While replacing batteries today. I noticed significant corrosion on the provided screws that hold the sensor to the back plate. Apparently they aren't stainless steel? Given they are outdoor units, shouldn't they have stainless screws? At least for the screws outside of the gasket sealed bodies?
I have several more that were set to be installed outside, but this gives me pause because given a couple more months I doubt I could have backed these screws out.
Thanks in advance.
A lot of times the mfg relies on the plating keeping the parts from rusting. Unfortunately once you use a screwdriver on the the plating is compromised. My local Ace hardware store has a great assortment of SS hardware. Anything I put outside is SS. The cost of the screws is far less that the effort to remove a rusted screw.
Thanks for pointing this out. We haven't seen that before but we'll look into it asap. I'll check with our development team to see if we can change the type of screws that come with the sensor.
The cost difference between the two screws is pennies but running with customer feedback to make your products better is priceless.
Exactly right, I'm assuming a zinc plating or something along those lines. Odd in my opinion for something that's supposed to be outside.
Any chance you know the threading and screw size? Thanks in advance!
It should be a standard phillips 5.5 head screw but the best way to match a new one to it is just to take one with you to your local hardware store and ask them for the same size. I'll keep you posted on what I hear from the development team!
It is an M4 x 8 for those who are looking to replace it.
I got some at the hardware store. Interesting, they weren't magnetic. They didn't have Phillips though. Hex I think.
I just installed one by my rear breezeway door after messing around with it, and learning, for a week.
I managed to get the short USB lead into the building wall and siliconed the hole in the wall. I think it's better than having the connection exposed.
Those stainless cap screws from Ace Hardware take a 2mm hex.
I turned off the lux switch and set clear time to 5 seconds. I'm going to use the system sunset to sunrise as well as the simple automation clear time. I left sensitivity to highest, (default), for now.
Even though it doesn't use lux, it still reports lux values every 30 minutes, as I've seen in the log. The frequency of reporting is variable. It varied considerably in my observation, depending on brightness; I think it has potential for input for other stuff.
Changing parameters can be a hassle. To conserve battery, it only wake up every 4 hours. when it passes along the new values. This can be forced by pressing the tamper button three times, (when the unit is dis-mounted), or by disconnecting/reconnecting the power-easy if there's a usb connection inside the house, a hassle to have to dismount to get to the batteries. Sometimes the parameters don't "take" the first time, although that could be me somehow.
I live in a cool climate, so I figured USB power was worth the hassle. Zooz has a 10' cable.
Thanks for sharing your set-up and notes on the functionality @velvetfoot! Very clean installation 
@thekevtoo I'm still waiting for feedback regarding a possible update on the production side but I've taken down the screw size you posted to share with customers in the future, thanks for posting it here!
I just wanted to update you guys that we will be changing the screws for the next production run based on your feedback 
thanks again for helping us make the product better!
I think I will echo what someone else said in another thread. I don't think the lux values are very granular. It goes from max (900) to min (10) pretty quick. Front lights come on very nicely (sunset based), and I notice it more now that daylight savings time has come to an end. Behave just about the same as my previous Heath/Zenith dumb light.
I'm still not understanding how this is an outdoor sensor if it needs to be sheltered when placed outside. Can it be exposed to the elements - heavy rain storms, snow, ice, heat and sub zero weather without being sheltered?
Outdoor devices have different ratings for water penetration just like phones. The higher the rating the more waterproofing/weatherproofing is required. This almost always results in higher costs. Guessing they accepted a lower rating to make the manufacturing process easier and cheaper. Under an eve or porch is a pretty reasonable trade-off for a low cost device. There are steps you could take after getting the sensor to increase the weatherproofing if you really wanted to go diving with it or something.
I agree with @lewis.heidrick. In my experience a device needs to be protected internally. Like a conformal coating of some sort. This is because over time some moisture will get inside and condense.
I have two outdoor lights with motion sensors built in. The sensors are in the shape of a golf ball but a bit larger.
One is under an over hang,
The second one is on the side of the house (by a door) and the overhang is on the 2nd floor. So this one has no protection.
After about 2 years the one under the overhang is fine, the one that is not protected by an overhang malfunctioned.
I took the malfunctioned sensor apart and there was condensed moisture on the internal parts. I cleaned and dried them, put a coat of silicone conformal coating on the parts that could be coated and re-installed in the light. This one has been up for between 2 and 3 years and is working fine.
LOL...I just want it to survive in New England. My use cases are pretty tame and there are no eves or porches available - just siding.
I would rather (and have) pay more for a Hue outdoor sensor that doesn't require it to be sheltered to survive outside. It's like being sold a raincoat and then opening it up and finding a disclaimer that it works great so long as it isn't exposed to direct rain.
If I buy something like the Ecolink PIR and use it outside then that's one me if it doesn't survive the elements. I will however spray it with the urethane spray you recommended first :).
There are options. Just depends on what you're comfortable with. I've seen everything from birdhouse shelters, to baggies. Conformal coating is my favorite, and while it's all apart I usually squirt some silicone along the seams before I button it all back up. Hasn't failed me yet.
That silicone is a good idea too. On a sensor like the Ecolink there seems to be some extra vent like holes on the back. Should I just put electrical tape over them?
Just squirt some silicone in there and you'll be fine. The electrical tape will fail sooner than the silicone.
I live in New England as well this is where my experience came from.
I use spray silicone conformal coating (prefer over urethane) which is not so cheap you would want to purchase a can for one device.
If I didn't have the conformal coat spray I would get some GE silicone II caulk from Home Depot. Be sure it is the II version and doesn't smell like vinegar. This material is safe for PC boards. You will have to put it on with a popsicle stick or similar and can be a mess but it will protect the electronics. It goes without saying you must keep the IR sensor and its path free from the coating.
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