Garage Door Rule

Seconding @neonturbo's recommendation here - get a tilt or contact sensor.

I have a contact sensor I can move over there and try it with.

So instead of the global variable/virtual switch, I would just use the contact sensor as my trigger to do/not do things?

So for example:
"Alexa close garage door"
-> If garage contact sensor is open, trigger relay to close door

"Alexa open garage door"
-> If garage contact sensor is closed, trigger relay to open door

I guess in terms of the dashboard, I will have a button to trigger the relay and a status of the garage door to help me out.

Thanks for helping me clear this up. I've been tinkering with it all virtually, then was posing myself more questions and over complicating it.

I didn't see, or you didn't mention what device was actually controlling the door.

Like many others, I'm going to set up a relay to control my garage door

I got a smart plug to power a relay for a moment, then the relay will trigger the garage door.

This was the video that I found that inspired me to do it this way

I guess I can use a virtual switch to help control it from the AGH aspect. If the switch is on then the door is open, and vice versa. This would give me something to present to AGH, and I can set it's value based on the contact sensor.

This way when I tell AGH to open/close the door, it would trigger that virtual switch. Then depending on the status of the door, I can trigger the smart plug to actually open/close the door.

I'm not sure this is still relevant, but worth a try.

Lots of good info here too:

And here:

In fact, stalk @aaiyar 's account, he has lots of great info in those threads.

Thanks for these links. I believe I came across them before I posted mine as they didn't really address the concern I'm trying to achieve.

If I only used the phone/remote, then it would be fine since if I'm driving up I can see if I need to open/close the door, and if I use the phone I can see the status of the contact sensor.

I guess this thread was more so how to seamlessly integrate AGH into this so if I tell it to close/open the garage. I guess a virtual switch linked to my contact sensor will suffice.

So if the existing remote is used, the contact sensor knows the status of the door.

In say Alexa routines, I would make a routine that if I say "close garage door", I don't want it to trigger the smart plug if the door is already closed. I can use a virtual switch that will be on/off. If off, the door is closed. If I say "close garage door" and it's already closed/off, then it'll do nothing. If it's open though, it'll trigger a rule in hubitat to trigger the smart plug to close the door.

I am pretty sure that first link I posted will do exactly what you want. It takes into account the door state when controlling it. It uses virtual devices, and I believe it changes the virtual device from open to closed via the app. So that should just work once you get it installed and configured.

:joy:I just looked at the code in it and it accomplishes what I did in rules. I think I was just confusing myself with the extra rule of toggling the virtual contact sensor and overthinking it.

Thanks again for your help.

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One thing the code does have that I won't have is an accelerator. Since I'm just going to use a standard contact sensor, I think I'll stick with my rules. Definitely fun to play with the code and learn more though

Time to plug it up and test it out

Stupid MyQ 2.0+ doesn't work. Looks like I need to get another 2.0+ security device and tap this into that to control it

Can you solder?

Some people have tied into the physical button on the wall, and "pressed" that button with the relay. Basically same as what you did, but at the wall button microswitch.

I have a second button coming tomorrow. I'm going to put that in parallel with the existing setup and mount it by the opener. I don't want to tap into the existing panel as it's in my line of sight when I go into the garage. I'd prefer to not see it with the wires around it. If I connect it on the motor, it's above everything and will be out of the way. I plan on doing exactly this, soldering into that button and using it to trigger everything.

You can run another set of wires wherever you want, you could still mount your relay to the opener, and run the tiny wire over to the button on the wall.

Or are you saying your existing wires run behind the drywall or are hidden somehow?

yea, existing wires are in the wall. the only way i would get extra wire to the switch would be to use the existing wire as a snake, and have it pull new wire through

Worst case if I can't put the two control panels in parallel, I'll just get another remote to program and have to manage the battery over time. I'm trying to use a second control panel so I won't have to manage batteries though :crossed_fingers:

Switches work in parallel. Looks like I'm all good with this now

would it be possible for you to take pictures of your setup?

I just received my Zooz Zen16 Multirelay. I thought I was going to be installing this up by the opener (out of sight), but upon further research it looks like I'm supposed to install it by my switch (eye-level, and unsightly).

If its the same wire at the switch and the opener, why can't I connect it up at the opener?

Side Question - my first time working with a relay, thought it would come with some wires, do I need to order wires? If so, is there a certain spec of wire I need? Thanks!

You could if your opener doesn't use Security+ 2.0. For such openers (which are newer), the switch is powered by the opener (i.e. 2 wires), but controls the opener using an encrypted wireless signal, much like a remote.

Connecting the dry contact relay across the switch's terminals permits the same encrypted signal to be sent wirelessly using the radio in the switch.

Note: this only applies to openers that use security+ 2.0

Edit: You could consider buying a second switch and putting it and the ZEN16 into a project box that is mounted right by the opener. The second switch would have to be paired to the opener and connected to the same wiring terminals as the first switch.