That's a shame, I am quite happy with mine, only two issues I have are size and when I restart my router and they don't rejoin the network. Other than that I am very happy with them and the Community drivers.
Simon
I have had great success with 20 odd Aeotec Nano Dimmers, Nano Switches and Dual Nano Switches around the house. What sort of problems did you have with them?
Agreed, my house is full of Aeotec nano switches and dimmers behind Clipsal Iconic wall plates/switches and they look great and work well.
The ones I have all paired as "Device" and as such were NOT recognized.
Power appears to be displayed as mWatts but otherwise seems correct.
tagging @mike.maxwell - because it'd be great if, when you have a spare moment you're able to add this Zigbee device
ID: 2A3B
Manufacturer: Sercomm Corp.
Product Name:
Model Number: SZ-ESW01-AU
deviceTypeId: 14
more...
manufacturer : Sercomm Corp.
idAsInt : 1
inClusters : 0000,0001,0003,0004,0005,0006,0B04,0B05,0702
endpointId : 01
profileId : 0104
application : 12
outClusters : 0003,000A,0B05,0019
initialized : true
model : SZ-ESW01-AU
stage : 4
manufacturer :
idAsInt : 2
inClusters : 0000,0001,0003
endpointId : 02
profileId : 0104
application :
outClusters : 0003,0006
initialized : true
model :
stage : 4
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+1 it would be great if this device could report in Watts vs mWatts
Have you tried this with the generic zigbee outlet driver?
Be sure to click configure after changing drivers
Thanks Mike. Yeah, that works and reports power as watts
Yet again the obvious was over looked !
But When my toaster was connected to the plug, the power reporting doesn't seem to update as expected. Logs showed this..
dev:32112021-02-24 09:19:17.999 am infoTelstra Outlet #4 (Spare) power is 90299W
dev:32112021-02-24 09:18:17.461 am infoTelstra Outlet #4 (Spare) power is 34W
dev:32112021-02-24 09:18:15.702 am infoTelstra Outlet #4 (Spare) was turned on [digital]
dev:32112021-02-24 09:17:17.303 am infoTelstra Outlet #4 (Spare) power is 0W
It's off by 10, 903 watts seems about right no?
Yep Mike, I think you're right. It's a 950w toaster.
I think I was mislead by the intermediate reporting that came through..
Thanks.
Hey mate, have you had any luck integrating the temp controls?
hey mate, where did you get that one from please? I don't seem to be able to find any zigbee/Zwave energy monitoring plug other than the Aeotec one which is just a bit too expensive.
Ebay has some
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Yep, ebay.
I'm not the OP but I recently built 2 houses and installed 75 nano dimmers and 25 nano dual switches from Aeotec. I'm not happy with them either:
- Even though we used momentary mechs, the modules always detected the mechs as 2-state rockers. A real pain the neck for the electrician and everyone else during the build not being able to turn lights on and off reliably. I know there is a procedure for button detection, but can you imagine an electrician walking around to every single switch and doing the procedure every time the circuit is flipped? It would easily add a week to the install.
- The default 3 second brightness ramp-up when you turn on the switch is also problematic during the build, as our downlights don't turn on until about 25-50% brightness so for 1 or 2 seconds you get no light. Everyone assumes the button press didn't work. A massive PITA for electrician and tradies.
- You can't get instant on/off and still be able to set a brightness below 100%. The minimum brightness ramp-up is 1 second. Everyone expects lights to be instant on/off and a 1 second delay is super annoying and feels broken to everyone that uses it. Yes you can disable the ramp-up but then you can't set a brightness below 100%.
- It's very difficult to find the right value for minimum brightness, as it depends on the load/number of lights, and the modules don't treat the minimum brightness linearly. For example, if you experiment with brightness values and find the min brightness that turns on the lights, say 27, and then set the min brightness to 27, the light will not turn on. You need a value of around 40, because the way the module calculates the power isn't linear. If I set min brightness value to 10, then I need around 30 to turn on the light. If I set min brightness to 27, I need around 40 to turn on the light. So the only way to find a min brightness setting that works is to do around 20 trial and error experiments to find a value that works. And it's different for each load, so I need to do that 75 times for each circuit in the two houses. Here's a boring video I made to demonstrate the problem to Aeotec support: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZGXMLRf6NU
- Power outages can cause all or some of the settings to be lost, including button mech type and min brightness. Some of our lights are flickering since the last power outage so I suspect it has lost and incorrectly detected the leading/trailing-edge dimming setting as well. It doesn't always lose the settings, so I'm not sure if the length of outage has an effect.
- Unbelievably, we've had 3 cases of cross-talk between the modules out of the box, and even after resets. Turning on one turns on another. It's more likely to happen the closer the modules are. I really feel sorry for my electrician who wasted a lot of time trying to figure this out.
- Despite what the Aeotec website says, the dimmers can not power all non-dimmable LED lights. Maybe the technical documentation makes this clear, but at the time, 2 years ago, the marketing fluff on the website strongly suggested this was supported.
- If you set parameters through a secondary controller, there is a ~20% chance that the dimmers will stop responding to Z-Wave commands after a few hours and require a reset. I had to spend so much time setting parameters that I bought the Aeotec Z-Wave usb stick to speed this up, and scripted the set commands. Spent a lot of time with Aeotec support checking things like group memberships but could not get to the bottom of it. Advice was to return the devices, but the cost of an electrician to rewire 75 switches was not practical. This was with SmartThings hub. Hats off to Hubitat for providing the Preference Manager app, so setting config through secondary controller not really needed any more.
Well this really turned into a rant. I have other Aeotec devices and I'm pretty grumpy about them as well. I know that 99% of people love these nano modules, so not sure if these problems are a reflection of my personality or I somehow received a bad batch of these expensive devices.
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Awesome, thanks heaps guys. I've just ordered some. Cheers.
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Another option is the smart plug from Cygnett. Looks like Domayne has them on sale here. Harvey Norman also has them on sale (yes, same company, I know). Myer also seem to have a sale on the Cygnett gear too. Pretty decent prices for local bricks and mortar stores.
@psdillon Those last 4 points sound like genuine faults that should have resulted in returns. I haven't experienced anything like that, and I've had the power on and off frequently getting things installed.
The first 4 points I can relate with. I've had to tackle the same issues configuring mine, although configuration is a lot easier in Hubitat than the interface you showed in the video. The question is, does Fibaro handle the first 4 points any better?
which ones do you have ?
HS110's, so the energy monitoring ones typically sold at places like jb, the good guys, etc. Looks like the also have a slimmer version now as well.
Thanks mate. I had a look at those last year and emailed them re compatibility/integration & I was told that they don't integrate with other platforms so I didn't buy any.
