Every computer on a network be it internet, home lan, wifi has a IP address. The computer get that IP address one of 2 ways. Either you set it on the device, or they talk to a DHCP server(can be built into router). A DHCP reservation is when you tell a DHCP server this ip address is reserved to this device. So providing a DHCP reservation would be when you go into your router and tell it's DHCP server that x device gets x.x.x.x ip address.
ALSO, I know this thread is super long, and I want to give one huge shoutout to EVERYONE for chiming in and helping. Not only me, but hopefully it provides a roadmap for anyone else wanting to implement it.
Are you suggesting that I go in and tell the DHCP server each Wiz bulbs current IP address to lock them in then?
It may help.
The reason is when a device gets a IP Address is assigned a lease time. Like 6 or 12 hours or something like that. When that time is up it is possible the router will give it a new IP Address. That can cause little communication hiccups if you happen to try to connect to the device and not get the update Ip address. If you force it to always give the same ip then that will never happen.
Sounds good. Will do. Thanks!
One last thing I will point out because of post above about lumens.
Be careful about putting to much merit in that. There really isn't anything regulating how that number is derived. So just because one bulb or lamp says it produces 1500 lumens may not mean it is brighter then something rated at 1200 most of the time or even for particular color temps.
The wiz bulbs are cheap and it is why I have 6 of them myself. Most of them are the 60 Watt equivalent, and one 75 watt equivalent. They are ok but their high lumen number clearly prefer certain Color temps and have nothing to do with color brightness. If i remember right as well their CRI is alright but not great.
I don't really have any alternatives but just a word of caution about those comparisons.
You're spot on on that. There is definite variation from brand to brand, and from color temp to color temp within the same bulb with luminance. But these 1600 Wiz ones were brighter than any other RGBW I've had in the house (which were all 800 lumen bulbs). I certainly would not bet a dime that the A21 ACTUALLY puts out 1600, I'm just meaning I want the greatest number of lumens I can get, and with (at the time) nobody else offering a 1600 lumen option, she was the brightest to get in the wifi RGBW world. Even just my standard Feit daylight 1600 lumen bulbs are noticeably brighter, but that was a tradeoff I was willing to pay to have RGBW and be able to dial things back in terms of both color temp AND luminance for circadian rhythm purposes. As many issues as Wiz has posed, she's still been worth the low cost, but there are definitely better options out there.
Hue for one, but I found the A-21 Hue color bulbs on sale at Lowe’s around a year ago when the local Lowe’s was trimming down their Hue selection. I definitely wouldn’t recommend paying the current price of $65 a piece. Not a knock on the bulbs, just the price.
Oh for sure. But even a sale price of $50 each is just not even in the same conversation as $17 each, especially when considering it's a whole new architecture, AND another $40 hub, etc. Better quality, I'm sure. But I don't see it being a better value. I currently have 14 bulbs in my condo, and 8 other bulbs are still dumb that could in theory but upgraded to RGBW but I haven't even justified the Wiz cost to do those ones, much less another $750+ to swap out to Hue
IT WORKS!!!!! FLAWLESSLY
Huge shout out to @mavrrick58 @jtp10181 @bill.d for their input and patience, because it is now working exactly as I had envisioned.
I don't remember which of you contributed which bullet point, but for anyone else wanting to use this setup: A) these guys know their stuff, B) here are the key points:
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I'm on a Hubitat C8 running version 2.3.5.118, with Zooz Zen72 switches powering both some dumb LEDs and a whole bunch of Wiz A19 and A21 RGBWs.
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In the Hubitat I am using 3 apps for this. 1) the built-in Wiz Integration app, 2) Groups and Scenes, and 3) Basic Button Controllers (not to be confused with Button Controllers, that may work? but this is how I got it to work)
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I did not have to change or do anything in my Wiz iOS app at all
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I don't know if it affected anything per se, but I did end up removing every trace of Wiz from my Alexa before beginning my last (successful) attempt at getting it all to work.
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I also don't know if this was required or not, but I did end up reserving specific IP addresses for each and every Wiz bulb (and the C8 hub) in my router, and made a little spreadsheet that made keeping track of them super easy.
Big thanks to @mavrrick58 and @jtp10181 for these instructions to get it to work:
- Run the Z-wave inclusion to add the switch to Hubitat. Make sure the switch is on and at 100% dim level before doing anything.
- Add @jtp10181 's Zooz ZEN Dimmer Advanced driver to Hubitat
- After solid input from @mavrrick58 and lots of messing around, these are the settings I have set in the switch that finally got it to work correctly. Everything can stay as default except:
- Change Behavior After Power Failure to "Forced to On"
- Change Ramp Rate to Full ON to "Instant On/Off"
- Change Ramp Rate to Full OFF to "Instant On/Off"
- Change Scene Control Events to "Enabled"
- Change Smart Bulb Mode - Load Control to "Disable Paddle and Z-Wave Control"
- Not sure if this was consequential or not, but make sure Brightness Correction is off
- Click Save Preferences before going to the next step
In the Device Information section of that same page, give the device a name and label, in the drop-down menu make sure to select Zooz ZEN Dimmer Advanced as the Type, assign it to a Room and click Save Device
I then used the Advanced Device Details at the bottom of the page to double check all the parameters were correct, which is redundant if done correctly the first time, but to be sure the data section should read "configVals: [1:0, 2:0, 3:0, 5:0, 7:15, 8:1, 9:0, 10:1, 11:99, 12:0, 13:1, 15:2, 16:5, 18:0, 19:0, 20:0, 21:0, 22:20, 23:1, 24:1, 25:0, 26:0, 27:0, 28:255, 29:255, 30:5]"
With the switch now set up, go back to Apps and setup the Groups (if needed. I have a couple rooms with multiple bulbs in a fixture that needed a Group assignment, but also "Rooms" in my house where its just one Wiz bulb that won't need a Group, but still get integrated later.)
Apps/Groups and Scenes
- Click Create New Group
- Pick a Group name, and with the Wiz Integration built-in app operating the Wiz bulbs will automatically display in the HE system. Select all the Wiz bulbs you want to add into the group.
- Make sure Enable On/Off Optimization is off
Then make your Button Controllers
- Click Basic Button Controllers in the apps section and Create New
- Click Select Button Device and select the switch that you want to control a particular Group or bulb
- Click the + next to "Add Button Here"
- In the drop-down menu, Button 1 will be your Up paddle and Button 2 will be your down paddle. So check Button 1 to begin with.
- For Button 1 in the table, under the column heading "Pushed" click Create Basic Button Rule, select "Turn On" from the drop-down, then in "Select switches to turn on" select just the bulb Group you just previously made (it is here that it is helpful to make very obvious names for your room or groups or bulbs or switches instead of just relying on "Family Room" for everything in the family room. Name it "Family Room Bulb Group" or something obvious, makes it easier when selecting options like right now)
- Click Update then click Done
Then repeat this same process, but this time you'll add everything for Button 2, and the "Turn Off" command in the drop-down menu will be used instead.
Repeat the "Groups and Scenes" for each group you want to control, then repeat the Basic Button Controllers process for each Zooz switch you want to do this smart control of Wiz bulbs with. If you are using a Zooz switch for just a single bulb and not a group of bulbs, you can skip the Group creation section, then in the "Select switches to turn on" section you would instead just select the specific Wiz bulb from the drop-down as opposed to the bulb group from before.
As an aside to all this, there are probably other ways to do this, other Apps that could also result in the same sort of thing, but this is what worked for me. There is hardly any delay. And the absolute best part is that now in the morning when I get up and turn on the light switch, the Wiz bulbs dont sit there and think of what settings to activate, and then inevitably pout and just resort to the last light settings from the night before, thus requiring a re-enabling of the Rhythm in the Wiz iOS app to get them back on track, they just know exactly where they are, and that's exactly what they turn on to.
I know these steps are found elsewhere, and I'm not elucidating some grand new insight. But it was a big of a struggle for me to get these to work this way with a lot of trial and error and tons of help from @mavrrick58 and @jtp10181 in particular, but hopefully consolidating all these steps into one place helps anyone else avoid any slipups or confusion or anything.
Gonna let these switches marinate for awhile, then dive into figuring out the double- and triple-tap button commands to do some whole-home lighting stuff or maybe something else, but it's a victory for now!
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@mavrrick58 Just to make sure I understand you correctly. Correct me if I'm wrong. A Zen72 can do and be used for anything that a Zen71 could. 2 Zen72's in a 3-way setup is OK to do in Smart Bulb mode as long as the dimming happens via the Wiz app/Hubitat and not through the power itself (and if I later had dumb LEDs swapped in instead of smart LEDs, it could still be used but then it would require setting up a virtual 3-way instead). In a separate 3-way arrangement where there will be no dimming and no smart bulbs it would be sufficient to only buy/incorporate one Zooz switch as long as its a Zen76, which then could be used with a dumb switch.
That all sound correct? I'm placing another order at thesmartesthouse for some other items and I figure I might as well buy what I need, if anything, for the 3-way setups in my house at the same time. I have two 3-way circuits in my house. One controls a single Wiz bulb (that I'm fine with only dimming through Alexa or the Wiz app if thats what's necessary) and the other controls a dumb LED light fixture that will neither be dimmed ever or have smart bulbs in it. I currently have two Zen72's available to install and use (which I was thinking would be the 3-way with the Wiz bulb) and then just buy a Zen76 to use in conjunction with the existing dumb switch.
You want to review the Zooz Switch Primer on this post https://community.hubitat.com/t/he-c-8-zooz-zen72-wiz-issues-and-need-big-help/114866/17?u=mavrrick58
Zen71 and Zen72 are the perfered switches for Virtual 3-ways. That means neither of them actually control the load.
Zen 71 and Zen72's can be used in 3 way but are not prefered as they require rewiring the 3 pole swich with the Zen 71/72 switch. Zen76 and Zen77 are drop in replacements so you don't have to rewire the other side.
You may also want to check the min and max loads to make sure you are working within those limits as they are slightly different between the switches.
Technically the all of those swtiches support Smartbulb mode the complication really comes with you start to talk about 3 way.
@mavrrick58 Yeah I've had it open and am trying to understand it. Lol. On a different page I just noticed the minimum wattage for the Zen72. Didn't know that was a thing. The 3-way setup I currently have is just an 800 lumen Wiz bulb (max 11.5W) so it doesn't even meet the 15-20W minimum Zooz states for the Zen72. So, gonna have to come up with a different plan then. At least the dumb LED ceiling fixture is 20W.
I think the Zen76 + Existing dumb switch is clearly the best option for the non-dimming/non-smart bulb light fixture circuit. And for the other one with the 11.5W Wiz bulb......I mean I guess the "Dimming vs. Non-dimming" topic on that Zooz switch chart doesn't really matter for me since the only dimming I would ever do would be done through the Wiz wi-fi protocol anyway and not through a change in energy delivered by the switch. I guess maybe I could see if thesmartesthouse would let me exchange one of my Zen72's for a 76, then use a 76 + existing dumb switch in the one circuit with the ceiling fixture, and buy a matching simple on/off paddle dumb switch (cheaper than a second Zooz at least) to use on the other end of the Zen72 on the circuit with the Wiz bulb. Oh but wait I can't use the 72 with the single Wiz bulb because of minimum wattage. Arrgh. Can't use a Zen77 in it's place because they're for single pole when the light is a smart bulb. So I guess the 71 looks like the best option, but it doesn't show anywhere explicitly a minimum load. I'm gonna email Zooz and double check. I'm also assuming that since the 71 is not a "dimmer switch" I'll still be able to dim a Wiz bulb through some sort of Hubitat command, though. Yeah?
Or maybe I can find wiring insructions on how to just negate the 3-way aspect of the second switch box entirely, essentially converting the circuit to a simple single pole, and install a Zen34 remote in its place? But then there's the annoyance of battery issues, and who knows if that wiring is even possible. Blah. Depending on what they say maybe the simplest solution is just to swap out the lighting fixture entirely for something with a two-bulb socket setup instead and put another Wiz bulb in to meet the minimum load requirement. lol
Thanks for putting this post together. I decided to finally tackle home automation beyond "Hey Google" and jumped in the deep end and am learning on the fly. This really helped 
Happy it helped even one other person! It gets addictive from here, my friend
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@waymore I don't know if it says it anywhere in the post, but another helpful thing to know that @mavrrick58 pointed out to me is that Button 3 is your double tap up, Button 4 is your double tap down, 5 is triple up, 6 is triple down. For when you start getting in to other customizations.
ie In my master bedroom I have it set up that 1 tap up just turns the main bedroom light on, 1 tap down turns it off, double tap up turns on the main bedroom light, the bedroom lamp, and the bathroom lights, double tap down turns them off. Triple tap up turns on every light in the house (1 floor condo, morning wakeup routine) and triple tap down turns off every light, switch, and plug in the house and turns on the bedroom lamp if it isnt already on (a good ight im going to bed thing). I did something similar in my office, and at the entry light switch for like "welcome home" lighting amd turning everything off except the floor lamp near the patio door as Im headed out the front door to leave. Its fun
That is great to know! Thank you 
I can probably find this information as well, but how to get it to respond to actual dimming events like push/hold of button 1&2 for actual dimming functions? Im hoping to get that working with the Wiz bulbs and that's my next task here
Let me reply to myself here 
So I found a reference in another thread (can't find it now 
) that mentioned the mirror app. I installed that and then Set the primary device to the dimmer switch and then Replica Devices then pointed to the Light Group I made to control the lights as one. Then since all the levels were out of whack I set level on the dimmer to sync it all. Now the dimmer goes up and down when held.
Nice. I never dim my lights except when hitting a transition point in the Rhythms I have set so I haven't explored setting up the dimmer aspect with the Wiz bulbs. For those rare times I need to change the current Rhythm setting to a different scene I just have a couple Alexa routines setup (like if I have company over after it transitions from daytime mode to wind down mode I can just say "Alexa turn the lights back up" and she changes off of the Rhythm to a scene that matches what the Rhythm previously was. I HATE that they don't enable Alexa to activate Rhythms and only Scenes.)
