Converting WaterCop Classic to Z-Wave

I've had a WaterCop Classic for years. We used the Aux/IO port to hardwire a WaterCop switch located near the entrance door so we can turn off the water when we leave the house.

I'd like to add Z-Wave control because I'd like to automate watering the hanging baskets, which need watering every day, and I'm paranoid about leaving the water on when no one is home. So, first, I'd like to automate the WaterCop Classic.

I just (impulsively) ordered a new 2019 model WaterCop z-wave actuator off eBay for $55. I then, belatedly, realized I'd have to get z-wave water sensors as well. I have a pretty good number of the old dedicated wireless sensors around the house now.

It seems that the current actuator can be controlled via the network cable provided for a security system connection. I wonder if I could just control the actuator on/off by a z-wave switch that would open and close a couple of dry contacts (although I don't know where to find such a switch). This way I might have more reliability from the existing independent wireless (vs z-wave); I did read that some people were having problems with the z-wave version. Plus, I wouldn't have to buy a bunch of new z-wave sensors.

What do you think?

I see that the manual talks about associating the sensors to the valve, and that the controller typically is used to to this. Can this be done with Hubitat?
I'm thinking on a mission critical thing such as this, eliminating one potential case of failure, the Hub, would be a good thing.

You can definitely leave the system intact and control the valve with external dry contact.
This zooz is a great fit or any dual smart dry contact switch would also work. You just need to lookup what's supported by HE or the community for driver.

https://www.amazon.com/MultiRelay-ZEN16-Sprinklers-Fireplace-Repeater/dp/B0846DZJD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact+relay&qid=1602870144&sprefix=z-wave+dry&sr=8-4

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Thing is, I think momentary is required. The driver would have to support that.

What I do is create a virtual and use the mirror app to tie the virtual and the z-wave switch together for momentary function. You can set the virtual switch for auto off in the switch detail page. Or you can use RM to turn the switch off when ON.

Edit : Even Simple Automation can do that I think.

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i installed a virtual zooz multi relay device and it does have a momentary option.

Don't create a virtual multi switch. Just a single switch and you will see the auto off.

I created the virtual multi relay switch just to see what options it had. And you can choose from a dropdown menu what kind of switch action:

image

I never tried that since it doesn't look easy to bind to your real switches. Maybe RM could do it.

What I meant was, before I bought the physical relay, I created a virtual switch using that driver, just to see what options it had. That's where I saw it had a momentary option. I'll check it out when I actually receive it.

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Well, I think it works.

I received the Zen16 today.

I used the wiring diagram as seen above and used one relay to close valve, and one relay to open valve.

The Zooz multi relay (Zen16) was set to auto off the relays in 1 second. The "momentary" I saw above only applies to the wired switch terminals.

Temporarily, hopefully, I assigned double taps on a switch near the exit door to close and open the valve. There is no light to show status, as the hardwired WaterCop switch does. I'm hoping I can keep it by using a cable splitter. Or, splicing some more wires, lol.

What's nice about this, is that the WaterCop Classic wireless radio is still intact. This gives me ability to turn on and off by z-wave. Hopefully, I'll water those hanging baskets without worrying about the house flooding.

I still have a WaterCop Z-Wave model coming in the mail, as well as some Utilitech sensors. While the WaterCop Z-Wave unit might be a waste of money, maybe I can make use of the sensors, and have the Hub independently turn off the system in case of a leak, for some redundancy. Probably still a waste of money.

Anyway, it sure looks like the Classic can be converted at a good price.

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Nothing fancy.

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That's pretty awesome you could keep you system intact and be able to control it with just one extra device.
Next project is feedback sensors :grin:

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I got a splitter in and it works I wanted. It's plugged into the WaterCop and the wired (with lights) auxiliary and the Zooz multi relay are plugged into it.

I can control the valve either way, and the wired switch displays the switch status!

Now, I have to find a use for those 10 z-wave utilitech water sensors, and less probably, for the z-wave WaterCop. :slight_smile:

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It would be nice if the dashboard would show the valve position. Since the relays have to momentarily activated, they just flash from off to on to off again in a second. Apparently, showing actual valve position is possible, (see snip, below).

I tried a couple of the 10 Utilitech z-wave water sensors. They seem to work fine so far. The plastic is better than the WaterCop Classic sensors, for sure, lol, and they have a 10 foot cord. Even though the 13 bucks each is more than some people paid, they're a lot cheaper than the 70 bucks WaterCop gets.

The fact that the offending sensors can be identified is an improvement over the WCC's soft beeping, although the Utilitechs also have a very quiet beep. It's not clear how or if battery status can be obtained, although, I believe they do (quietly) beep, and would notify Iris, if that was still around. Maybe I will break out the Z-Wave version of the WaterCop, lol.

image

I figured out a way to get some idea if the valve is open or closed from the dashboard, without getting actual valve status.

I created a virtual switch that is turned on by the relay associated with "close" cycles, and that turns off when the "open" relay cycles. That virtual switch switch in turn controls those relays. So, when the virtual switch is "off", the valve icon is dark and the valve opens, when "on" the icon turns to yellow and the valve closes. It also reacts well to sensor activation, which is tied to the relays. Seems to work, lol.

Edit: It doesn't reflect valve status when the wired switch is used, because that is wired directly into the unit, and not the relay.

I fixed it by having the hardwire control wired to the manual switch end of the Zen16, a jumper for power (5v), and joining the other colored wires together to get it to light up. Hey, it works. So, now when I flip the manual switch by the door, the dashboard tile lights up.

Funny, I was about to say " what if someone pressed the button at the door".
Nicely done!

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