Octoprint is a bit of a resource hog in general - My poor Pi3B+ was getting hammered by it, and my printer at the time maxed out at print speeds of only 90mm/s.
After moving to Klipper FW, my Pi is basically on holidays while printing, despite managing 2 additional MCU's and CanBus.
LOL...I've already warned him that problems might happen if it gets really warm. On a hot day (90F or more) from what I see online the car could easily exceed 120F after a few hours, so some warping/sagging could definitely happen.
I am ordering some PETG to just because I'm interested in figuring out how to use it w/my SV05, so if he does have issues I will be ready to re-print. I've used nowhere near $17 in material so I'll be happy to print pretty much anything he wants. 
@dJOS - you like Sunlu PETG as well?
That should help. 
I havent tried Sunlu, but others say good things about it.
New toy in the house...may have time to set it up tomorrow! Still only have one spool, PLA+ is arriving on Monday, and may have PETG as early as tomorrow.
Noice! I'm thinking of getting one and putting my single spool dryer with my Adventurer 3.
PETG is arriving tomorrow, if it gets here soon enough then I'll have it set up and let you know how it goes.
Printed this today...very useful, organizing my clutter.
I like using PET-G. It is almost as easy to use as PLA in that it does not require an enclosure. It also doesn't have the objectionable fumes of ABS. I did download plans for an activated charcoal air filter and printed it. I run that when the printer is running. That helps. I have not printed much with ABS, but I wanted to be safe when printing with it.
Interesting. Can you show what the charcoal filter looks like on the printer?
Besides the obvious temperature increases for the bed and nozzle, do you make any other significant changes from your PLA settings when printing PET-G? Do you play with fan speed settings?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5344080
This is the one I printed.
I use SuperSlicer. It makes the changes for the filament when the type is selected. I don't have to mess with temperatures, fan speeds, etc. The thing I have to do is remember to preheat to the higher temperature if I am switching form PLA to PET-G or from PET-G back to PLA. Once that is done and enough material is run through to be sure the old filament is purged, I can let SuperSlicer handle the printing temperatures and other parameters.
Cool, I use PrusaSlicer, not sure if it does that.
I wasn't aware of SuperSlicer, going to take a look at that. Thanks for the info.
I think SuperSlicer is a fork of PrusaSlicer, so they should be similar.
It is, it’s essentially Prusa Slicer with all the advanced features enabled, plus a bunch of extra goodies.
Yes it is a fork and as Derek says plus extra toys. It does appear to be slightly behind prusa in that it's at 2.4.6 vs 2.5 for Prusa.
The version in the Fedora repository is 2.4.58.5. Sounds like the maintainer for the Fedora version needs to update the program.
What brand filament did you use for those pumpkins?
Depends.
If it is something utilitarian that people aren't going to be looking at real closely I'll use a much higher layer. 0.25 is pretty common.
If it's something that's going to be handled and people are going to be looking at up close up I'll go as low as 0.1.
It gets way above 50c in the car around here during the summer. have you had a few petg parts soften on me in the car.
Really need ABS or PC for car parts.
I definitely do. PETG in general doesn't like to be squished to the bed as much as PLA. So sometimes I have to raise the z offset a little bit when printing with PETG.
Everything is hotter/cooler in Texas. 
Good to know, thanks.
This is also good to know...do not print something w/screw threads in horizontal orientation leaving the threads suspended in mid-air w/no support...DOH. This is why I should not start a new print job after 11 pm...
Luckily (amazingly) came out OK and after a littlt trimming is usable, screws right in to the other piece:
Printing that with supports enabled would work although you would need to do a bit of work to remove the supports and clean up the threads.
Download the Hubitat app
