So I just had this happen as well and I did the airgap trick with excellent results. Wife is very happy and I don’t have to replace the original toggle switch (
).
What would cause the need to use the air gap at all?
This just saved me a ton of hassle on a Zen22 this evening. It turned on as expected, but then turned itself off about 1 second later. Didn't matter if it was controlled via the paddle, 3-way switch, or digitally through HE. I needed to keep the air gap open longer, though. My first try was about 5 seconds, which did not work. Then I left it open for about 10 minutes while doing other tasks, which seems to have done the trick.
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Uh oh! Second time that I had to execute this trick in 1 week. Both seem to have been related to physically turning on. It is a rara occurrence. Not good when the wife asks you WTF is going on while she is trying to clean a doggie accident and the light keeps turning off.
Two strikes. Not looking long for this world.
Lutron Caseta because they're tanks and always just work
If I were starting all over again I think that I would just get Caseta dimmers. They cost more but the struggle would be less.
And yet, based on recent posts on the topic, there may be a good possibility that all of our struggles would go away with an external antenna on the HE. I will leave this debate to others.
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch with Wallplate, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | for LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PDW-6WCL-WH-A | White
You can get the combo switch, pico and plate for 69.00 at home depot
I love Lutron, but the Caséta aesthetic and button layout is a non-started for our household.
With great humility, I admit that my issue was seemingly related to rules that I set up for this dimmer. After replacing it, similar symptoms started with the new dimmer. I paused the rule and everything worked as expected. A few tweaks later and all seems good.
All apologies to the Zooz crew. This was entirely my fault.
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