengled bulbs work very well with Hubitat as they are well behaved Zigbee mesh network members. They are NOT zigbee repeaters like many other bulbs. Those other bulbs often cause zigbee mesh instability because they are poor repeaters.
Soft White, dimmable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074K427TZ/ref=twister_B07NLS6Z8P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Or, if you want Color RGBW Zigbee bulbs, Sengled has you covered there too
https://www.amazon.com/Sengled-Multicolor-2000-6500K-Equivalent-SmartThings/dp/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1K2URZX1WYSXR&keywords=sengled+element+color+plus&qid=1550005615&s=hi&sprefix=Sengled+Element+Color%2Ctools%2C173&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1
Or you could go with a Philips Hue bridge and bulbs if you'd like to still be able to control them via a dedicated app on your phone, along with Hubitat control.
Lots of lighting options available. You could also use smart switches and dimmers with 'dumb' bulbs. You can use Z-Wave Plus, Zigbee, or Lutron switches/dimmers. (Note: Lutron Caseta switches and dimmers require the Lutron Smart Bridge PRO to act as a bridge between the Lutron Clear Connect RF protocol and the Hubitat Hub.)
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@cag - I do have one more idea for you, but your GE C Life bulbs would need to be connected to a Google Home device (using the C Reach device).
If you have a Google Home device, and can control your bulbs via voice control, then there is a one-way option to have Hubitat control these bulbs. It isn't exactly pretty, but it is doable for the somewhat tech-savvy.
You would need to run a Raspberry Pi (or similar) on your home network. On this RPi, you can run a NodeJS server called Google Assistant Relay. This NodeJS server can accept http commands that mimic voice control of a Google Home device, using the Custom Command [CC] feature of my Google Assistant Relay Driver for Hubitat. Take a look at the following guide. Again, not for those who want a simple plug and play...and definitely not as reliable as just using one of the natively supported lighting options I mentioned above...but it is possible!
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@ogiewon Thanks for the info. I do have a Google Home set-up at my house. I'll probably stick to plug and play devices during my transition to Hubitat and acquire something like the Sengled you recommended. For WAF purposes I'd like to replace some of the functionality I had with IRIS first before I go tinkering. Best Buy had an offer recently where you'd get a 2-pack of GE C Life bulbs for FREE with the purchase of a Google Mini Smart Lighting Kit (which includes 1 GE C Life bulb). The Google Mini kit was $35 so you'd basically get 1 Google Mini + 3 Bulbs for $35. It's safe to stay I have a healthy stock of bulbs that I'll have to find some use for.
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Ok I know this has been discussed several time but I would just like to be 100% clear on this. I recently acquired a iris smart key fob for free not the 4 button one itās the one used to control the alarm on the iris hub so what Iām understanding from this conversation is that it will not work with Hubitats hub. Iām just trying to come up with an easy solution for my wife and kids I use the alarm feature on the hub but until the app comes out Iām left with no way to turn on and off I know I can get a keypad but a key fob will work better for the family, I tried the 4 button iris key fob but man that thing is the cheapest made piece of crap Iāve ever seen I purchased 2 and just installing the batteries broke them and I had to return for refund, I have a Aotec 4 button fob but thatās not supported. Any ideas and an answer on the iris smart key question is greatly appreciated.
This one? The NanoMote? They are supported on Hubitat.
Hank distributes them too, with slightly different markings.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0799SF1KC/ref=twister_B07DGLZ4JT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Thanks for the reply CS how big is the fob I will be giving these to the wife and 3 kids not worried about the wife but if it aināt attached to the damn kids they lose it.
The Gen 1 IRIS Key Fobs were built like tanks. I use 2 till today.
Hey CAG I think I may have had the V2 4 button remotes when I tried to take the batteries out the pins on the inside broke off so they wouldnāt work i had to take them back.
Will the SmartThings button work itās smaller?
They are small, but all the buttons are "exposed" -- they are NOT pocket ready, in my opinion.
Have you considered the SmartThings Arrival Sensor? These are designed for use on a keychain, or in a backpack. They are Zigbee and simply send a periodic signal to hub. When the hub sees the signal, it updates the user's status to "present". When the signal is lost for a period of time, the user is marked "not present". You can then use these "presence sensors" to automate the arming or disarming of HSM, or to simply change the "mode" of the hub from Away to Home, for example.
As for buttons...
Here is a list of Hubitat button devices that are natively supported.
This post hasn't been updated in a while as there is now an official list of supported devices at List of Compatible Devices - Hubitat Documentation
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Yes Ogiewon I tried it but not on HE when I had that horrible smartthings hub I tested them out and letās just say I almost got tossed out of my house for it, the damn thing would say my wife had left home at like 2 and 3 am in the mornings it drove her mad she said either they go or I do so I got rid of those things.
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If every family member has a smart phone, you could create a very simple Hubitat Dashboard to allow control of the Alarm arming state. You can save the url directly to the desktop of iOS and Android so the dashboard opens like a normal application.
Tried that, my problem is Iām not sure about your home life but everything in my house has to be wife approved she tried it for 2 days And wouldnāt use it again, so thatās why I need a device type situation, will be glad when HE comes out with the approved app.
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I created an account to respond to your post, as I have the same challenge. I had a hard time convincing my wife to try home automation, but Iris convinced her. As she put it, it was simple, and it worked, without being complicated. And issues usually ended up being user error, not the system, like family switching off things that Iris controlled, or blocking sensors. I'm still trying to find a solution to replace Iris, but I am reading all I can about Hubitat.
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The 'distance' between Iris and Hubitat is pretty vast.
I started Home Automation on a Staples Connect, which, like Iris, really wanted to control the experience. I understand exactly why too. You invest so much effort to bring a hub to life an you want people, especially the SO to love it, or at least not hate it. Controlling the experience is how that's done.
The Giants like Amazon (Echo), Google (Home) and Apple (HomeKit) still work behind the scenes to integrate new devices, usually before they are available, to get that 'logo.' Hubitat, like SmartThings, is able to be customized by anyone. All new devices will be functional on Hubitat and SmartThings well before any other Hub.
The result is instead of buying devices from the Compatible List, we go find the cheapest equivalent and then jump all the hurdles to get it to 'work OK.'
If you stick with items on the Compatible List, you will be running sooner and with fewer hurdles.
There's a list of Iris v2 and v3 devices. They should migrate over pretty easily. Certainly one of the most popular devices around here are the Iris v2 and v3 Motion Sensors. Fast, easy to pair. Work as expected. I know, I have 6.
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Believe me Dredwolf1 I have tried Staples Connect, Home Assistant, Wink, SmartThings, Vera, Homeseer, Nexia and finally Openhab not in any particular order, the closest that I came to making my wife happy was Homeseer but after the software somehow got corrupted on my Rasberri pi my wife said no to that to but Hubitat has been rock solid since I installed it no downtime except for this past weekend, We live in Ga and Ga power are the worst at keeping the power on I have my hub plugged into a backup power supply but for some reason the internet wasnāt getting to it but every thing still worked locally I was out of town and the only way we new there was a problem was because I tried to login from Md on my local pc but it wouldnāt my son had to unplug and plug back in and then internet worked fine. Donāt know what that was about. My only issue with the system is the one I mentioned were using the web to turn alarm on and off and my wife doesnāt like that so I need a physical way of doing it. Some kind of key fob is preferred.
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To close this out all the help and comments have been greatly appreciated thx guys.
You have a lot of options. Hubitat supports the CentraLite keypad, as well as the Iris v2 (nearly identical) and v3 keypads and any others that are the CentraLite rebranded (Xfinity, etc.). You can also use a v2 or later Iris fob, though I'm not sure if those were well reviewed and they'd certainly be hard to find (at least new) with Lowe's sending all their stock back with the Iris shutdown.
More generally, any button device should work. (Well, really, anything would work, but button-style devices are the most practical.) There are a variety of portable Z-Wave button devices. I used to use an Aeon Minimote, but the Hank 1- or 4-button Z-Wave devices would probably be better for this. If you feel like adding another device to your network and plunking down a bit of initial cash in exhange for cheap Pico remotes, a Lutron Smart Bridge Pro and a Pico remote would be something you can use as well--for this and lots of other things. (A Pico would make a bad fob but you could use the visor-clip accessory and mount it like a garage door remote.) A Hue dimmer could also work if paired directly to Hubitat.
If you want to go all-out, you can use a wall-mounted tablet with a dashboard (Hubitat Dashboard, SharpTools.io, or anything you can find), though that's probably a bit more work than you'd want to do just for this--and definitely far away from the fob style you prefer.
Personally, I have two Picos I bought for this purpose, a tablet with a dashboard (which I rarely use anymore), a smart lock with a keypad (could trigger my code to disarm--I don't), and two Minimotes. My preference has shifted between all of them or none of them. II don't use a fob because I rarely drive and rarely even take my keys at all now with my locks, so I don't have much to compare your exact preferences to, but I guess my point is that you have a lot of options and can probably find one that you like. 
(If you have Alexa or similar, you can even do it via voice, though I'd choose an option like a virtual lock that you can PIN-protect.)
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