The breakdown seems clear enough, but it seems too focus on ghosts. I thought you had said you didn't see any ghosts? Sorry this is just bordering on territory that I'm unfamiliar with. What would my objective be to set this up?
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Just in case any get created while unpairing/re-pairing. The major focus really is on pairing with no security using a secondary controller.
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Agree with what @aaiyar said.. try that first. Also suggest you reach out to the folks at Zooz or Inovelli and see if they might be able to give a bit of a discount if you are buying 11 switches at once... You'll get more mileage out of the newer switches in the long run. I ended up doing this on a bunch of old Aeotec relays a few years ago just when I was starting out with HE.
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Have you tried completely disabling the Z-wave Poller? You might be surprised at just how much better your mesh behaves without all of that excess traffic.
The C-5 hub would help with the S0 security paired devices, but will not help at all with the Z-wave polling. I think sticking with the C-7, and using a separate z-wave stick to pair the S0 devices without security, makes the most sense.
Or, rip out all of the Z-wave and replace it with reliable Lutron Caseta! 
Lutron just works, every time.
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Inovelli does have a 10pk on their website
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I will defer to the group and say that they know what they are talking about here. Disable the poller and remove the polling app. Then remove and rejoin the zwave devices without security. Then decide what devices have to be polled and how often. Make several rules if need be to poll different devices at whatever frequency you have deemed necessary and perhaps based on motion nearby certain devices. Most importantly, let us know how it's going!
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@erktrek - I disabled it and will see what happens. I also received an S2 stick when I got the hub but didn't know I needed it until you all helped me understand.
@ogiewon - Does Lutron have a non neutral option?
@thebearmay - Thank you!
@Ken_Fraleigh - I will do!
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Most Lutron Caseta “dimmers” are non-neutral. Their “switches” typically require a neutral, but there is one higher-cost “switch” that does not require a neutral. The fan controller requires a neutral.
In all cases, to use Lutron Caseta with Hubitat, you’ll also need the Caseta SmartBridge Pro ( the PRO is a requirement!) Once you have the SmartBridge Pro connected to Hubitat, you can also use Lutron Pico Remotes as button controllers in Hubitat. They work amazingly well, and have a 10 year battery.
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If you use Rule Manager instead of Poller app, you will have a lot more flexibility in polling interval. When I had non-plus, I would poll some devices every 5 minutes but poll others like my switches for exterior lights every 20 minutes.
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That lady is expensive! Hmmm.
So I'm still considering Red Series Dimmer Switch as well. I guess I'm just torn if I want to make that investment. Again it's just a hard pill to swallow when I really had no issues with Smart Things except I got tired of them being stagnant.
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Can I urge you to hold off on new purchases until you have re-paired all the S0 paired devices (except locks/garage doors)? And turned z-wave polling off? Let's see how much that improves matters before the next step?
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Absolutely. I'll re-pair the S0 devices tomorrow. And yes I turned off polling.
Thanks!
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If matters improve, the first thing to try is @stephen_nutt’s suggestion of selective polling using Rule Machine.
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Yes, unfortunately the price of the SmartBridge Pro has increased since the start of the pandemic. It used to be readily available for ~$88 from EnergyAvenue.com, and they also had very good prices on switches, dimmers, pico remotes, claro wall plates, etc...
Lutron hardware is not inexpensive, but it works so reliably that I feel it is best investment I have made in home automation equipment. It is also nice never having to re-pair these devices to be able to use them with another home automation controller. Just like the Philips Hue bridge, Lutron Caseta works with just about every other home automation platform. You can even use it concurrently with multiple platforms like Amazon Alexa, Google Home, Apple HomeKit, Logitech Harmony Hub, Hubitat, Node-RED, Home Assistant, SmartThings, Ring, Sonos, Ecobee, IFTTT, etc...
Thus, you're investing in a complete home lighting solution, not just switches and dimmers. And no Z-Wave headaches ever again! 
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I wouldn't say "never" - Lutron still has some limitations you should be aware of like 30ft from smart bridge and an additional 30ft from a range extender with only one range extender per installation. The good news is usually the stated limits are very conservative - in practice you can easily get 40-50 ft in range sometimes even further.
The only thing that becomes a pain is in the rare instance you have a problem it's harder to solve due to the above limitations.
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This is so true. I knew one of the engineers that designed the first generation Wink hub. When they were testing the Caseta radio in it, it was picking up a Pico remote from >100 feet down the road from the testing facility.
I will also add - Lutron's phone is tech support was, and remains, SUPERB!
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Speaking of range. My landscape lights that are in my garage and my garage door controller, I seem to only seem to work when my garage door is open. It's like when the metal door is closed the wave signal is too weak. Is it possible that the Hubitat doesn't have the same range or strength as Smart Things? I have the hubitat hub in the same location I used to have my Smart Things. It's just a bummer I can't open my garage door or turn on those lights when the door is closed. I have an exterior outlet that's ZW to try and expand the signal as much as possible but I can't think of anything else I can do.
Yes. You can either put a repeater between the garage and your house, or you can get Ethernet into the garage and put another hub there, use hub mesh or Hub Connect to expose your devices to your main hub. Search the forums, there are many examples of different ways that people talk to devices in a remote building.
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Yes.
When I switched from SmartThings to Hubitat a couple of years ago, I discovered that Hubitat’s z-wave range was shorter than SmartThings. I was told to add more repeaters, including a repeater in the same room as the hub. I added a repeater about 10’ from my hub and now all is well.
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Yeah to second what @672southmain said - get a repeater or second hub to the garage - if it is wired or maybe use a set of Powerline adapters.
Another thought is replace a garage light switch with a smart switch then it should repeat as well.
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