I don't see a wire gauge recommendation for doors in their online instructions. They say "bell wire" in their diagram. Most doorbell wire is 20 gauge. I do see specific gauge for other things like lights though.
For this tiny signal, unless you are running long distance, ordinary thermostat or doorbell wire should be fine.
A roll of bell wire or thermostat is dirt cheap (About $10 for 50 feet), but if you are worried about waste, most Home Depot (and I think Lowes) sell this by the foot.
Good evening. @aaiyar could you explain how you set up your contact sensor as a tilt sensor, please? I have a few Gocontrol window/door sensors lying around. I was going to use the door hinge trick as my door status sensor, but love to have other options. Thanks.
I connected a tilt switch to the external contacts in the GoControl contact sensor. Works really well.
Here's a link to what it looks like:
Edit: tilt switches are cheap. I think I got 10 for $5 or $6.
Garage switch wire is typically 22 gauge. I took an old cat5 cable (24 gauge), double up a pair and used that
Thanks!
FYI - I actually reached out to Zooz customer service. In their email to me they recommend 16 gauge. With that said I'm sure smaller would work just fine...
It depends on which wire you're talking about.
For my setup, I have a relay plugged into my Zooz smart switch. That wire I'm using 14 gauge (since it's 120V AC).
For my COM-NO contact, I'm using 22 gauge to the switch, and then from the switch to the motor I'm also using 22 gauge.
Finally got this all set up and running. Without having to manage virtual devices to keep track of things, it became a lot simpler for the rules. My dashboard I just put the plug and the contact under it so I can "press" the plug to open/close.
In terms of Alexa, I have a virtual switch. This virtual switch is linked to the physical contact. If contact is open, virtual switch on, and vice versa. If I tell Alexa to turn off the switch, if the contact is open, trigger the plug. The opposite for turning on. It works perfectly.
Thanks all for the help through this
Appreciate all the advice. Will prob give this a test within the next 24 hrs. I’ve done some small electrical work in the house, but never tested two contacts like this.
Is this a situation where I should flip the breaker and connect them and then turn the breaker back on? Or is it safe to just touch the two contacts with the jump wire?
To do the test, you can safely touch the two contacts with a jumper wire. This will confirm if your garage can just open with a relay.
When installing the final product though, if you're not comfortable with high voltage, then cut the power to the garage and install it. Alternatively just unplug the garage motor
So I got all the parts and got antsy so I went for it (didn't do the jumper test, but tell me if I should go back and start there).
Below are pictures of the install and the drivers/apps I added tonight. When I go into "Garage Door" (source is "user"), and I click "open", I hear clicks but the garage door doesn't open.
PLEASE HELP 
How do you have it connected?
From the manual, it looks like it has an external power source.
All you'll need to do is go from R1 to the two contacts on the garage. SW1 is if you want to connect a switch to control the relay
so assuming you have an existing button to open the garage door, connect:
R1 to the garage motor
SW1 to the existing button
Alternatively you can leave the existing connections plugged in and connect R1 to the motor
@jsc
do you mean leave the two white wires attached to the #1 and #2 connectors as they were before I started, and just add the red and black wires also to #1 and #2 and then to R1?
I have a button next to the door. And I want to control the garage with HE, doesn't that mean I need a "switch"?
Isn't this what I did? Or did I do it backwards - Motor to SW1 and button to R1?
from your picture, you have the white wires on R1 and the red/black on SW1. the red and black are going into the garage motor...this is wrong
This is how you should be wiring it up.
Whether you put the wires as shown in the picture of put the wires in parallel on the motor, either way should still have the button work on the wall and the relay control it (via HE)
YES I HAD THEM BACKWARDS!! THANK YOU!! WORKS PERFECTLY!!
except... I had noticed that recently I wasn't getting my "Garage Door Sensor" Notifications like I was a few weeks back. I started looking into it then but lost track. Kept thinking it was an issue with my notification set up and was dismayed to realize, unlike Rule Machine, there are no logs for notifications.... However! tonight while opening and closing my door many times testing my new Relay (THANK YOU), I realized that my Aqara contact sensor was no longer appropriately assessing the open state. Is there a "best" way to re-configure it/reset it/troubleshoot it?
see if you can't connect an external connection to it and add a tilt sensor. that's what i did and i can tell when my door is closed or open (even partially open). if not, i'd recommend the gocontrol WADWAZ-1. it's z-wave and not z-wave plus though
I have a brand new Aquara Window/Door contact sensor - worked perfectly for weeks. Once the door opened 1-2 inches, immediately it would say "Open" and I'd get a notification. It has 100% battery, but is no longer registering as "open" anymore...
May have fallen off the network. Try going to Zigbee pairing, and re-pair the device. If it finds it again, then you need to find a way to keep it on the network.
Aqara are very picky about staying on the network in general.
does it trigger at all? if not, maybe exclude it and add it back
Download the Hubitat app
