Hi Jeff -- still lovin' this driver - works a treat!
I didn't realize Zooz had f/w 1.15 out till I checked today, and they added a new param 99... It looks like that may be a useful one to expose -- any chance it can be added to your driver?
Many thanks again for your awesome work on Zooz gear!
Yeah I saw that as well, I will have to get this driver up to speed with all the others and add that in there. I really wanted to get the supervision working properly on this one also since it uses the working status.
Since this topic wasn't closed, I figured I'd ask from actual owners. Can anyone who owns this tell me how wide the clamps open on the Titan to secure to a pipe. Interested in purchasing one of these just not sure if it's compatible with my setup. I have an odd setup.
Damn I think the union is about 2.5". I'll ne3d to double check. Looks like I may need to get a plumber to move it further down the line or add another one elsewhere.
Unless the clamp can sneak in there after the large part of the union? You could also cut in another shut off down stream. My house has one before the meter and one after, not sure if that is standard practice.
Anyway, here is the offset from center to the clamp. The clamp can slide up and down a little as well, you can see the joint where it slides in the picture.
I tried seating it and it's just a no go. The shut-off ends are too thick. I'm thinking of going to HD/Lowes and bringing the titan with me to see if a compression fitting (not sharkbite) will be short enough to allow it to seat properly around it. That I can diy myself.
However, it looks to be designed for shut-offs that are sweated on with smaller footprints on the waterline, The nuts on either side of a compression fitting might make it too long. If not, I guess I'll need to get a plumber to sweat on another shut-off next to it.
That's a bummer, I wonder if you could just get rid of that union somehow. Or maybe just put a longer pipe between the union and the shut-off, moving it down stream slightly. Cant tell is all that is sweated together or if some joints have thread tape. Although a plumber would probably make quick work of it so may be the easiest route.
I ended up hiring a plumber. He propressed a new valve down the line. I was impressed and annoyed that it cost as much as it it did since it wasn't sweated on. But wow was it quick, clean and interesting to see how efficiently it's executed.
This actuator is awesome. Even the plumber stuck around to see how well it worked. He couldn't help but ask why I needed 2 ball valves next to each other. However, he was throughly impressed with it and the temp sensor. Was amazed at how the lights and Alexa started notifying.
Then he looked at me like Gacy and threw the bill at me like I was trying to escape my wallets fate.
Thanks for the driver, sir. Much appreciated. Wish I came to HE sooner. Love this platform and community.
Since this driver never left beta state I guess this is the final round of beta before going to final 1.0.0 status! @hydro311
This is totally overhauled and updated to my current code base / library code. I added in a bunch of the new stuff as well.
This is posted to a separate branch on gitHub, I will add to HPM as soon as I feel safe this wont cause anyone a catastrophe. I do not have a battery pack to test and also have not tested the various alerts since I revamped it so I possibly broke something (but probably not).
Please turn on DEBUG - Indefinitely to capture all event logging.
This is what needs to be tested:
heat and freeze alarms
leak alerts
power source changes
battery notifications (I assume % ??)
changing temp to C I think will have issues, need to fix/test
Hey quick question, is there a way to pull lastCheckInDate into an RM rule? I'd like a peace of mind to make sure it doesn't disconnect or is unreachable.
I just realized your driver has built in tester for the valve functionality and enabled that.
All my drivers are setup so the lastActivity date/time that app uses should ONLY get updated if the device sends a report to the hub, and it will update if you send a refresh to the device. Due to this they work great with that app. Have not implemented the "healthStatus" attribute yet but may consider adding that eventually.
I think the self-test feature is enabled by default so yours was possibly doing that all along, unless you had turns the setting off by mistake. Its good because it keeps the valve loosened up as well, so when you really need it to work it does not get stuck.
Hahaha, I guess it was amd glad it's a default option. It wasn't selected from the drop-down, but it did show that enabled is default. Does it log if it fails or alert or do I need to figure out how to monitor that?
Good question... I have some docs somewhere Zooz gave me to help with the driver, I will have dig through that later and see if it says anything about it. Otherwise we might have to ask them.
HI Jeff -- I loaded the new version on both my Titans. I only have the battery pack on one of them, but I did a quick power pull on it, and the battery/mains status updated immediately, so that part seems to be working great.
I haven't had a chance yet to test the wired sensors, but I'm confident that'll all be fine too.
I have debug on, so I'll keep an eye on things as I play around more, but so far so good -- thank you again!!