I have a question about the MIMO2 driver you created. I know you had no interest in using the inputs so does that mean your driver doesn't have any code for handling the inputs .. or does it mean that it has the code but it needs add'l work to make it usable with HE .. or does it mean that it might work as is but you just haven't tested it? If it's the latter, I'm happy to do the testing but if the code still needs work to migrate it, then it might be a barrier as I don't have the programming tools to do that.
Tks.. Ian
The code is in there and I did test the inputs (like exactly once - I jumpered them and it showed up in the hubitat device, and I believe I also applied some voltage which also registered). There's the added complication that there is a switch that changes the behavior of the inputs.
This is totally aside, but If Fortrezz had built this thing so it could trigger the relays when the input is triggered, it would have been extra awesome. I'd just wire my garage door buttons into the MIMO. Technically, it appears you can do that, but then that kills much of the z-wave functionality (why?). You could write some rules that fire the relays when you press the buttons attached to the inputs, but then your garage door is reliant upon HE, which doesn't seem wise.
I'm at a lose at why my mimo2+ doesn't work with this driver. I even pulled out my ST hub reset it and installed the mimo there. it worked fine. I factory reset and put back on HE. it didn't work again. Hmmm.. ok I'll put back on ST just remove from ST and include in HE. Thinking maybe ST sets something. still now workie.
If i press the program button it sends status report and HE parses. it looks like everything except the relays work. I see the messages being sent. but from parent app they are incorrectly trying to turn on/off null. but from the child app they seem to be sending the correct messages.
is there any hope in getting this driver to work or should i just wait a few weeks for the "Official" driver.
Are you saying the child devices work for you, but you need the parent device (On/On2) instead?
I am using the child devices myself (because most garage door apps can't trigger "On2"), but I didn't remove or intentionally break the parent device code. It's possible I unintentionally broke it though. I'll test the parent device tonight and see if the button presses there are still working for me.
The child devices logs look correct but the relays do not react.
I'll go ahead and bite the bullet tonight or tomorrow and un-pair my device and go through the process again to make sure there's not something I've missed. Fortunately, the SO is out of state and the garage is a disaster at the moment, so it won't be too much of a loss if I break things for a couple days. 
BTW, I hope it's not coming across that I'm not interested in getting this to work. It's just hard as a newcomer to get up to speed on writing code for Hubitat since the developer documentation is basically just an older version of the SmartThings documentation, but with some changes that aren't really documented, so you have to search the forums and look at other people's code to figure it all out. It just makes it a lot of work, which feels like wasted effort if Hubitat themselves are going to make the work obsolete soon.
I appreciate your help. I'm not a developer and need to learn groovy. Maybe at someone the devs will put together some training. I'd love to be able to contribute to the code, but at this point I'm just a 
that can find problems. 
peng1can .. tks very much for confirming. I got my unit today and I see in the instructions the caution about input-to-relay mappings not allowing z-wave clear/set commands. But instead of 'hard mapping' the inputs to the relays, couldn't you just disconnect garage door button(s) and then wire the relay(s) to the wiring that the button(s) were connected to. Then if the MIMO was close to the button(s), you could wire the button to the MIMO's +16V and GND connections and configure the input as NO momentary (if that's possible). That way when the button is pushed, the input sees 16V and triggers an event and you could use the hub to monitor for those events and then trigger a relay which would have to be configured as momentary as well. Isn't that what you want to do? I think I read somewhere in the doc that the input has an internal impedance so that it wouldn't be shorting out the 16V supply when pushed but you'd want to check that. ...Ian
If I'm following what you're saying, we'd still be reliant upon Hubitat to relay the pressing of the manual button to the garage door motor. Although I would be more likely to trust hubitat for that than I am SmartThings, I still don't like the idea of an external dependency for the garage door opener. I don't want to take a chance that something happens with the hub and then I can't cancel the garage door closing.
If the processing was happening on the MIMO (which is what seems to happen if you set the input-to-relay mapping except that you lose the z-wave control), I would probably trust it and then have the added bonus of being able to track the button presses and maybe do something useful with that info.
I'm still not sure I'm completely understanding your requirements. If all you're wanting to do is to operate the opener via the button or the MIMO, then just connect one of the relays in parallel with the button. That way you'll still have manual control with the button. But if you also want to know if the button is pushed, then you'll have to create a way to monitor the button which is likely using low voltage AC and therefore not compatible with the MIMO inputs as they are DC only I believe. If you have some electronics experience, you could probably use a bridge rectifier and a couple of resisters to take the AC voltage and convert it to an acceptable DC level that would be compatible with a MIMO input. If not, you could probably buy a relay that would accept AC and then connect the switched side between the MIMO DC voltage and an input.
On the other hand, if you don't really want to know if the button has been pushed but you do want to know if the door is open or closed, just buy a cheap magnetic contact switch and mount it to the door and frame so when the door is opened, the switch will go from open (if its NC) or closed (if its NO) and if you wire one side to MIMO 16V and the other side in series with a MIMO input (plugged as NC) then the MIMO will detect the change. This has the added benefit of telling you if the button was pushed as well.
I started poking away at this today.
These are my implementation thoughts.
Two child devices, one for each of the two channels.
Children would expose switch and contact capabilitys.
Parent device would have the following options for each channel, however I'll enumerate the options for channel 1 for the sake of brevity.
Relay 1 control: manual, sig1, sig2, sig1 and sig2
Relay 1 auto off: disabled and various options from .5 to 3 seconds
Signal 1 trigger: inside or outside (essentially flips the input allowing nc or no contact sensors)
I'm going to skip all the signal voltage threshold options, if youre using those you probably have your own driver already...
When a signal input is bound to one of the outputs auto off is disabled and the on off commands from the children will not change the relay states, that's just the way this thing works.
Thoughts?
Is the inside/outside the intended label? If the purpose is to select NC/NO maybe keep the purpose/label the same so it's known it's to toggle NC/NO?
Trying to follow the terminology in the tech docs...
Cool... following what's in the docs is always best... then you can tell us all to RTFM! 
Glad to see you all doing the coding. I have zero programming skills. And kind of got the early code running. Looking forward to the new driver. Willing blind monkey tester. 
Hi Mike.
I agree. The sig voltage and meter pulse counter could probably be utilized in some oddball applications (like for curtains and roller blind control), but for the most part I think those features are probably more for the pocket protector and stainless ruler crowd.
Here is a typical use case: I have a long-range Dakota Alert driveway monitor. When someone starts up the driveway and breaks a laser beam, a signal is sent to the Dakota Alert base station. The base station then sends a bit of voltage to Sig 1 Input, which in turns triggers Sig 1 NO to close for 3 seconds. When Sig 1 NO closes, I fire off various triggers to turn on the driveway lights, back yard lights, ring a chime, etc. Sig 2 input and NO could be used to monitor a second driveway or a gate switch.
I think the setup you are describing would be flexible enough to accomodate most situations.
Thanks,
--Barry
Does anybody know if the Fortrezz MIMO2+ Hubitat driver supports readout of the pulse counter? I was thinking to monitor a water meter that has pulsed output and this is the closest thing I have found to an approach to integrate it. Thanks if any ideas.
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not working for me.. Missing Activation and multi second delay turning off or on 3 feet from the hub.. Guess ill send back to amazon and go back to the non + version i already have.. any suggestions.
did a repair on it and its trying to use 2 repeaters when it literally is 2 feet from the hub.. something wrong with this device.
