LightwaveRF Light Switches (v1, so no feedback on state)
HomeAssistant
This setup has worked reasonably well, but I'm fed up with the LightwaveRF (LWRF) switches not providing feedback, and v2 of LWRF requires a connection back to their cloud, which I'm not happy about.
I'm also looking for something that my wife and kids can easily code states into etc should they want to, and with a wide range of platforms that it will link into, and with the option for commercial support (which HomeAssistant doesn't really have).
Hubitat seems to fit the bill nicely in all these areas, so I'm very much tempted to make the leap, however I've got a couple of questions that I can't find the answer to anywhere else:
Are there any dimmable light-switches which don't require a neutral wire that are compatible with Hubitat?
Is there anywhere I can track the progress of the AONE plug sockets (I'd rather not have any "wall warts" in order to control my power, they look really ugly, but I'm also struggling to find UK plug wall sockets!)
I'm deliberately avoiding Hue and other smart-bulbs because I need this to "just work" when my mother-in-law/babysitter comes over - they shouldn't need to install an app just to get the lighting to work, and I shouldn't have to write a rule in a Home Automation solution just to turn a bulb on and off!
Anyway, all help gratefully accepted, it looks like a great platform, and as we're about to rewire most of the downstairs of the house (including pulling CAT6e to all light fittings, switches, and plug sockets "just in case"), this could be a great solution for us!
I have an Aone dimmer working ok. No neutral. I also use Fibaro no neutral dimmer modules but you need a deep pattress box for them to fit. You can fit the modules in the ceiling rose if you wish.
I'm also using LWRF gen 1 sockets and dimmers via an RPi to talk locally to the LW hub. I find it to be ok.
Not sure if Lutron Caseta is available in the UK but they work REALLY well with HE. They do however require a Lutron smart bridge (Pro model). Not cheap but rock solid.
Unfortunately not. Why Lutron ignores that market is beyond me. As you point out, they are rock solid switches/dimmers and the radio frequency used is compatible with going through commonly used building materials like a knife through soft butter.
We're in the process of having the house extended, and I've deliberately asked for deeper boxes on all the sockets and switches for exactly this reason!
LWRF v1 is fine for the three rooms we've currently got it fitted in, but I want that feedback side of things as well - is the light really on, or is that just the last state that the hub knows about because someone switched it off at the wall?
With the AONE dimmer, is that connected directly to HE, or do you need a bridge between the two? The AONE switches look like the closest thing to a "UK" wall switch now that Den are defunct, so if they work then it means that I don't need to teach anyone about having to push the same button for on/off and hold for dimming...
If it's being rewired ask them to "loop in at the switch" that way you will have a neutral, this isn't always need by gives you loads more options. It also much better to have natural on a dimmer as they can then control smaller loads better.
All the AONE range is currently in the air and heading to Mike at Hubitat. It's due to arrive mid this week, then he has to get chance to build all the drivers. Hopefully that won't take long .
This isn't a bad idea, make sure you can use it to take 12 v to the switches (or wire another t+e around). I wired security cable to all doors and windows. Then took this back to a box above the door in each room, then I wired a cable between theses boxes per zone (covers all base's). These are then wired back to a location, so I have 2 runs on ground then 1st and 2nd. I then have a cat 6 to where a motion sensor is per room again wired back to same location.
I used the Fibaro UBS for this (also gives me temperature per room) but I would look into Konnected if I was doing it now.
Yes, it's connected directly to HE and they work well.
The only problem at the moment is the dimmer has a blue led that glows. There is a driver that can turn the light on and off but after a power cut it will turn back on again. Not a big deal.
just be aware that AOne products are still improving and being updated. So you may need their hub or smart things hub to do update. Aurora have already asked if HE do OTA updates so i'm sure once they do there wont be a issue with them supplying them to HE. Until then your need the other hubs to ensure everything is working correctly.
For now, I've ordered an in-line Sonoff z-wave switch to play with. Once that's working, I'll come back to the AOne kit and see what the status is, but that's good to know.
So the HE arrived, and within 20 minutes I've got it controlling all my Sonos devices, a zigbee switch that I picked up cheap on Amazon, and I'm working on getting it controlling the TV.
This thing is amazing, so much less faff than HomeAssistant, and if I can get it talking to my LightwaveRF box instead of just throwing "connection refused" that will be even better!
I have Gen 1 and can control them through an RPi.
If you wish to have a go at this here is the thread I posted that shows you how to set up your RPi and also a dimmer and outlet driver.
Once set up it does work well.
Here is the link to the thread which also points you out to another Smartthings thread which shows you how to set up the RPi.
This is not my work, I just followed it and converted the drivers from ST to HE.
Have a read and then you can decide if you want to give it a try.
Mine is using port 8000.
Looking at the driver code, maybe try changing these lines to the port that you want to use.
This one is the dimmer driver.
If it works, change the switch one as well.
EDIT: Actually looking at your screenshot above, you are defining 2 ports.
Maybe try deleting " + ':8000' " and see if it works.
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