I'll look into it.
Based on what I'm reading I think I will also try increasing Z offset to .2 on my next PETG test print.
If I can't get the PEI plate cleaned up I'll just order another, and use the damaged one as a sacrificial lamb for additional PETG testing. Hopefully I can clean it off, don't like to waste things...
That's impressive that your z-offset is zero.
It's "just worked" so I haven't touched it. Perfect for my PLA prints.
I'll check with one of the people on the SV06 Facebook group.
He's printed 3 spools of PETG so far, for building a LACK enclosure.
Mine runs ok at zero but .3 seemed to be very slightly better ...but that may have been a perception error because nobody else used zero. heh
The bed on my SV06 is fixed in place. I've got a -1.990 z-offset on it.
Be interesting to see what Z offset you end up at w/PETG.
Hard to tell if different sites are just quoting info they found elsewhere but now that I look at Z Offset advice for PETG this seems common:
Quick search suggest heating it up & dry scrape.
If that didn't work, I think I'd run it through a cycle in the dishwasher (and maybe clean the dishwasher filter afterward).
Yeah, that's (heating) what I'm going to try first.
I'm going in, cover me! 
Lock & load. Ready!
BTW, my wife just bought me my Val-day present ...she just doesn't know it yet.
1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Joiner
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091Y9WSH6
Interesting...I think I'll have to "help" my wife w/her V-Day present for me. (Maybe a new PEI build sheet.)
First try at 61 degrees yielded some initial small success, but overall not much came off after that. I'm heating to 68 degrees now to see how that goes.
68 degrees didn't help, not coming off at all.
Someone posted this intereseting solution...may try this as a last resort...
PROBLEM: broke off the 3d print supports but the first layer didn't came off with it. I've tried a lot of thing and a knife was really the only thing that worked until this point.
SOLUTION: Print something on top of IT to make IT stick to IT and then remove IT.
Print about 4-layer sheet of PETG on top of the remaining sticked filament (use some ugly one as it's going to be thrown away)
Let it cool off.
Remove the 4-layer printed sheet from the PEI and enjoy the maginc.
- the sheet removes about 95% of it thought.
Does the Sovol have a magnetic bed and steel, flexible, textured pei sheet?
If the Z offset is too small, it does adhere much too well. Increasing the Z offset too much and it doesn't adhere. Using a folded sheet of paper to set the Z offset and then increase one of the smallest units you can seems to have worked for me to be the best for both adhesion and release of PET-G. I'm using a HICTOP PEI sheet which is on a metal base with a magnetic sheet to hold it to the bed.
https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Flexible-Platform-235x235mm-V2οΌEnder-3/dp/B08PFHBR2D/
That's oem on the Anker and the /r/prusa3d posts say it is a good set-up for petg with flexing the sheet aiding the release.
The Sovol SV05 comes w/a built-in magnetic bed and flexible build plate like below:
It's not PEI, not sure what it is, frankly. Works well, but not as well as the Creality PEI sheet on metal base worked (until I glued PETG on part of it).
The guy on the SV06 group prints directly on the PEI sheet.
He washes it with Dawn after each print.
That's how the Anker comes, too --except it is supposedly pei.
I usually change the first layer height in my Filament profile to add additional Z-Offset of 0.025. This usually prevents PETG from sticking too well.
Heat up the bed to 60c and then pour some isopropyl alcohol onto the bed. Then gently scrape the PETG off.
Download the Hubitat app
