C7 hub stopped controlling all Zwave devices. (Only Zwave on this hub). No control of devices, no automation, and can not remove or add Zwave devices. (Can add Zigbee devices) Rebooted with database rebuild with no effect
Does this mean the radio is dead? Any way to test?
Please provide your hub model (C7, C8, etc.) and its platform version from Settings>Hub Details.
Check out the following post for help troubleshooting problems and gathering details that will help others to identify and solve the problem you are experiencing: ‼ READ FIRST - Before Posting in Get Help
Do a shut down from settings and unplug for 30 seconds. This is power off and fully restart the Z-Wave radio. A normal reboot does not power down the radios.
I just added this info to the Read First post since it seems to come up a lot, hopefully that will prevent some frustration for someone in the future.
I believe the zwave radio in my hubitat is dead. I have tried the shutdown and pull power for 30 seconds to no avail. Everything was working a couple weeks ago and then I noticed none of my zwave switches work anymore. Log screenshot attached. I updated to 2.4.0.151 to see if this would resolve the issue, no luck. Hardware is C-8
Suggestions?
So it took two weeks to notice they had stopped working? Usually people notice a total Zwave crash pretty quickly.
Anyway, it does seem like it tries to start twice a minute and immediately crashes, so it never really starts, but all we have is that one log screenshot.
As @aslyar said, this could be a device gone bad, and not actually be the hub radio. I would start by air-gapping every device, and then see if zwave will start after a full hub power cycle, with a database rebuild option.
If you have in-wall devices without air gap switches, you will have to hit the breaker. Just make sure to keep your router and hub on a circuit that stays powered.
If Zwave starts without crashing, start adding devices back in one by one by pushing the air gap back in,or turning on a breaker, and see if any single device crashes your Zwave.
If you take all Zwave devices off the network and Zwave still crashes, it could still be the hub. However, you can then also try the more arduous task of removing one device at a time from Hubitat by totally excluding it, and then try starting zwave each time. This will mess with any automations that use the devices when you remove them.
Either way, you can also provide more screenshots here, like of the zwave logs under settings-zwave, and the Zwave settings page and the device graph.
Yeah not always, technically the air gap only needs to cut load power so you can safely change light bulbs. Sort of a silly electrical code requirement. But often they cut the entire board off.
House is under construction, just finished all the electrical switches and noticed none of the zwave were working anymore. They had all been working when first installed.
I disabled all the zwave switches in the hubitat and the errors stopped. I then turned them all on one by one. No error messages. unfortunately none were working either. Then the error returned the next day. Unfortunately the zwave logs, zwave stats, and zwave graph are blank. Does not matter if the error ie being generated or not. Unfortunately I never looked at these pages when everything was working fine. Thank you for your help, any other suggestions would be appreciated.
I think I first would go into Settings, do a controlled shutdown, unplug hub power when it says it's okay to do so, wait 30 seconds, and then plug the power back in.
edit: ooops, I just read the whole thread. Couldn't hurt to try again, before going the warranty route anyway.
Perhaps a 30 second flip of the main breaker while the hub is shutdown as well?
People here also talk about using the original power supply when troubleshooting.
But, if, if that doesn't work, or the fix is temporary, and it has worked okay after the last time you did the power cycle, perhaps it's a device that's screwing up.
What kind and number of devices do you have? Vintage? Long range or mesh? Etc.
edit2: If I was building a new house, I'd put in all new long-range Z-wave devices, to the extent possible, to hopefully avoid mesh issues. Then again, I'm not, and it's not my money.
Wall dimmers still allow some voltage to the fixture even when they are turned off. To prevent shocks while working at the fixture, the switches have an "air gap" switch to totally remove power going to the fixture. I have heard that this is a requirement of some electrical codes.
I routinely engage the air gap even when changing a light bulb because I experienced one occasion where the inrush of current as I replaced the bulb burnt out the internal triac in an old X10 switch.
This video shows one type of switch. Other switches will slide, and for my Leviton switches, I put my fingernail under the lower edge of the paddle, and lift the whole paddle upwards.
It's not 100% known if the air gaps removes the power to just the fixture, or if it kills the power input to the switch, which would kill the internal radios.
I have mentioned that before. Older GE/Jasco 300 series switches had this problem where air gap didn’t cut power to the Zwave chip. Newer models do this.
@eric.stacia what brand switches do you have? If GE/Jasco/Enbrighten how old are they? I ask because the 2017 vintage, ones with 17XX stickers on them, are well known to fail because of a cheap component in them. They often fail when power is tripped either by a power outage or breaker. They will often click constantly when this happens.
I would suggest shutting down, cut power, turn back on and immediately go to Zwave settings and click View Logs on the Zwave page. See if a device is constantly spamming the mesh. I personally use a zniffer, search that term on the community, but the Zwave logs should provide some clues if you have a faulty mesh.
