Hello. No I have never tried the 3 or 4gang with Tuya Convert so definitely worth trying it. They are actually listed on the Tasmota repository but I believe someone here posted about the chip being different. If I was you i'd just try and convert it and see if it works, you can easily pop it back in the box and return it if you wanted as the packaging allows it.
Ah thanks. I've tried a while back, and Tuya-Convert doesn't work. I believe there is an open issue that many are attaching to:
Just wanted to see if anyone here tried serial flashing.
Ah gotcha yeah I couldn't remember if that was you or not. True you could try a serial flash if you can pull it apart without breaking it. That might be how they flashed it here and here. Definitely let us know if you do manage that although I was worried it has a different chip inside that is not flash-able.
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@Hongkey If you do take it apart and you need help identifying the correct pins and the chip, take high-res photos and post a thread about it and @ me.
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Thanks. I will have a go. Will need to order a couple of stuff to get going. Here is a shot of the Tuya chip (TYWE3s) in the 4-gang DETA (6904HA)
[Edit]
FYI. Here is a shot of the DETA 2-GPO. Same chip, but older serial number. No problems with Tuya-Convert. So likely just the FW.
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That was an easy one, you have everything marked out for you. It is not the easiest one to solder however, I'd get pogo pins (P125-B is a good choice) and something to hold them in place, it would make it much easier. I use them with weighted rods that keep them in place. Not sure where and how to buy that outside of China, I bought mine on Taobao. If you have a 3D printer you could do something like this:
Not sure which pogo pins are the right one for that one though.This one use P75's.
The Reset pin (for connecting to ground) is the pin opposite TXD.
Yes, it is just a firmware problem.
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That's good news then if I ever need a 3 or 4gang ill get them. Fyi @mike
Thank you. I'm going to order P74-T2. I found them from a ebay seller in Australia.
Do you happened to have a photo of what you do to hold them down with a rod please? I don't have a printer, and was thinking of using a couples sheets of plastic to hold them in layers and weigh that down
P75-T2 I assume? Those should work, I do it this way:
The T2 may be hard to get to stay put, which is why the very pointy models can be easier to use.
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This is awesome!! OK I mis-understood that you were recommending P75. Now that I've seen your setup, I'm going to have to stay up and do some shopping research to do it properly! 
For my setup it's P125, for 3D printed solutions it is usually P75. Really pointy ones are what usually work best, I have a couple of different ones when I need something special to fit. In my drawers I think I have all models there is of P125, but most are not used.
@Hongkey If you want something like my setup you can search for "LED BDM acrylic ECU" in your preferred online store for electronics. It should yield some similar results.
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Looking for advice on buying a hose tap timer that will work with Hubitat. Any suggestions?
The other threads suggested model# 27087 Orbit Iris hose timer but it's not available locally.
It's also a discontinued product, used ones pop up occasionally on ebay. I didn't get one as (1) postage was pretty expensive and (2) the US fittings are different to ours and adapters will push the cost up even further unless you are able to make your own.
I'm currently playing with Orbit's wifi hub version from Bunnings but this requires getting hands dirty with MQTT and node red and probably some extra coding, until someone comes up with a native integration (even then the API is cloud based, not local).
Probably thats the last option, to go with Orbit b-hyve wifi kit. I will continue searching Google to find an alternative option.
I am trying to avoid having another app for automation. Already stuck with Grid Connect for Arlec Heaters as there doesnt seem to be any Tasmota firmware for it.
Let us know. I haven't found anything at that price that's battery and/or zigbee based with HE support.
Do the heaters actually have an esp8266 chip or is it on of the tuya chips?
If you change your water tap fitting then you could install something like this. You will need power as well though.
you could use a weatherproof solar USB Power bank if it’s going outside. 
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@markus Thank you! I've ordered. Will report back in about 2 months when it arrives. 
BTW, I ended up spending heaps of time researching into ECU programming stuff. I do stuff on my evo, but I didn't know there was another world for even my Bosch ECU. Thanks again.
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Yeah, I'm happy I don't need to have that kind of patience, I'm annoyed when it takes more than 3 days, preferably maximum 1.
Yes, that is a world by itself, and so much stuff to get 
Btw, as you can see in my photos, I have 8 pogo pins I can connect, usually not needed, but I've needed up to 7 once. Needed to reset and pull low multiple pins at the same time to get into programming mode (there was a secondary MCU on the same board causing issues). This is not normal, and probably not something you need. Just wanted to mention it.
