I just got a Zooz S2 switch (ZEN26) and have it all hooked up not in 3-way configuration but simple single switch. Seems to be working fine with one exception. If I turn it off, the light turns mostly off. It seems that there is a trace amount of power still going to the light because it is very dim. The light is an LED. Bad switch? maybe I wired it wrong, but double checked it and seems fine. I checked it with a Multimeter and seems to be about 15 volts still going to the light. Ideas?
I just installed 3 or 4 Zen27 with no issue like this. I'd suspect the switch, open a support ticket with Zooz, their support is excellent. I imagine they may want you to test the switch in another location and see what happens.
Zooz Zen 26/27 Wall switch pairing
I have another Zen26 I hooked up to this light and it does the same thing, so I'm suspecting something with the light but I will try their support.
could you post your wire connections? It's weird, you have a switch, not a dimmer. It looks like it's passing power to the bulb somewhere, where are you located, US? do you have a multimeter?
dumb switch installed previously didnt do this? to confirm, you tried two different Zen26 at this switch and both behaved the same?
Correct - dumb switch before did not do this
Correct - tried two different Zen26 with same result
@vjv - yes in the US and I have a mutimeter I used to test the terminal and found 15volts still going to light.
Do you have the ground(green or no cover) connected? I know the switch use neutral(white).
Yes, bare ground connected to the green screw and white neutral connected to terminal labeled neutral. Inbound power to the line terminal and Load goes to the light.
Seems to be good. I did a test with my zooz switch, not the s2 model, but without the bulb it has 2 volts, the last questions I have for you are, what bulb it is and could you try another bulb? maybe different brand.
Could it be the following parameters need adjustment (from the manual)?
Minimum and Maximum Brightness
Parameter 10: Set the minimum
brightness level (in %) for your
dimmer. You won’t be able to dim the
light below the set value.
Values: 1 – 99 (%). Default set to 1.
Size: 1 byte dec.
Parameter 11: Set the maximum
brightness level (in %) for your
dimmer. You won’t be able to add
brightness to the light beyond the set
value. Note: if Parameter 12 is set to
value 0, Parameter 11 is automatically
Values: 1 – 99 (%). Default set to 99.
Size: 1 byte dec.
I know with lutron caseta dimmers sometimes you have to adjust the minimum level to assure the bulb is off and not flickering at lowest levels. Also, as @vjv mentioned, some LED bulbs are incompatible with some dimmers. Also, almost all dimmers have a minimum load rating so if you are controlling a single bulb/fixture it's possible you may need to use a higher wattage "equivalent" bulb.
EDIT: re-reading those parameter options, I doubt these options are the issue, more than likely it's the bulb compatibility or minimum load level requirement of the switch.
The problem is he has a ZEN26 switch, not a dimmer!
Ugh, haven't finished my first cup of java, my bad. I'd try another bulb and see if it solves the issue or as already stated, contact support, it's a new device and maybe they have a new firmware available.
15v leak through???
Those are either defective, or that is a shitty design. In my OPINION.
Heard back from support already - which is quite nice! "We've seen this issue once before, and it turned out the LEDs bulbs being used were incompatible. Can you share the make and model of the bulbs you're using? Do you have a different brand to test your Zooz switches with? "
So probably the bulb - which really isn't a bulb but a ceiling fan light that just has several LED's in it. I'll have to do some more testing.
Still weird, a switch uses a relay and it supposed to have 0v, mine has 2v but a leak of 15v that is wrong.
I agree. They can blame the bulb all they want, but that does not sound right. I would guess the snubber circuit is designed for higher loads. That is why putting a different LED on it may help (if it has more resistance).
If it is the snubber circuit, there is basically ZERO you can do about it other than change the load to one that is less sensitive to the leak. Or change the switch with a different brand/model that has a different design.
Given that this is a ceiling fan light and it is built-in - can't do much with changing it out. Here is a picture of it with the switch off. Wonder if I could just put a resistor on the load?
I'm sure you could, if you can figure out the right place (and resistor size) to do it without zapping yourself. lol
Could probably wire a properly rated resistor in-line with the load wiring too... Technically. Whether that is safe or meets electrical and fire codes is another matter.
I would replace it with a GE switch. lol. They have them at Lowes usually, so can be an easy and quick test...
Zooz should make this right for you. I'd suggest working with them through their process. They'll make it right for you, even if that means a refund.
I have sent them the above picture and info as well, so we'll see what they come back with.