Those are almost the only ones compatible, don't buy the sensors from ikea nor the button controllers, they will not work. The zigbee lights are ok using generic Zigbee drivers if you don't mind having your lights act as repeaters. I have a few of them and work ok for the price without no issues as of now.
But the plugs are just relays, they will not report consumption like the pricier ones.
I like the ZEN15, and it handles up to 1800W/15A. But it also is said to use much more rugged internal parts than other smart plugs, even if the rating is the same. It does have energy monitoring which is fairly reliable except for once in a great while when it reports values that are not even possible (rare, but I've see it many times).
@csteele Be carefull the Enbrighten 55256 is 1000W on the zigbee side, 1800W total. This would not work and most likely would catch on fire!
Maximum Load for Z-Wave Controlled Outlet:
960W Incandescent
1/2 HP Motor
1800W (15A) Resistive
Yes, the load is deterministic Thanks for the reminder. 
Space heater... with or without fan?
I use two of these for two 1500watt heaters. I will say though, I've used a bunch of switches and they all handle the 1500w heaters fine.
Which ones? I did t see a link
The zooz zen15. I have also used the sylvania plugs, the ikea plugs, zooz plugs, zooz powerstrip, and iris plugs. All handle my heaters fine. I think handling electric motors is a bigger issue for light duty switches.
Pretty sure that electric motors of any notable size create quite a surge at start up and stop. That can cause an arc across the contacts of the relay/switch, etc. if it's not specifically designed for an inductive load like that.
There are also issues with LED lighting--what I'm seeing indicates they get as much as 6 times more initial current draw than an incandescent bulb (or, about 100 times the normal operating current) for about a millisecond or so.
Most switches and plugs are rated for some sort of HP, usually a 15A (1800W) plug will be rated for a 1/2 HP motor, switches will usually be more around 1/3 HP. Usually you will find this info on the back side of the switch and/or documentation that came with it.
Yes this is true, but is nothing like a motor, and some LED lights have circuitry to reduce this effect but not all and certainly not based on price either from what I have seen.
Isn’t this already in 2.2.4?
There are a few threads left here that arent referencing anything about a hubitat firmware version.. This is just discussing hardware (irrespective of version or driver).
I use Aeotec Smart Switch 6's with portable air conditioners and found they can easily handle the large compressor and fan startup currents associated with those devices. Several others i tried could not. The Zooz 15 appliance switches also worked well.
@rdstov, not really, in 2.2.4, they introduced a thermostat controller that can take over the smart part of a not so smart "smart thermostat" or enhance it's capabilities buy adding temp sensors to it's decision making.
The app I'm releasing is a virtual thermostat that is controlled 100% in Hubitat via 1 or more temp sensors and can control several outlets/switches for heating and/or cooling. This is mainly for use with portable space heaters to make them smarter. The virtual thermostat can be interfaced with the built in Thermostat Scheduler, via Rule machine, different dashboard apps, etc. It's also Google Home and Alexa friendly just like a regular Zigbee/z-wave thermostat that can be used with Hubitat.
I'm personally using it to control a contactor in my garage because I already had all the hardware laying around instead of buying $400 of thermostats and special contactors to control my heating setup.
Yeah, I wish that, when people post a problem and ask for help, they would provide:
(1) Hubitat model
(2) Hubitat firmware version (the complete x.x.x.x version)
(3) which device (and device firmware and model, if known)
(4) which driver (and version) is being used, and whether built-in or not
Many people don't realize that we post solutions hoping that they will not only solve the poster's problem, but also serve as a reference for others, days and months in the future. Simply saying that they've got "the latest" firmware doesn't help when the post is being read in the future.
Ah cool. So you just check for the power consumption to drop to zero (or close to zero maybe) and that tells you the cycle is over? I thought about a vibration sensor but your approach seems more solid. I don't use my washer/dryer that often (almost never) but when I do I invariably forget something is down there. Will have to experiment with a couple of those. I am fortunate to also have a gas dryer so I bet it would not fry the outlet.
mostly it's a matter of running the machines and then looking at Event History and plot out the power numbers. It's pretty easy to identify the values that you'll need. This many watts, this number of times = End of cycle
@tzoom , As I understand you're asking for a wallswitch that can handle your heater. Maybe this one will do the job:
It is Tuya compatible so I would think someone will be able to help you with a driver.
I USE this for my set of roof coil heaters.. i used the earlier non zwave version prviously
i do use my own device handler for it..
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/lgkahn/hubitat/master/zw15sm.groovey
Finally it's here, I've released the virtual thermostat app I was working hard and testing...
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