3 ups and 3 downs is the factory rest. That also does not work. I and going to get a longer data cable and extension cord and see if the hub being closer makes a difference. All of my other devices show on the log but the exclusion never shows up. I also had a issue setting up some ecolink sensors. I eventually got the sensors to connect but is seams like the same type of issue.
I've heard others complain about the Ecolinks - hard to exclude. Mine were new out of the box when I added them to Hubitat and I had no problem (but didn't have to exclude them).
3 month update.
I've now changed out switches for all ceiling fans, fan lights, hallway, kitchen, living room, bedroom, dining room & game room. They are all the same GE switches + my 3 original zooz which I took out of 3way install and repurposed them for single switches. Every single one of the GE switches (15 total. Not counting the add on switches for 3-4 way) paired straight away with my Smart things. It all ties together perfectly with Google, Arlo, Harmony. I love the control it gives over the whole house. Next up is the thermostat & alarm. I wish things had worked out with Hubitat but I believe that a tech is susposed to simple and hastle free. For my situation, that is smart things.
Very happy to hear you've found a workable solution.
I read that article too and I can hardly wait for it to be true. The really great news for me is that because it's very far from true, I'm employed. 
I had great luck Joining my devices to SmartThings too a couple years ago. I remember buying it just to get the Linear Garage Door Opener to join to something. Unfortunately it was slightly longer than a month after getting it to Join, before it moved my Garage Door for the first time. 
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My ecolinks we're new our of the box just like the ge switches. I think it is time for hubitat to admit there is a issues and determine the root cause. Every new device I get I have a pairing issue. I am repeatedly told I need to exclude the new device and now to find out the excused device never showed on the hub log. I would like to know the root cause of the issue. If the hub needs to be 1ft from the device to exclude I would like to know.
"Reset" may not be functionally equivalent to "Remove" or "Exclude".
I have tried both the remove/reset and the restore to factory. Neither work. I will try to move the hub closer tonight.
I just recently moved my Zwave stuff from HomeAssistant to Hubitat. Most of my switches are GE. Even the farthest device from either hub (HomeAssistant and Hubitat) removed cleanly and added cleanly. My home has steel siding, which is great when you have lots of hail, but terrible for radio signals. (Inside our little Faraday cage we have no cell reception) The furthest GE dimmer is about 75 feet from the hub in a shed. I have a good string of wired Zwave devices between hub and the outdoors. I had no problem with my laptop in the shed adding to Hubitat. If you can't exclude from your old hub, do a factory reset. It does work if you do it correctly. As I recall, it is a somewhat rapid 3 taps (read the manual) and you may need to do it more than once. The include will not work no matter how close you move it to the hub until you have it properly excluded or reset.
Does anyone know if the switch should work as normal before paring? Will the lights turn on and off with the switch when first powered up? Or does it need to be paired before it will work?
The switch should work as a switch as long as it has power. No need to pair.
That was the clue I needed. The line and load we're backwards on the switch. Once that was switched everything worked as intended. I excluded the switch with one push up. It showed on the log. I paired by clicking discover device and then one push up. Thanks for all the help.
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Glad you are up and going. A pain when things don't work as expected.
I put in the dimmer version yesterday. I noticed it comes with short screws for the switch plate. At first the switch was sporadic. I notice I used one of the old longer plate screws. Changing out the screw helped. Also does any one know what the side to side switch below the normal switch does?
Air gap, maybe?
Isn't that the dimmer?
That is the air gap. Pull it out to cut power to the switch.
The plate screw doesn't penetrate the switch electronics compartment. If you are experiencing sporadic operation and you don't have many devices, start looking at how you are building out your mesh. Zwave radio signals are greatly reduced for every wall, 2x4, sofa, refrigerator etc that they pass through. Look at the connection of your devices to hub from the devices perspective. If you do have lots of devices, give them a day or two to find their neighbors. You might run want to Zwave repair.
I just bought a GE Enbrighten Z-wave smart switch (46202) and can't pair it with the Hubitat. I tried switch reset, Z-wave exclusion and anything else I could find, prior to doscover mode.
Here is a possible fly in the ointment. The switch that was there prior was a switch to no where. It came like that when I bought the condo, even the electrician couldn't find what it was doing. Behind the switch was hot neutral and ground. I simply wired those three wires into this new switch, with the intention of using the switch as a wireless trigger to a z-wave outlet. That way I could turn on the celing light plugged into the outlet and control it from this wireless switch. I already have the outlet turning on and off via Alexa commands.
If the switch has hot, neutral and ground, is that enough to connect to the hubitat?
Are you sure that is what those wires are? More likely it is a switch loop for turning on and off an outlet somewhere. Picture of the switch box and the wiring in question would probably help.
But yes, if your switch does have power and neutral and ground, it should work.
That switch appears to have an indicator light on it (that little oval plastic next to the toggle) that should light up if the switch is on. Does that do anything?
