I have a bunch of the Iris smart outlets scattered across my home. They are controlled via zigbee, but repeat both zigbee and zwave signals...and Lowes has been giving them away lately. I got a bunch for $10 each...still have 2 in the HA overflow drawer 
I have 2 BE469 schlage and they work perfectly with them.
https://m.lowes.com/pd/Iris-120-Volt-White-Smart-Plug/1000308517
Oh wow, I have that exact outlet about 15 feet from the lock. Should that be working or should I go closer?
I honestly don't know. The only way to troubleshoot mesh issues reliably is with a mapping tool of some kind. The lock could be routing through any repeater. I have no idea what's the best way to test and I use what makes sense in my head (not necessarily what's accurate). I have had success with the Iris, so I would leave that in place and remove the honeywell. Then do a repair and test. Do you have a lot of non-battery zwave devices (outlets, switches, etc)? Anything incompatible along the path could break the mesh.
Also, when I first connected my HE hub, I had a smart outlet in the same closet to reset my modem... that caused weird issues with my other devices. I removed that outlet and things stabilized.
I have two Honeywell outlets, the Iris outlet and a Dome shutoff valve, so not too much. I can experiment with removing the Honeywell and moving the Iris closer to the lock.
Oh and you’re using Generic ZIgbee outlet for the Iris?
There are conflicting reports about those Iris Smart Outlets and ZWave. No question they are good for Zigbee.. the controversy is only on the ZWave side, and it's polar opposites: some say they work great, others say they cause a lot of "noise" on the mesh.
Me, I can close my eyes and invent a story that winds through both data points: Small ZWave networks, that have plenty of headroom for "noise packets" think they are great. More dense ZWave networks, that are already seeing the occasional collision/retransmit (aka slow downs that suddenly catch up everything)
cannot handle the extra traffic and the "noise" harms more than the good it does as a repeater. Probably because a dense network already has enough repeaters.
That's a complete work of fiction, but leans on the two datapoints we have. 
Locks are special creatures and must join securely and then, because they are battery BUT also direct human interfaces, the ZWave spec has special features added on. First is Whisper Join in which the lock lowers it's transmit power to the point where a hub must be very close.. a foot away to 3 feet, some say 5 feet. This feature is only used during a Join so that the encryption keys cannot be "overheard."
Second is Beaming and it is a AC powered device that will assist a battery device nearby. At a high level, it "stores" the commands being sent to a Lock, and then does all the work of retransmitting it in the hopes of catching the Lock when it wakes in it's save the battery cycle.
A specific Lock can use one or both, but shouldn't use none.
Try to join it normally first. If you have a beaming device nearby and it doesn't demand Whisper, you're good! IF that doesn't work, assume Whisper and move the hub and lock close... not touching, try 1 ft, 3 ft.
If that doesn't work, I'd really suggest 'hitting the books' and look up the devices surrounding the Lock's location and verify you have a functional beaming device within 12 ft. (Less if there are obstructions, such as walls, doors, mirrors, metal duct work, etc.) Of course, best to lookup the Lock too and verify it supports beaming.
https://products.z-wavealliance.org/products/311/embedpics
and then for Iris:
https://products.z-wavealliance.org/products/1492/embedpics
Yes. You also need to add the zwave component for it do do any zwave repeating. If you haven't done this yet, it can be tricky. You need to put the outlet in zwave pairing mode by pressing the little power button 10 times really quickly. What usually works for me is this:
Put the hub in zwave pairing mode.
Then tap the power button on the outlet at least 10 times really quickly. Hopefully you will see the hub find the device. If it doesn't get added as a Zwave Repeater device type, then change it manually. As usual..do a zwave repair and test.
I really thought this was going to do the trick! I have the Iris as a zwave repeater device now, it’s about 3 feet from the lock and still the lock will not work. Headed out, so will leave it for a few hours and maybe by some miracle it’ll be better later
Did you remove the honeywell and do a repair?
Yep. The second one is in the garage... I’ll remove it just in case
No luck. Only zwave device plugged in at this point is the Dome valve.
I'm all out of options for you.
support@hubitat.com might be your only recourse unless someone else jumps in with a solution.
I got some unexpected (it’s Christmas!) help from Bobby on the support team today. We tried using my Zooz Zen15 power switch as the sole repeater, excluding all other outlets, and it still didn’t work. Also tried doing a secure join with the Zooz. Still stuck. Too many hours sunk into this one issue, I’m probably tabling it for now and moving on to other things with the hope someone sees this thread and has the answer.
I haven't had any issues connecting my 3 FE599NX lever locks but they are not reporting events outside of battery. They have to be refreshed manually. I can control (lock/unlock) and set codes, but cannot make the lock report events like local lock/unlock events.
I'm afraid it might be time to ditch these things.
May I ask what you are using for repeaters?
Me? I've got a mix of 40+ GE Z-Wave (plus & non-plus) wall switches/dimmers, 40+ Iris plugs, and the hubis about 6 feet from one of the locks.
Gotcha, big system and clearly different from where I’m at, but just can’t understand why every Zwave device in my house can get data reliably except the lock.
One other thing, did you need to secure join your devices for repeating to work with the Schlage?
FYI.. Repeaters do not need to be securely joined to repeat secure messages
Anyhow, it’s a missing “feature” of the stock driver. Works great on my ported driver, but code setting does not for now l will live with changing the driver anytime I need to change codes.
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the info!
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