I would not assume anyone is running the Z-Wave poller, as it puts quite a bit of undo stress on a hub is used for every non Z-Wave Plus GE Switch.
I believe the Poller App is using the Capabilities of the current driver for each device to determine which ones to display. Thus, if a user has the wrong driver assigned to a device, it may or may not show up in the Z-Wave Poller App's selection menu. Thus, I do not believe this is a fool-proof method.
The only foolproof method I know of is to look for the 0x5E cluster which indicates Z-Wave Plus as pointed out by @Eric.C.Miller.
Okay, I figured out a quick and painless way to identify all of the Z-Wave Plus switches and dimmers for anyone else needing to find them also. Just navigate to the Z-Wave Details page under settings. There you will find a list of your Z-Wave devices along with all of their associated cluster information. Hit ctrl+f and type in or paste "0x5E" in the find window and select highlight and you can instantly determine all of your Z-Wave plus devices on one page.
I had ignored these drivers because they are labeled "enbrighten", but they appear to work with the non-enbrighten GE z-wave plus dimmers and switches. Nice to see a stock driver with double-tap support. It also has "flash" support that was missing from the community driver.
This could be confusing to some, and blame Jasco, but they have branded their Gen 1 Z-Wave Plus switches and dimmers as "Enbrighten" as well. This, on top of the confusion that they do not refer to the non-Plus switches as Gen 1.
So, what you are saying is ... it appears you can use the GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Smart Dimmer/Switch for the GE/Jasco dimmers/switches whether they are the newer ones with QuickFit, SimpleWire, and no breakable tabs, or the older ones with breakable tabs (but still Z-Wave Plus). Whew! [EDIT: Per comment that follows, the driver does not appear to add value over the Generic dimmer driver after all for the older Gen 1 switches]
That mouthful is exactly what I'm saying. Although, if I remember correctly, some of the first GE Z-Wave plus switches and dimmers didn't support double tap and thus would not benefit from this driver. EDIT: although the
support more features like triple tap and I would suspect that this driver may have features that aren't supported on the older models with the breakaway tabs and slowfit.
Well...I guess everything is enbrighten these days. Thanks for enbrightening me
I spoke too soon, the doubletap does not work with these drivers. It looked like it did, but then I realized I had created a group 3 association with the switch I was testing. Once I removed the association it stopped responding and there is no activity in the event log regarding double tap.
I tried it with a new "enbrighten labeled" z-wave plus dimmer that I got 2 months ago and it doesn't work with that either.
As a brand new to Hubitat and smart home anything, would any of you be kind enough to share which most current 3 pole smart switch your using and works great? I have a whole house I am excited to get moving on now that I got my one test LED light to work! Could it be the GE 46201? I suppose two pole switches as well unless the 3 pole work fine with 2 pole. I do like the concept of consistency. Also, open to any other switch ideas if you think there are better choices out there for the same purpose. Thanks. Oh, and I have a lot of boxes that crammed two switches into one single box.
Welcome to Hubitat!
Iâm partial to the Zigbee variant of this switch, which can build a nice Zigbee mesh for Zigbee sensors, but If I was buying z-wave, and had a shiny new C-7 hub, I would probably go with switches that support all of the features of that 700 series z-wave chip. I know that Zooz has some 700 series switches/dimmers that are very shallow and donât require an expensive accessory switch for 3 or 4 way setups for around the same price as those GEs. Iâm sure that people on here that are more familiar with these will chime in. You can also have a mix of some Zigbee and some Z-wave switches, which is what I have done. Although I have mostly Zigbee, I have enough Z-Wave switches to maintain a reasonable mesh for the few Z-wave devices I have. Youâll find that the best product for the job isnât always available for both Zigbee and Z-wave.
Thank you, Ken! I just watched a nice video on how to wire in the GE in existing construction, including the accessory switch. Without any research, I'd have to say I still need a second switch or are you saying the ones I already have (dumb switches) can work with the zooz (assuming I put it in the box that has the power coming into it)? That sounds like a winner there!
Yes. Thatâs what it states in their description on Amazon. I would assume that you would still need an accessory switch if you are wanting dimming from the remote location(s).
What about foregoing a switch in the second location, and using something like the Zooz Zen34 remote, or (with some extra hardware, a Lutron Bridge Pro) a Lutron Pico Remote.
Interesting. I'm on a C-7 and don't see that level of detail. Unless there is something I need to toggle. I ended up adding the built-in Z-Wave Poller app and it only shows my non-plus devices. And I'm only polling those devices that were giving me trouble, so not everything. I now have a list of which switches I need to start replacing.
On C-7, the interface changed. They are still shown on the device page for each device, but there is no longer the column on the Z-Wave Details page.
However, on the C-7, you can use Tony Fleisherâs (@tony.fleisherâs) Z-Wave Mesh Details app, click the âAuthorize Extended Device Dataâ button, enable the switch to âgrant access to Z-wave devicesâ, then enable the switch to âSelect ALL Z-Wave Devicesâ, then, on the Mesh Details page, Z-Wave Plus setting box, choose âyesâ to get a listing of the Z-Wave Plus devices, or ânoâ to get a listing of the non-Plus devices.
I have a C5, but on the C7 I assume that you still have a device page with the device details that should give you want you want if your just looking to see if it's Plus or not. Of course I might be wrong.
