This will add the Libraries code only. You must also manually install the Apps code and Drivers code. Following that, you must install the User App. Adding the code to the hub just makes it available for install, it does not install the App.
If you are finding all of this too complicated, or having too many steps, then I will once again strongly encourage you to watch the video and learn the steps needed to install the community built Hubitat Package Manager. It is a completely safe app to install and it will help you easilly search for community built applications and drivers, including installing, removing, updating and expanding their capabilities. Very worthwhile to add it to your hub. You will wonder why you didn't do it sooner.
If you are struggling with the steps to install Hubitat Package Manager, please reach out in the Hubitat Packager Manager thread. There are fantastic community members here, who will be very willing to help you.
That's exactly what I'd expect if you did what your screen cap is showing. You're trying to install something ending in "git" and bundles don't use that.
I am going to ask here, just because this is my last hope, but I am basically certain I know the answer.
I have 2 window rolling shutters with 3 buttons, Up, Down, Stop. After repeated failed attempts to clone them in the original app, I have noticed that:
The frequency is correct
It reads the button code
It doesn't work
I decided to go through hubitat, because debugging, and 2 things struck me:
a) the code is HUGE. Is this normal? 300-600 bytes. I assume 600 is a 2-sender.
b) Every time I learn the code, it's different. I assumed some errors, but stacking it, it seems that certain bytes shift up every press, some shift down and there is a section where it does a bunch of zeroes and then what looks like a CRC/ECC of sorts.
This looks to me like a code hopping remote. Just to confirm, I am boned, right? Either I use the original remote or I wire the motor directly.
Sorry you’re having a rough go of it. I saw this with my ceiling fan when I first set it up. Some longer codes worked, while shorter did not. And the reverse was true with other buttons. Results were always slightly different, yet oddly two codes that were not identical could work equally well.
It took a bit of experimenting and confirming codes many times to find the results that were consistent with all the control I wanted from Hubitat.
I successfully install the driver but i just have the temperature see the picture, I don't know what I did wrong
When I test the IR code and the RF code it works
The temp you are seeing is from the sensor on the cord of the RM 4 Pro. Its the only input you will see. All other functions are output to control your devices only, with no status feedback of any kind. That’s how IR and RF control works. You’re getting everything you can get from this type of control.
The README file for this app provides the basic information for capturing codes. The you can use Rule Machine or Button Controller to send codes as desired.
tomw shows an example of how that Send action is set up in Rule Machine up in post #171.
Great driver and app, @tomw. Thanks! I was able to teach it multiple remotes successfully, but I am having issues with the Smartwings RF remote and have a couple of questions.
For background, holding the remote button down during sweep always results in timeout. But if I hit the button quickly I can get it to detect the frequency. Dr. Google says the frequency should be 433.92Mhz but it is always detected in the 433.8* range. When I try to teach it a button, it always times out. The RM4 Pro is 8 feet away with clear line of sight.
Is the difference in frequency detected significant? If so, is there a way to set it manually with a debugging code or other hidden dev parameter?
If 433.8* is close enough, any tips on what might prevent button press detection? Any known issues with Smartwings remotes? I thought it might be able to detect the frequency with the button-mash method but failing on the codes because the freq is not quite right.
