Chamberlain garage button mod for local control

I just moved to a new house and had a working Linear GDZ Z-Wave garage door opener at my old place that I brought with me. However I have noticed my new house has the chamberlain smart openers. So I canโ€™t use the Linear box directly as it is has those wall boxes that use 24v.

I found the YouTube video below which is a guy that had the same issue as me but he used the GDO remote and soldered the 2 wires from the linear z-wave controller to the button that opens the door. Seems to work and since I have extra remotes I think this would be my best solution? What do you guys think?

There is an app on the hubitat site that I use to operate my Chamberlain opener. Use this link.

since that post is 8 months old, i would doubt that the person is still looking for a solution. :slight_smile:

Maybe I 'm missing the point but the drivers are here for the MYQ.

or this one

Yeah....the post you responded to was from January.

I attempted this yesterday. Everything seems correct, good sodder connection and other wires connected. But I am getting a slow blink on the Multi function controller. The video is not longer available but curious if you experienced this.

I haven't seen anything like that, sorry.

Which device exactly is blinking?

The pictures at the top show how to hook up to the microswitches in the MyQ controller. I circled the terminals the OP used in the photo below. I have never done this particular mod, so I am assuming they did this correctly.

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The Multi-Function Wall controller is blinking slowly.

So thinking that the unit was damaged somehow, I went ahead and removed the wires (Not shorted at the time) from the two locations circled. BOOM! No more slow blink. Do a little more testing I did find that the one location on the right (D10) and the one closest to D7 also triggered the door, going to try those now for fun.

I have multiple momentary switches connected to a terminal strip in my set up and I just want those to still work.

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Quick Update,

Did some additional troubleshooting last night. The issue seemed to be the doorbell style relay.

I reattached and only tested with just the wires attached to nothing, then 1 by 1 added in one of the 5 buttons I already had in place. The first three were flush mounted actual relay momentary switches and worked fine.

Then added an old doorbell switch and got a slow blinking light again. Just going to replace the doorbell style ones and then everything is working like it should.

Thank you for the responses.

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What type of adapter did you use to power the battery powered garage door opener? Thanks in advance.

Skip the battery powered opener and pick up a chamberlain/liftmaster 883LM. They're like $10. Do the same thing and solder to the board, then use the 2 terminals on the back and plug it in to the garage door motor. That keeps it powered. Grab a zip tie and attach it to the metal frame holding the motor and you're done.

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Thanks but doesn't the manufacturer require only one button? How did you connect the existing wall button and this secondary button to the motor terminals? Any pictures? Thanks

You can connect multiple buttons to the terminal block. Just connect the second/third button to the same terminals as the first button.

Exactly what I did. Plugged them both into the same terminals.

I'm using a pair of GoControl units, if I had to do it again I'd use a Zooz Zen16 multi-relay. Can do up to 3 doors with this one for half the price of 1 GoControl unit and probably better long term reliability.

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Cool guys, appreciate all the help. I think safety code mandates a visual blinking light and alert sound when automatically closing. Something to think about if considering the multi relay switch. I get what you are saying about cost though.

You are correct. But at the same time there's the safety sensors on the rails and the resistance sensor in the motor that reverses if it hits anything. So I can't say I'd be overly concerned about not having the annoying beep, the flashing lights and the delay that's caused by them.

Any issues if I go with a 883LMW vs 883LM? Anyone know the difference? Thanks!

They're both Security+ 2.0 - there may be cosmetic differences between the two, but none that matter functionally.