Man...I started playing around with updating my printer to Marlin 2.1.2 as a "fun" project where I could learn more about the FW and update processes.
A bit more complext than I hoped...my config files from 2.0.9 are too old to import/update into 2.1.2, so I'd have to pull across content from the 2.0.9 config files into the 2.1.2 versions. Started the process but there's just too much stuff that I'm not familiar enough with to make good enough guesses about.
So - move along, there's nothing to see here...going to set that aside for now and push on into getting Klipper up and running since I do have a current Klipper printer config file for the SV05 and another spare pi I can assign to that task.
I got around to cleaning up my SV05, got it all taken apart and found the filament was melted and solidified in the heatsink. Thinking I might heat it up in the oven or something to see if I can soften it enough to push it out?
I don't mind using sneakernet, but man, I'd like to get Octoprint working somehow. I don't have a Rpi, so I was trying to install Octo4a ("for Android") on an old phone, but it's not installing correctly.
My wife just got a new laptop. Maybe I should see what her old one can do since it has been tossed aside.
Also, depending on your printer FW (can't remember what printer you have) you may need to flash a new FW build that enables Host Action Commands - they are required for Octoprint. Some printers have it enabled out of the box, others not. In Marlin just a few lines need to be uncommented so they look like below, so a simple change but does require a FW recompile/flash:
Yeah, I get the corruption problem everyone mentions in the issues and discussion and I can't do the manual fix because SSH doesn't run. I think my phone is too old. I can't even update stuff from the Play Store. Android 4.4.
Early on I ran a print directly from Cura on my PC via USB cable, so I'm assuming OctoPrint on a laptop would be perfect. It takes about a year to boot up, though...
I thought the point was that you could speed up printing and using input shaping you wouldn't lose quality. Did you do two different prints at different speeds to compare?
Have any of you in the US done any filament recycling? I'm looking into it, and am awaiting responses from a few sites that may be doing it, or have info:
I've printed the Marlin test print twice, with different colour filaments, in order to figure out what my input shaping values should be.
I don't see anything in my prints to actually help figure out what values to use.
Regarding filament recycling; there's a filament manufacturer here in Canada that offers recycling, but you have to ship it to them.
One of my friends knows a teacher that received a grant for some device that lets them recycle filament for reuse at the school.
I take my cast offs to my friend and he passes it along.
I think I'm going to go with Printerior. Funny enough...I just contacted them yesterday. You have to pay for the ride along with sorting by type...even PLA from PLA+...and then they give you points to use for purchasing their filament.
Think I'll just pick up a few USPS flat rate boxes, fill them up, and send them in as I go.
As far as I can tell HW is not required (appears to be optional) - from the Marlin site:
Description
Set the Input Shaping damping factor and/or frequency (in Hertz) for axes that support it. Use M593 with no parameters to report the current settings.
It’s not always easy to attach an accelerometer to most printer boards, so Marlin doesn’t provide accelerator-based tuning. If you have that information you can use it. But the easiest way to tune Input Shaping is to print a ringing tower that goes through a range of frequencies, then examine the appearance of the ringing tower to choose the best frequencies for each axis.
