I have moved your post to this topic. If you read the instructions in the first post of the topic you originally posted in, you will see that it is intended for nominations only and not discussion, with discussion being linked to for here instead:
As for the actual question, many contact sensors these days have a built-in temperature sensor. This includes some of the nominated products, including at least the Iris and Xfinity models. But I also haven't heard of problems with the ST sensor on the C-8. You may want to make a separate topic about your particular problems, since if you're dealing with a larger Zigbee network problem, it may come back regardless of what contact sensor you use.
Beyond some mentioned there, the Centralite 3323-G (3-series door/window sensor) does temperature and is made by the same OEM as the (nominated) Iris v2 sensor that has long been discontinued. I might also suggest the current-generation SmartThings Multipurpose Sensor, but it normally costs more and doesn't sound like you'd use any of the other features it offers.
First, you have to note which version you are referring to.
Mine are all v2 (2016) and have been retired from active use because of poor battery life with CR2450s. I was getting 9-14 months battery life in a location where the door was opened about once a month.
The newer v3 ones (now branded Aeotec) still use the same batteries.
And I don't generally need vibration and tilt in a contact sensor, so why pay for that extra cost?
I have a mix of v2 and v3, but mine all last over a year on one CR2450 battery without any issue. How long do your other contact sensors last? I do wish I could find decent rechargeable 2450 batteries.
I bought my sensors at £20 in sales, so ok value I think even if I only use them for contact and temperature. But I find the vibration pretty useful as I use it as an alert for if someone is tampering with my sash windows or doors, or if someone is knocking on the door. I dont have a tilting garage door, so have only used the tilt on my letter box flap, which works fine.
The V5 (now Aeotec) must be very sensitive to mesh strength or temperature fluctuation or something. I have one (V4) that’s been on my front door since 2018 and has only required 3 battery changes. I have another (V5) that might go a year when it was mounted on my closet door, but since ditching MyQ and moving it to use on the garage door it only lasts a few months. I tried a Zooz sensor in the same spot and it only lasted a week before the battery died, so I’m hesitant to replace the V5.
I have dozens of the Iris v2 contract sensors and disposable CR2 batteries last over 3 years. I installed 50 of them in May 2020 and I'm just now replacing those batteries! I'm putting rechargeable CR2s in them now, and those last 1.5 to 2 years.
I looked at some rechargeable CR2450s, and didn't find them compelling at all. External double AAA battery boxes are probably a better (albeit large and ugly) solution.
I have switched exclusively to aqara door contacts as unpopular as that may be. They have always been rock solid for me so I recently standardized to them for all exterior and interior doors.
Reliability,cost,size and battery life is insane (in a good way lol)
3 years is great, I havent seen any Iris sensors here in the UK. Which rechargeable CR2 are you using? I'm trying out some LiFePO4 300mhA Soshine CR2 at the moment, but have only had them 3 months, so too early to tell how long they will last.
Hope it's ok to keep adding to this thread. I just got the Aeotec Door/Window Sensor 7 Pro.
Setup was easy. Include was easy. It's pretty small. Attaching it to my garage door was easy. Swapping it out in the condition for my "garage door left open" rule (which the recent Genie update broke) was easy.
Zwave Door Sensor Window Sensor, Z-Wave Plus Enabled Aeotec 3-1 Door Window Sensor 7 Pro, Zwave Hub Required, Gen 7, White (Door / Window Sensor 7 Pro) Amazon.com
The one thing I don't like about it is it isn't LR.... I found the zooz indoor/outdoor LR to be really good, but for windows I've exclusively used the XFINITY XHS2-UE sensors. Small, batteries last a year and they're only $4.00 each on ebay (41 bux for a lot of 10). they also have temp... 4.00 bux vs 46.00 is a huge deal.
You had recommended these a while back. I picked up 20 and could not be happier. Then I think about what they cost and then............wouldn't you know it, I'm happier.
My only beef with them is that they report 100% battery no matter what (even when totally dead). But the batteries last an impressively long time, and I just use Device Activity Check to tell me when a battery is actually dead (i.e. no reports recently received).
But for the price and overall excellent performance, the battery-reporting thing is no big deal at all -- it's just something to be aware of.
I'm well aware of lithium vs alkaline EOL performance/reporting disparities. I use lithium exclusively for my smart devices (coin cell or otherwise), and these devices are the only ones that never budge from 100% at any point.
It's a reporting issue unique to these devices -- I'm not convinced an alkaline would be any different for these. But again, it's totally no big deal at all -- as long as you're just aware of it, there are tools like DAC that work great to help keep an eye on 'em.
I used to track & monitor battery %s in a corresponding dashboard for all my battery stuff, but I don't bother anymore... The lithium drop-off in any given device is just too wonky to try to "game" when it's time to replace.
I now just rely on DAC exclusively** to tell me when a battery device is dead -- life is much simpler that way.
** - except for my smart lock. Like my (dumb) smoke detectors, I replace those batteries annually as an abundance of caution.
I also use the XFINITY XHS2-UE (which are really Visonic MCT-350) sensors.
Primarily for door contact, but I also use use them in my fridges and freezer (suitably encased in plastic), to indicate if the door has been left open.
I (also) keep an eye on them with the Device Activity Report.
I use a threshold of 12 hours - no report means that I have to take a look at the device (usually that means the battery needs to be replaced.
