I would contact "New One". They show the correct frequency and even specifically mention Hubitat. There line on compatibility makes me chuckle:
SmartThings, Hubitat, Vera, Wink and so on.
1 Like
I had never heard of this brand before. This plug looks extremely similar to the Zooz Zen04, Minoston MP31ZD, and Eva LogicZW39M plugs, and is probably a rebrand of those. Or they share a common manufacturer. Pretty sure those all work fine with Hubitat.
Are you sure that you have a Z-wave plug? New One show an identical looking Wifi plug on their site. Eva Logic also sells this plug in Wifi just like New One does.
This is a pic of the plug. It has the Z Wave logo. I have ordered another plug. If that one works, this one gets returned.
1 Like
I have no reason to believe it is not. The plug's slightly out of focus picture is in a different reply, but it has an FCC id, which makes me think it is supposed to be a US plug.
1 Like
I know you just started but can you post your z-wave details page in it's entirety? (use windows snip)
1 Like
Is this the first Z-wave device you have tried to add, or have you successfully added Z-wave before?
I mentioned in my original post that I had added the First Alert Z-Wave smoke/co detector, and I can still see messages from it, so i believe that the radio in the hub is fine.
I don't use windows to talk to the hub, I use Chrome on my phone. I don't think that matters, I get my laptop out once in a blue moon, like I did the other day to burn a raspian image. Boy have they made that crap easy. I am trying to make a raspberry pi emulate a USB keyboard. But that is neither here nor there.
This is a screenshot of the relevant parts of my hub.
<< removed by admin as it included personal hub details >>
@user6252 You should delete that image. It has private things about your hub on it.
I think @rlithgow1 was asking for your Z-wave details. (Settings tab, Z-wave Details)
If you cannot upload screenshots, it is likely because you haven't joined the Owner group, which you can do it at the following link. Hubitat
You might also take the opportunity to change your username so it is more individualized:
3 Likes
You're actually better off using a pc browser to work on things. That said I want your settings))z-wave details page
1 Like
Rule 1: try to exclude it. If the hub says something has been excluded, then try to add it again.
Just a quick status note. A different brand plug came in that looked remarkably similar and the pamphlet was printed in the same almost unreadable light brown ink, although this plug had some energy monitor stuff i wanted to play with.
I was able to add it with minimal fumbling. I'm going to try another reset on the first plug, then I'm giving up and returning it
1 Like
Dooh! Push the button on the side of the dimmer five times. The LED blinks brightly. You think you are in programming mode. You are not. Unplug it. Factory reset it. Careful. Two pushes and hold the third. If you push it too many times before you hold the button it does not really reset although the lights blink. Now push the button three times. The blue LED barely blinks. I had to do this in a darkened room to see the blinking at all. Then you can add it to your network.
Yes, I know I should have followed the instructions exactly...but...three clicks for programming mode, five clicks for some undocumented mode is not good human factors. I just clicked until I saw the light blink. Sigh. Sorry to bother everyone with a false alarm. BTW, the energy reporting plug programmed just fine with my click-until-it-blinks method.
3 Likes
Glad you got it figured out. Sometimes manufacturers over complicate things.
1 Like
A dimmer plug with energy reporting. Hmmm.
I've never had a dimmer plug.
Sounds interesting.
Lutron makes one that's also a repeater. Good for dumb bulb table lamps. I use smart bulbs with Picos though.
I only have a couple of dimmers, and they are built in. The snappy noise of the relays clicking is comforting to me. 
I could see myself getting into the dimmer scene more though.
That would drive me nuts. Caseta=silent on dimmers or switches.
I got three of these dimmable plugs delivered today from Amazon. They are all acting a little flakey. I'm using them to control lamps that all have new Philips 60W Ultra Definition dimmable LED bulbs.
No problems adding them to HE and they are visible to Apple Home on my iPhone via the Integration package. I want to control them from Apple Home. It seems like they only respond to about 70% of the commands from Home when doing anything that changes the dim level, including turning the lamp on by moving the slider up to make the lamp brighter than it was before it was last turned off. Off command always works,
Hubitat chose the "Generic Z-Wave Plus Dimmer" driver for the devices. All show firmware version 1.0 and hardware version 1.
Any ideas? I haven't had time to do any serious testing/debugging, but it does look like HE is sending the commands correctly. It also looks like Home and HE are staying in sync,, i.e., the dimming levels match, even if the actual lamp didn't reflect the dim level change.
The device works well when controlling it from the HE device page. I think the problem is between HE and Apple Homekit. Here's one problem scenario...
- The lamp is on and at 50% brightness. Both HE and AH show this.
- Turn off the lamp from HE.
- Lamp turns off. HE and AH reflect this.
- Turn the lamp on from HE.
- Lamp turns on at 50% brightness. HE reflects this. AH shows the lamp is on at 100%.
- Do a "Set Level" from HE to 20% brightness.
- Lamp dims to 20%. HE and AH both reflect this.
- Turn lamp off from HE.
- Lamp is off. HE and AH both reflect this.
- Turn lamp on from HE.
- Lamp turns on to 20%. HE reflects this. AH again shows the lamp is on at 100%.
Should I report this as a Homekit Integration App bug? Am I misunderstanding how HE/AH work together?
