Just recently replaced a dual light switch (two single pole switches in a single box) with the Diese ZigBee dual switch (from Amazon). Installed easily, with neutral wire. Paired directly with by HE. (I didn't bother with their "Smart Life" app)
Works great both manually and remotely, also with Alexa. HOWEVER: today when lights were on, I witnessed both lights go off, then back on, then repeated cycle 3 times (about 20-30 sec cycle) while the "wifi" light was blinking. No idea what that really means or why...?
If it disconnected from the HE, that concerns me, as is is literally less than 10 feet away from the hub. Also, even more concerning, is when the "wifi" light stopped flashing and all went back to normal, both lights remained off until manually turned back on ... Even though they were on when this started.
I should mention that I'm using the generic ZigBee driver that comes up in the hub when you select by manufacturer (Diese) and switch...
I believe you can only pair with one hub or protocol at a time.
It sounds like a bad device to me. But maybe it is trying for some reason to pair to Wifi on its own? Was it ever on Wifi, or is there a reset procedure? I didn't see any documentation for this device, do the instructions tell what the blinking lights on the device mean?
The remaining off after a power cycle is probably normal, but it also might have some preference that could be set. Again, I am not sure what it has. I don't recall anyone here using this device, but it is Tuya based so hopefully someone more familiar with their lineup has an idea.
Also on a lighter note, Diese (dicey) seems like a very odd choice for an electrical device. "That is one dicey light switch you have there, maybe it should be replaced". 18 Synonyms & Antonyms for DICEY | Thesaurus.com
Only ever paired with HE. Never on wifi, I don't think it even supports that.
I've seen some mention of alternate drivers for these, but I used the generic ZigBee driver that you get when you select Diese switch in HE.
Also, this switch is next to a refrigerator and the apartment breaker panel is in the wall behind the switch... Could either of those be interfering somehow? If so, any solutions?
Most of the time it seems fine, but last night it again turned one light off, and the other on by itself! Then corrected itself.
Any ideas or insights much appreciated. The only other double switch in a single gang box I've seen is the Aqara, and a few Amazon reviewers have noted that it has burned!
@erktrek is a big Zoozer, he might have helpful info on this option.
I'm a little confused (happens a lot).
I think you're first saying that there is a Wi-Fi light blinking on the switch, but then you say the switch doesn't support Wi-Fi. Can you clarify the Wi-Fi info?
I have never used that Zen30 Switch (we use "toggle" style around these parts for some reason) but in general I have had good success with Zooz so still recommend.
Sounds like Diese stuff is Tuya so I'm assuming @user936 is selecting "Tuya Smart" and "Generic Zigbee Multi-Endpoint Switch" when adding... "Diese" does not appear to be listed on compatible products otherwise.
Okay now I'm confused (joining @danabw) - I looked at Amazon and saw that Diese offers WiFi devices.. Is yours Wifi or Zigbee?
What are you using to "pair" the device with the Hubitat? The community built "Tuya Cloud Driver"? Something else? Do you have a link to the Amazon product so we can check it out?
Yep was just going to post that link.. I agree would not install either.
Also notice how it's not confirmed to be Zigbee 3.0 only that it requires the "Tuya Zigbee 3.0 hub" and the protocol is "Tuya/SmartLife ZigBee 3.0". Of course Zigbee 3.0 is supposed to be backwards compatible so these statements while technically accurate are misleading.
These days if you want any hope of your cheap zigbee device working with HE it should at least be "Zigbee 3.0"... if not then the "old" Tuya incompatibility rules apply - best keep those devices on a separate hub/repeater or off your hub completely. Of course Zigbee 3.0 is no panacea either..
edit: Be wary of super cheap, unknown home automation stuff on Amazon - sometimes it's a vendor trying to get rid of their stock of worthless junk.
Do you have evidence to prove that the CE and other certifications are fake? It is my understanding (based on actually importing goods from China) that the USA will not allow import if the mark is not backed up by current certificate documentation....
Nope that just means it uses the "supported" protocol which is "Tuya/SmartLife Zigbee 3.0". Since Zigbee 3.0 protocol is supposed to be backwards compatible all devices would fit with this. Note it does not specifically say the device is 3.0.. also if you look at the pictures there is the standard Zigbee logo NOT the Zigbee 3.0 label (edit: the logos I'm referring to are not shown on the device but pasted images in one of the marketing shots).
However - since it is listed as Hubitat Compatible it should be okay. The only other things I can see are maybe voltage issues - there is some question in the comments about that or maybe a flaky device.
Sorry! My bad choice of wording... The indicator light in question is the "radio" link, I called it "wifi" just because the symbol is the same as typical wifi connectivity...
I've been doing more reading (sorry, I'm new to Zigbee/Z-Wave/Hubitat, having just sadly replaced my Insteon setup)...
The switch seems to be performing well almost all the time. So far, the only weird behavior (as I noted earlier) has been in the evening (not night) hours. My guess is possible wifi interference. We live in a condo with literally dozens of visible wifi access points. Moreover, my HE is installed less than a foot away from my own Wifi router antennas! I am going to move it farther away (although the location is such that it will still be only a few feet distance). Will see if that avoids the problem...
CE is a European mark, self-administered by the manufacturers. It has no connection with (or recognition from) the FCC.
I do agree that CE is not necessarily a good mark, because I don't think there is an actual certification, just a manufacturer's verification that it complies with the CE "rules"
There are issues with US marks like UL as well...
As I posted above, the manufacturer lists various other certifications and tests it has (supposedly) passed.
Only thing that (electrically) surprised me with this device is that there is no ground connection.
