Has anyone tried this Aqara zigbee light switch with Hubitat., The description for it indicates that you must have an Aqara Zigbee hub... but i dont know it thats truly the case or if Hubitat would work ..
Let me know if you have any experience with this ..
Thanks
Ha, which one, they make like 17 types. There are drivers for many aqara switches and buttons. Post a model number and we can check.
If it's one of the newer Zigbee 3.0 switches, it will likely work, but if it's the older type, there are mixed reports, as previous generation Aqara devices do not follow the Zigbee Alliance specs and can cause zigbee mesh problems
The model is WS-USC03. According to the online specs it uses zigbee v3.
its on amazon
Good it's Zigbee 3.0. Try one of these drivers, they work very well
Did those drivers work?? If like to replace my lutrons with those switches!! Half the price lol.
Aqara wall switches are not officially supported in Hubitat… My advice will be to stay with Lurton.
The problem with Lutron if you don't want a dimmer the switch is $110 or more depending on where you purchase. Take that over a house full of switches that will be costly. Lol. I had one Lutron and couldn't get any bulbs around here except the most expensive dimmers to work correctly with it so I returned it. Do you know if in Hubitat if you can turn the dimming function on and off to make the dimmer work as a normal on/off switch? That way normal bulbs would work. If not has there been any advancement on the driver's for the Aqara switches. I have a driver installed for the contact sensors but I don't have an extra switch to try it with.
On/off switches (smart or dumb) utilize a relay to send full 100% load power out when on. Dimmers (smart or dumb) do not use a relay -- they just vary load power out according to the dimming level, and even at "max" most (all?) dimmers do not send quite 100% load power.
Inovelli tried marketing their new Blue/Red series as a "2-in-1" (switch and dimmer), but that marketing ploy fell flat... It's simply a dimmer that can be programmed to act like a switch, but it doesn't have a relay. That nuance may not be important to many users, but it's a critical distinction in cases where a no-kidding on/off switch is required instead of a dimmer (fans, motor loads, or any non-dimmable load).
Where are you located that your prices for Lutron Caséta switches are so high? Here in the US, the Claro switches are about $64, and switches using the original Caséta design are $60.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wallplate-Lighting-Required-DVRFW-5NS-WH/dp/B0BSHS5YSL/
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/
As both of these are genuine switches, unlike the Caséta dimmers, they will work with any LED bulb.
I am in the US as well. You are correct if you are willing to use a dimmer then you can get the switches for the roughly $65 dollar range. The problem comes in that if you need a "no neutral required" single pole rocker. None of the big box stores carry them in stock. Neither does Amazon. They must be ordered from specific websites and they range anywhere from $110 to $145 depending on the site. That was as of about 3 weeks ago.
I am just not a fan of dimmers. No one in the house is so they don't work for me. Lol. I didn't realize the difference. Thank you for the explanation.
Yeah, that no-neutral Caseta switch is pricey. No-neutral smart switches are rare and usually expensive (assuming you stay away from cheap junk that's not UL or ETL certified).
After watching my neighbor's house get destroyed by janky wiring, I wouldn't ever put non-UL/ETL certified devices on (wired) mains-power, but some folks are more adventurous than me.
The links I had were to switches not dimmers. And, the prices quoted were also for switches.
Correct. Also, no neutral switches rely on leaking current to the load. Not all loads tolerate that.
Yes, it is the no neutral I was referring too. Problem is most homes around this area were built before the code change so we have to have no neutral switches.
I agree I will not put any main power devices in that are not UL/ETL certified. That really narrows it down. The problem is the most cost efficient one I can find is the Aqara. A lot of them out there but not certified. My home burnt as a kid and I don't want to go through that again if I can keep from it.
Put Hubitat-compatible zwave or zigbee relays in the workbox for the fixture. And replace the wall switches with button controllers, like Picos.
Aeotec, Sonoff, and several other manufacturers make UL/ETL certified relays meant to be installed in workboxes.
This way, the actual switching device doesn’t need to leak current to load for the switching device to be powered. Because the fixture workbox will have a neutral (otherwise the fixture can’t be AC powered).
Hi, I have been using 12 Aqara E1 switches (2 gangs neutral) and 2 non neutral with the generic multiend switch driver for a couple of months. So far so good...no customization like decoupled mode but the most important for me was power off memory which is activated by default.
Have you tried this community driver?
Update: this driver works OK with this Aqara switch module LLKZMK12LM lumi.switch.acn047
Download the Hubitat app
