Aeotec Nanno Dimmer - Utalise S2

Haven't even needed to with the Aeotec. The driver has an option to set the switch input to momentary. So no RM needed, it just works.

Does the switch have isolation between the lamp L/N and the contact Common and push ie 4 connections?

I believe the inputs are not mains potential on the Fibaro unlike the aeotec dimmer.

Yes, for the load this is the same on the Fibaro and internally it's directly associated. I was talking about the S2 or the double tap of S1.

This is the 2-way model (rather than momentary) but for what you're asking all still applies....

That's ok. Not a deal-breaker to either not have the LED or have it on all the time.
For me the selling point of the Fibaro is the ability to run a 2nd momentary switch for scene/rule control.

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That's why I'm going without the led. Don't need to find them in the dark. Automations take care of that :smile:

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Looks like you got what I was trying to get at with my edit.

It's got separate L/N cable for the lamp so if it's being used for the load you can connect it to the dimmer directly rather than to the switch. It's just the other inputs your not be able to do much with.

@BorrisTheCat

That's what I reckon :+1:

@gbrown Very good point indeed! Some motion sensors, rules and schedules and who needs them.

The Iconic switches have some nice led backlighting though, but yeah gonna avoid leds. I also hate the glass touch switches, much prefer the clipsal mechs. have you tried the saturn mech?

I used to do commercial access control and automation many years ago, back when it was mainly just cbus. I think Saturn was the go to back then so it seems a bit dated to me.
My wife really wants the LEDs though so I might just use them for the downlight switches and then the plain ones for scenes. But yeah, the simple clipsal mechs all the way.

I've got the standard clipsal 2000 plates. I read that those mechs will work with them yeah?

Also, where you based Sam? You're not in Melb are ya?

I'm just testing a few things at the moment while my house is being built so I can roll out exactly what I am happy with once done.
Yep, they fit the 2000 plates, that's what I've got it in at the moment. New house will be Iconic plates. This is downlights on, momentary LED bright....

Yeah I am, northern suburbs of Melb currently.

Nice. Well i'm out east (Ringwood way). Good to see an electrician taking up Hubitat though, and someone who can do what I want to do first so that if you make a mistake you tell me not to. hehe

Haha. I'm mostly a pencil pusher nowadays but still enjoy tinkering on my own stuff.
For sure! Learning from other people's mistakes is how most of us have got this far.
So stay tuned, I have a Qubino and a Fibaro on the way so I'll let you know how I find them.
From what I can tell the Fibaro with the ericm driver can open up a bunch of s2 controls.
However the Qubino seems to support s2 and s3 but contact sensor only so rules and virtual devices might be needed to give button/scene control.
Pros and cons.

Where did you order the fibaro from? How much do they mechs cost?

I generally just keep an eye on eBay and Gumtree for bargains but if needing to buy new and want quickly I use Smart Living. They have a decent range and prices are about standard. Also do express shipping (although a little on the high side). Nice guys. I paid about $90 for the Qubino and $110 for the Fibaro.
Can get better prices if buying bulk (or if shopping around but they have always been great service).
I buy all my plates and mechs etc. from either L&H Electrical wholesalers or Middys. The LED switch as pictured above ranges from $15-$19 depending on where and if a business.

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Sorry bud, this particular mech doesn't latch. It's design to dim (engage) whilst pressed, but it releases once you take your finger off.

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Come on now, Ryan. Really? That is simply unnecessary. I'm sure everyones time here could be spent much more productively. And respectfully.

To address your confusion as concisely as possible...

I never stated that 1 press of the switch latched/closed a common to s1 or s2 circuit and another press released/opened a circuit. I stated 1 press of the switch turned the lights on and 1 press turned the lights off. This works because the device driver for the Aeotec has an option to choose momentary for s1. The switch is a momentary switch. I have it installed and it is working.
A momentary switch is a momentary switch. And 2-way switch is a 2-way switch, and so on. However, you can use different switches in different applications depending on the device and/or programming.
I.e. you can use a momentary switch with one press to turn something on and another press to turn something off without anything 'latching'.
To use your own example. A doorbell, or an intercom to be specific. You can press the momentary call switch to engage (turn on) the camera and microphone and then when done press the switch again to disengage (turn off) the camera and microphone. The switch itself is still a momentary switch. It depends on the application how it is used.
I think you are a bit confused about the different capabilities of different types of equipment. Just because a switch is momentary (non-latching) doesn't mean it can't turn something on and another press of it can't then turn the same thing off.
@BorrisTheCat as a fellow SME are you able to assist with putting this into laiman's terms for @Ryan780

They have both....
Momentary:


2-way (latching):

Yep, I was only looking at the momentary to partner with a dimmer though, so didn't consider the latching one. I'm considering trialing one of the fibaro double switches as well and seeing if the protection parameter can be used to prevent a manual turn off, and then use the S1 / S2 button presses to control smart bulbs as well. (similar to the Zooz switch in the states)