There are a few options for you the Dome being one. The Zooz being another. Also look into the Bulldog. And if your ball valve moves with ease, then there are a number of inexpensive choices on AliExpress like this one:
I have 2 of the Dome shut offs. They work fantastic & are very reliable.
I also like them because I can change the shutoff valve whenever I want/need but with leaksmart or other integrated valves, you'll require a very expensive part. I do have a leaksmart but only connected it to monitor it. It stayed connected for a year without issue, but don't even know IF you can get replacement valves. FYI the only listing on Amazon for leaksmart is $450.00 !
Yo-Link has a shutoff for 300, and someone has built a yo-link -> HE integration
Zooz ZAC36 in the basement here and it seems to work good. Has a strong antenna, some devices route through it from the main floor, it is directly below the hub. It has a temp sensor and a leak sensor included. I have the leak sensor up against my DHW since it is right next to the shut off.
When they installed my new meter, they installed 2 valves. One before and one after the meter..... Easy to work on... (Also lucky they used a 1" meter)
Because I have an inline valve, I added a ball valve right after it, in case the inline valve failed in the open position. I also added a loop around the inline valve with a ball valve, which is usually shut. This ball valve can be opened to restore water off if the inline valve fails in the closed position.
I think this setup is essential for any automated inline valve. And, is a non-issue for valve controllers like the Dome.
Moved from dome to this. There is a gear that will go bad over time and break. In addition, how it mounts is less stress on the solderrd joints too. It does work well even with stiff values.
Mention should be made of the FortrezZ Watercop Z-Wave Valve.
Pro: It is the strongest device I've seen for actually turning a valve and shutting off the water.
Con: Most of the ones you find on eBay and such are 2013 models built for AT&T Digital Life systems. The Z-Wave was very unreliable, and it would drop off the mesh in a day or so. The 2019 model (which I have) is by comparison much more reliable, but it is still non-Plus Z-Wave and is about 90% reliable to be on the mesh when you need it. Nevertheless, I have it plugged into a smart plug and power cycle it daily, and also in the automation to close the valve, I close it and then power cycle and close again. On my to do list is to wire the physical open/close buttons on it to ZEN17 relays, thus essentially converting it to a Z-Wave+ device.
Any like the leaksmart that are inline micro valves as opposed to the arm that turns.have been super reliable for me. I use this one. They are pricy though. I have had issues with the arm turn ones not opening or closing all the way.
I don't have Sinopé Sedna yet. But I have seen one and played around with it. It is a really nice valve. And supports a flow meter. Definitely the highest on my list for when I replace my LeakSmart.
I had a chilled water system project in a data center where it would take too long to refill the system if we drained it. We hired a contractor who specialized in freezing water lines to freeze it so we could cut it and weld in new flanges. It was an 8" line. They talked about freezing 24" lines. It just takes more N2 and time.
If you have a cutoff valve to your condo only, can't you turn off the water to your condo, and leave it off while you (or a plumber) installs a second, inline valve right after turned off valve, on your side?
If not, I also have a ball valve and use the Dome. I try to turn it on and off every few months to be sure the Dome can turn the ball valve. I could automate it, but I prefer to watch it to ensure it is working.
Ball valves are generally more reliable (tighter seal) and last longer than gate valves, so you have that going for you.