they turn off on the device page - power still running through them.
I have it setup to turn my 3d printers off. I also have hue lights in their enclosures. So when I say turn on - the lights turn on and machine turns on. When i say turn off - lights turn off cause the device is off on the device page... but the physical printer still has power. If i manual turn the power on and off that works... but kinda defeats the purpose.
Yep !
Sounds like a communication issue.
Can you locate 1 of the 3, nearer to your Hubitat hub, remove then re-pair it and test it ?
What Device driver are you using ?
Mine are using “generic Zigbee Outlet”
If anyone has a Mitsubishi A/C that includes a wi-fi adaptor to provide access via their app, I have developed some drivers to make these available in HE. At the moment it still goes out to the cloud, but I am looking at including local control sometime soon.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/mitsubishi-split-system-wi-fi-adaptor_p0085526
Will this work with your driver? I have a Mitsubishi a/c that is not yet part of sky-net. Hmmmm.
From what I can see at a glance I would say yes probably not at the moment. It looks like it is a different produce to what I have for my ducted system, looks like an Intesis wi-fi module that wants to make use of TCP connections locally, which is not what I have been working with or towards.
Based on some of the documentation on the Bunnings page it looks like the adaptor is their cloud-based version, but still not the same as the one I currently use and have developed for. This is exactly the reason I developed the drivers the way I did, allowing me to potentially include this under the same driver if no-one else had already. In this case there does appear to be a driver. This may interest you if still want to pursue the IntesisHome adaptor:
Was considering that but can it be easily integrated into Hubitat to use the rules engine, say to turn on as I leave the office etc?
Anyone have any recommendations on a 3 gang zigbee light switch? Just had one of the glass faceplates fall off my NUE switch and shatter everywhere. Not real keen on another one of them since they're all starting to come apart.
I'd offer a replacement one I have in a draw, but can't imagine you want to go down that path again...
My makegood one has worked well. But there was another report in this thread of someone else saying theirs flickered. Not sure if that was only the dimmer for them, maybe not sure.. But my single gang one works well for me. And Aus approved with no neutral required. They make a 3 gang. How sure can I be that they are good, well the other report in here makes me question to suggest them. I have a single and double hang to still be installed that I haven't got round to.
Yeah i think i might move away from them, thanks for the offer though.
That would have been me. I had that happen to me on two 1-gang switches and one 4-gang switch. I returned the lot and bought Ikuu ones instead.
Several of my Nue switches/GPO's have failed - I wouldn't touch them again. Changed to the Mercator Ikuu products.
So do the Mercator Ikuu light switches need neutral? Their website and none of the sellers really gave much info that I could see.
nope
What’s been the experience with the Clipsal Iconic Zigbee devices? Any good?
The whole range Is frightfully expensive!
$117 for a door/Window contact sensor
$135 for a motion sensor!
Further to what @sanewton72 said, yes, neither Ikuu dimmers or wall switches require neutrals, but this comes with a price that should be understood. They will always switch a little slower than a neutral-attached device. Also, they energise themselves by sending small amounts of current through the load. This is not a problem with incandescent bulbs, or many LEDs, but I have several devices (an Arlec/Verve LED Oyster light and some older LED bulbs) that will regularly flash when the switch is off.
What I suspect is happening is that the control circuit in the light is charging a capacitor from the leakage current until it hits a particular voltage level, and then trying to start the bulb. There is enough energy for a quick flash, and then the voltages collapse and the cycle starts all over again. This flashing is generally between 1-3 second intervals.
There is no fix for this problem other than using a different device.
Note that this is not an issue with the Ikuu devices since Aeotec nano dimmers do exactly the same thing with these devices.
Looks like that needs a neutral to work, and also has the hard-wired control link protocol built in as well. Based on the price, I suspect that Clipsal are taking the piss here. A normal 4 bedroom house might have 20 GPOs or more, as well as 10 assorted light switches, so over $5000 without any sensors at all. The Ikuu stuff would be well under half that.
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