Let's talk 3D printers!

I have an agreement w/the FOMO department of the universe that once I purchased my 3D printer, there would be no other printer that could be any better or that I would like more than mine. So we don't ever need to talk about any other printers any more. Just wanted to straighten that out. :wink: :rofl:

For anyone looking into Octoprint Android, I tried to install the Android app and it failed on three different phones...looks like it hasn't been updated since Sept of last year and the broken install is a known issue. There are some work-arounds that may get it to work after the install fails. PITA...I may just move on to the Docker install.

1 Like

I've had enough of them to know I definitely prefer direct-drive. Yes bowden tubes work, but the simplicity of a direct-drive is worth it.

My FLsun SR (even though it is bowden tubed) prints better than my Creality S1 Pro largely due to it not being a bed slinger, but I spend about 10x more time fiddling with the FLsun SR than I do the S1 Pro - mainly because of the extruder and tube.

My next printer requirements:

  1. Non bed-slinger
  2. Direct drive
  3. GOOD bed self leveling
  4. As fast as I can afford and still maintain decent quality

I don't really care about printing TPU, ABS, and more exotic materials, so don't really need enclosed.

Thought I would go with an Ender-5 S1, but I keep seeing iffy things about their cantilevered bed design. Maybe I'll break down and get a FLsun V400. Not sure, as it is so darn big it is off putting.

2 Likes

Are you getting good quality prints from your S1 Pro?

I put a Sprite Pro extruder on my Ender 3-V2; it's so much easier to load filament, and after installing a dual z kit, my level issues have been resolved, but the print quality is no better than what i was getting with the bowden setup.

Print quality is pretty good. I have it on a sonic pad running klipper - can't remember what it was like stock any more.

That said, I have a ton of issues with bed adhesion on the S1 Pro. To the point I think my bed temp sensor may be way off - even at 70C PLA prints pop off at random during printing. Have scrubbed the PEI a zillion times (soap, alcohol, etc).

I have a glass plate for it, but haven't got around to installing it yet.

Honestly, I know a few ppl who’ve had major reliability issues with them and they couldn’t be fixed.

1 Like

You have a distance between the sovol dryer and the printer, my current setup has a short span. Do you think the Bowden tube is necessary --or were you just being obsessive? heh

Also, those pumpkins in another pix you posted. What brand was the filament, if you recall. I'm looking for a nice copper or bronze filament.

Hehe, yes it is a good idea as it allows the extruder drive to have a consistent tension on the Filament it’s pulling.

It’s prolly not a big deal for “Bowden” extruder system, but it’s a very good idea for direct drive systems. It also means the Filament doesn’t have a chance to start absorbing moisture again.

Ps It’s known as reverse Bowden setup.

2 Likes

Made my first profit today on my printer... :wink:

Neighbor I did several prints for (multi-part drink holder & a shelf insert for the dash in his car) gave me a check for $17. I had told him not to worry about it but he's just a nice guy and would not be put off.

So I'm rich, rich! (Or will be until I spend it on a reel of PETG to experiment with.) :wink:

1 Like

Nice one! How long till you have your own print farm? :rofl:

1 Like

I'm currently printing with that cheap pla I mentioned. It is performing well --though I did have to jack the nozzle temp to 215. You'd have a little change left over.

Kingroon PLA 3D Printer Filament

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WYKYVPB

2 Likes

What do you mean...clearly I already have one! :wink:

Getting richer all the time...until I wander over to Amazon. Curses... :smiley:

1 Like

What layer height do y'all use for everyday prints? Cura defaults to 0.2, Prusa to 0.16.

0.25 mm is what I use with a 0.4mm nozzle.

1 Like

This is with only PLA so far...

.2mm w/.4mm nozzle...I thought that was just the PrusaSlicer default, IIRC, I didn't adjust it, but I guess I must have if PrusaSlicer's default is .16.

Adhesion is pretty much perfect, parts stick while printing, pop right off when they are done. I've upgraded to the Creality PEI sheet., but prints also adhered fine and came off w/just a little more work using the stock flexible bed the SOV05 came with. But having used a flexible PEI sheet I can see myself going back...

Oh - maybe I should have noted I have been printing pretty much everything at these settings in PrusaSlicer:
image

1 Like

Our buddy Tom outlines new features in Prusa 2.6

2 Likes

Cool...looking forward to playing w/the new stuff, especially nice to see the improvement in supports (=faster prints, less filament). Noice.

1 Like

On my Ender 3-V2 I was using Chuck Hellebuyck's Extra-fast 0.2 and 0.28 profiles for my 0.4mm nozzle.

These worked well when it had the bowden extruder on it, but they may be contributing to my print quality issues with my direct drive extruder.

Right now I'm just using 0.2 for the 0.4mm nozzle on my Sovol SV06.
Need to fine tune this one to get some more speed out of it and not lose too much print quality.

I've used Cura for so long that when I try PrusaSlicer I feel lost.
There are definitely some nice new features coming to PrusaSlicer, so I need to dig in an get used to it.

2 Likes

My problem with Octoprint was that I am also an amateur radio operator. I was in the middle of a print job and also using the radio. The print job halted. It also happened when I was connected to the computer with a USB cable and was using Pronterface. I was in the middle of a print job, transmitted, and the print job quit. Using a USB stick with the file on it works all the time.

1 Like

If you printed those parts in PLA, he might be back for that $17 the first hot, sunny day when the PLA softens and sags.

1 Like

As long as it doesn't get above 50c it shouldn't be an issue.