Yes, except I have no "edit button by the DNI". I only have an edit button in the Status column. I checked the Settings for this page and there is no check box available (as there is for Status edit).
I understand your caution here -- "Use At Your Own Risk"!! If a Full Reset is the alternative, it might be worth a try.
You are probably in the Z-Wave details still, you have to go to the device page. There IS an edit button. There is no reason it would not be there.
Yes, you are correct. I was still on the devices page and not the details for an individual device. Thanks!
I was able to use Z-Wave Reset and the problem is now resolved. Here is the sequence I used:
I believe the "Ghost Devices" are gone for good. Thank you for your help!!!
Best, Greg
OMG!, @jtp10181 This can't be the only way to fix this!. I started having the same error @greg1 described above:
I had an Old z-wave (non-plus) Schlage Lock that had been working ok for a years. Not great but OK. It finally started acting wonky recently and I chalked it up to the change in hardware to a C-8 Plus in January, and all the beta releases in 2.3.9 which seem to have had impacts on z-wave. Thus I decided to remove the lock. I was having trouble excluding it or getting it to do anything really so I did the bonehead move of factory resetting the device. I still couldn't get it exclude. I tried the Community suggestions for Hubitat tools to remove the device from z-wave, and to use my z-Stick to remove the ghost. These always worked in the past. No luck on this one.
So I force removed the device. Still couldn't get it off the Z-wave. Now I am stuck with this message above. @tony.fleisher app shows FAILED with a line through it.
I don't know what that means. I have tried my AEOTEC z-wave stick (700 series) following the community instructions (which always worked for me in the past) but I can't mark this node as "IsFailed". Thus, I can't remove it.
This can't be the only way to fix this. I have too many z-waves and too many rules to want to go here if I can avoid it. I would really appreciate any other ideas.
LJ
Using PC Controller are you sure you are working on the correct node? The nodes in the hub are listed as HEX for the DNI and in Z-Wave details shown as 0xHEX (DEC), and PC Controller only shows the DEC numbers. If you look at the hex code which happens to be two numbers and then try that decimal node in PC Controller it is the wrong one.
Usually PC Controller has no issues removing nodes. Have you tried excluding the USB stick and including it again? Some times that will do the trick. Try including it with security, I know the guide says not to but I always include mine with S2 so it has access to everything.
Definitely do not do a radio reset, I would just ignore the node if you cannot get rid of it.
Yes
Yes, Many times now.
OK, I will try that.
Thanks,
LJ
OK, Included the stick as S2AC. Same result. the log from PC Controller says:
PC Controller just doesn't seem to mark it as FAILED.
LJ
EDIT: I did do a shutdown, wait 30 seconds, and restart before I tried this.
It is odd that it comes back so fast saying it it is not failed.
Since you said you never could get it to exclude, do you currently have the batteries out of the lock just in case it is somehow responding? Unless you have it paired as a new node already then that really should not matter.
Without a zniffer trace I dont think there is a way to know why it is deciding it is not failed.
The device is not re-paired. Should I try that? It is currently powered, but over the last 24 hours, I am reasonably certain I have tried this without the power being applied. I can try that again too.
LJ
I did read an interesting tidbit just this week, for battery powered devices they will only be marked as failed if they do not check in a certain number of times in a row at scheduled wake intervals.
So there is a small chance you never got it reset, and it keeps checking in even though you cannot get it to do anything else.
If you pair it back again this for sure means it was reset and has a new node, so it will in no way be checking in on the old node anymore. After that it may just take 24 hrs for the mesh to decide it is really dead according to that info I read.
Hmm, that is Interesting. I wish I had had it powered down all night. I thought I had read that these Battery locks still woke up on these old non-Plus Z-wave every few seconds just to ensure security, and that is why the battery life on them was so poor.
I did try re-pairing and the device indicator lights go immediately to red, meaning some sort of error. One time I tried it, and Hubitat said it detected a device but the Lock failed with red indicators and Hubitat could not finish the pairing. The Lock is 6 inches from the hub so it should not be a distance thing.
I will have to try leaving it alone, unpowered for 24 hours or so. I may play with it a bit more today but then I will leave it powered down until tomorrow.
LJ
I have never tried this, and I likely won't know how to interpret it, but I can try to capture it and forward it to you.
LJ
You would need an extra USB stick flashed with the zniffer firmware to use it. Someone posted a link to current instructions on how to flash them not long ago, was something on the ZWave JS site I think.
The only other stick I have is an AEOTEC ZW090-A Gen5. Would that work? I will have to look for the instructions.
LJ
Found the other post with the link to the instructions. They do list a bunch of options depending on what stick you have, seems like maybe not all will work.
Oh dang that is beta... here is the content
I just ordered a Zooz 800 stick. Isn't that what you use?
I have an older Zooz stick (700 I think) I use with PC Controller, and a UZB7. Then I have two UZB3's I converted to zniffer firmware.
OK, This is going to take me a while to absorb and get working (if I can). For now I am going to power down the lock (which I could not re-pair) for 24 hours while I try to figure out the Zniffer and wait for my Zooz 800 to arrive. I will get back.
Thanks as always,
LJ
I honestly have no idea what, if anything, the zniffer will even show. Would just be very interesting to see if somehow there is a response coming back. It could just be that the PC controller or USB stick is deciding on its own the node is not failed for some unknown reason, even though it is not reachable.
Download the Hubitat app
