Having said that, in my case, i avoided all Aquara devices like the plague, and for Zigbee, at this point i have just a few Hue, Samsung & Sonoff sensors, mostly Motion, and maybe 3 Zigbee buttons left.
All my other Zigbee devices are hard wired, and I'm pretty sure the devices that have plagued my network are likely hard wired.
Given I've been running C4, C5, C7 &C8 hubs and I've never seen a Zigbee Radio bounce up and down like a kid on a pogo stick until recently, I'm inclined to think "bad device" not bad hub. I'm also going to find it. WAF is dependent on reliability, thus bouncing Zigbee Radios are not conducive to WAF.
@bobbyD Has anyone ever looked into temperature? I have this problem from time to time. It is usually due to the hub being stressed for something else. To me, it makes sense that a stressed hub gets hot and the Zigbee chip may just not like higher temperatures.
Is there any way to monitor the hub temperature? I do not see any. With my computer, I can monitor the temperature of my CPU, my GPU, my RAM, my SSDs, and the motherboard chipset, but temperature does not show up in the hub details.
If temperature is a potential issue, will there be even more issues with the C8 Pro hubs since the CPU is much faster?
Yes, but we didn't find a correlation between higher temp and Zigbee going offline since C4 hubs. Most cases were traced to mix of devices causing the problem or, in rare cases a radio malfunction.
Replacing the C8-Pro with my C5 solved all of zigbee problems. Now I am moving all of the zigbee off to my C7. Once done with this I will replace the C5 with the C8-Pro again. Then when done with that I will start moving the zigbee back on to the C8-Pro in groups to see if I can isolate which device(s) are causing the issues.
2/3 of my devices are z-wave. So I plan to either replace the zigbee devices with zigbee devices that are known to not cause issues or move them to Z-wave. I do need to leave some devices around to maintain a mesh for the devices I can't switch - two heated floor thermostats, a bunch of blinds, etc.
What are devices that people have had luck with? I am mostly looking for plug in modules that also repeat well.
Wish the Habitat crew would really look into this issue. I'm sure more people are having sporadic issues with their zigbee devices. I for one had both c5 and c7 hubs with no issues with either, but after paying big bucks for the C8 pro, have Siglend bulbs and Smartthings Water leak detectors dropping off and joining again in 2 days or so. I thought the antenna's were to help with connections. It's funny that it's only 2 bulbs and 2 water sensors that have had issues and everything else is working great and fast. Never had these issues with my older C5 and C7 hubs .
My Innr plugs have been reliable performers (and repeaters) - they are ZB3.0.
For me, one of the things that really helped with my C8/8Pro zigbee issues was making sure that ALL repeaters (i.e. mains-powered) devices were ZB3.0 (not ZHA 1.2). I still have some ZHA1.2 battery devices, but all repeaters are 3.0 from reliable manufacturers.
How certain are you of that? I've actually been trying to determine which ZigBee protocol/spec/version the Jasco outlets use. There are zero markings on the units I have (43132s,) the manual does not say, and the official Jasco webpage is long gone. I did find one reseller's page that claimed it was 3.0, but I'm not totally sold on that being authoritative.
I just checked the GE/Jasco website and they do claim that the 43102 is a Zigbee 3.0 device.
However, I seem to remember the box that mine came in, and I thought that it said ZHA 1.2.
Perhaps it used to be ZHA1.2, and now is Zigbee 3.0. (I'm guessing here.)
Until I know more conclusively, I hereby retract my earlier comment about this device being ZHA1.2.
Sorry, I wasn't intending that to be argumentative, but I've been wondering about those units as long as the 1.2 vs 3.0 vis-à-vis the C-8 series conversation has been going on.
As you say, Jasco's documentation says the 43102 is 3.0, and I just found the CSA listing where both the 43102 (as ZB1001) and the 43132 (as ZB1002) are certified as 3.0. I think we can claim that both are? / could-be? 3.0 units.
Still today, I'm upset with the zigbee compatibility on C8. Many Tuya devices pair nicely on C7 but pair with "no data" on C8. I really would like to have only one hub. What is the real issue on hubitat's C8 chip? Some may say: "those devices don't follow the standard". OK, but C7 talked with them nicely. I don't want that feature/bug on C8.
Although I would enjoy a little more interaction from the Hubitat team on this issue I am not convinced that they can do anything, other than add their expertise. I have read many posts with other platforms, Home Assistant for example, where people have similar issues. One bad actor on your network and it can bring down anyones radio.
Since I have become a pro at moving devices back and forth between C5, C7, C8 and C9-Pro I can definitively say that I have not cracked the issue. I am offloading all of my zigbee onto my C7 now as it just works. I don't know what the downside is of not using the 3.0 radio is - presumably there are some capabilities that I am not away of that I should want to use?
To be honest, I had really high hopes for the C8 but it’s been harder to work with than the 5yr old Samsung Smartthings I had. If I could get my money back, I would but it’s too late. Just gotta ride out this hub as I don’t have the money to keep buying tech toys. I tread adding smart devices to this unit.
I will second this. On my C7 hub, I had a couple of Aqara devices which I got working by replacing some older HA 1.2 smartswitches which did not repeat the Aqara signals properly.
The older Aqara did not play nicely with the Zigbee 3.0 radio in the C8. After replacing the Aqara devices with Zigbee 3.0 devices, connections are stable .
There are some Aqara devices that claim to be Zigbee 3.0, but earlier devices are not even fully Zigbee 1.2 compliant.
