at the risk of sounding like an idiot I will ask for some additional clarification from those of you who have far more experience with the Hub. In looking at the Z-Wave details combined with the Z-Wave Topology Map - I see what looks to be conflicting information. Note in the Topology Map that units 07 and 09 are red in both the horizontal and Vertical rows. But in the Route listing for the device numbers are:
Guest Shower 06
Guest Vanity 07
Guest Bath Fan 09
it looks like even though the Topology Map says that 07 and 09 are not talking to the Hub - the route list shows 01 -> 09 -> xx or just 01 -> 09 in the case of the bath fan.
can someone tell me what I am missing here?
Oh and BTW - 09 is not updating its state when it changes state ( manually or via the app )
so that fact that it may not be talking to the hub might have something to do with that ...
but I am confused to say the least on what I am actually seeing here ... any and all guidance is appreciated
It’s possible the topology is out of date for those devices.. The topology gets updated when a NNUR (Node Neighbor Update Request) is sent to the device.. This is done on inclusion and on repair currently.. I am looking at some background scheduled neighbor updates for future releases.
ok - thanks, I ended up excluding 09 and adding it back in since it was not reporting state correctly - it is now working as expected. and the routes of the other devices have updated to take other paths. And the new added device ID:19 is now talking directly to the hub.
I am not understanding the topology map either. I'm running a C5 and just playing around on my C7 to get ready for migrating. I have a single switch included on my C7. Here's what my topology map looks like.
I thought red indicates that the devices can't communicate. But they are.
Also, I remember someone making an app that makes the zwave network stuff easier to read, but I can't find it. Can anyone tell me what the name is?
Nice description. Thanks. That is really helpful. So I add more Z-Wave devices, in theory I would increase the number of blue dots (Democrats)? And, if there are too many red dots, it means there aren't enough devices in the mesh to create efficient signal routs?
And, if I continue to follow your lead with the political references, the diagonal line could be extrapolated to infer independents? Actually, what does that void of red/blue actually mean?
All of us have ways that allow us to see a picture more clearly... The Topolgy Map is an interesting place to start because if there are too many red dots ("too many" is exactly the subjective value the map is trying to help with) then another tool that might supply more specific advice can be used.
Hubitat Z-Wave Mesh Details can be that other tool. It's color coded to help identify devices that the hub is struggling to reach. Which usually means the other way too.
These are ALL Innovelli Red dimmers. I've had my Hubitat and the dimmers installed since September (it's January) so it's had time to work itself out but I still have a network that is only semi functional.
Is there any advice on what I can do to get this working better?
Could be a variety of issues, but given the peek at your zwave details I'd say you'd probably get a some improvement if you excluded all of the S2's and re-included with no security. If you'll post a screen shot of your zwave details I'm sure you'll get some suggestions.
Reliability and slowness are my issues. For example, in my office I use the action button (that little button on the top right) to set the light to 50%. If I push it, sometimes it will work right away, others, I will push it, wait... And wait... Then just manually turn the light on and sit down. A minute later the light will change to 50%.
Another example is I have a routine where I push that top button again on a switch in the kitchen and it turns off the lights on the main floor, then turns on the lights in the stairwell, upstairs hall and master bathroom. 45 seconds later it turns off the stairwell and hall lights. Half the time, I have to run around and turn them off manually as they just don't turn off.
Finally, if I use the dashboard app to turn on/off/dim lights it will sometimes just not respond at all. Sometimes it will work perfectly.
A screen shot (or 2 or 3..) of the zwave details screen is usually a good place to start as we can get a feel for the device mix, signal strengths, number of hops, number of path changes, etc.
So the good news, no ghosts or unfinished pairings and almost all pairings are at 100kbps. In general you've set up a fairly good mesh. Of interest though, all of your switches are S2 Authenticated, unless there is a reason you want this level of security, you could gain a little less traffic by re-pairing them with Security None - less traffic generally = quicker response. On the weakness side, you have a number of switches with significant numbers of route changes, and a high number of hops on just about all of them. The number of route changes suggests that there may be some level of RF interference or RF dampening (generally due to wall materials or distance) occurring - may consider adding a few dedicated repeaters ~1/2 way between the hub and these switches (one repeater can service multiple devices). If you add repeaters, know that it will take several days (or even weeks) for them to start fully participating - hub and devices will normally only look for them on a route change).
I was looking around to see how to remove S2 authentication but I can't seem to find it anywhere. I've gone through all the device setting and Google but I don't see how. Any advice? The other thing is that it is odd that some of them are S2 and other's aren't. I bought them all at the same time and they came in a 10 pack, so the devices are all the same. It's odd that some are and some aren't...
I was considering a few repeaters but I am unsure if that will help and here's why. If you look at, for example, Office Light it is getting 100kbps but it is one of the problematic switches. The Master bathroom lights are also troublesome but are in the same gang box as the other master bathroom switches which generally work well. I can't help but feel that switches right next to each other should work well, no?
That said, the ones I am having issue with all seem to be S2, so I think you are really on to something.
To change the security you actually need to remove the device and re-include it without security; unfortunately no way of changing it after it's paired.
S2 vs "None" is a choice made during Include. There's a Popup and one of the choices is Skip. Picking "Skip" will yield: "None".
Many devices route through 0x0C(012) and that device has an RTT of 80ms. It has two hops to the hub.
Compare 0x0B and 0x10. Both are direct, but 0x10 has a RTT of 5ms and a RSSI of 2 while 0x0B has a RTT of 30 and a quite bad RSSI of -7 (Minus indicates the signal is weaker than the noise, making communications so much harder.)
These numbers are clues only. They provide hints as to where to look or focus "next."
