I actually recommend the system driver for the ZSE42. The community driver was made before the system driver was available and there is really not much for settings. I only switch to a modified community driver if I need to change any other settings.
Anyway... reporting is normally only every 12 hours. What firmware do you have? Some of the recent Zooz battery devices early firmware versions had issues with spamming battery reports, especially if the signal was weak or there were a lot of hops. I think they fixed the majority of the issues with current firmware.
Is your feeling the same about the ZSE41 open/close? Prefer the system driver? I am having the same issue with those.
The one ZSE42 that I have is at frn 1.50, the latest from what I can determine.
I have 8 ZSE41's, 6 are at frn 1.40, 1 is at frn 1.30 and 1 does not report what it is at. Updating the firmware on these is a B$%^H with the "Device Firmware Updater" app, especially once installed in their final location. Hate to take them down to move them closer because then you ruin the mounting tape. Would using a Zooz Z-Wave stick make this any easier? I just bought one as they are 20% all today.
Yes I use the system driver on those as well, but it wont help with excessive reporting. Looks like the battery reporting issues were addressed with the 1.30 FW on the ZSE41 so you should be OK there.
Every couple of hours is not the worst that could happen. Before the fixes some people were getting reports every few seconds non-stop. I would just let it sit for a few days with the system drivers and see what the event log looks like.
Yes, you can use PC Controller on a laptop, join the stick as a secondary controller and then to do FW updates from the stick with it right next to the device. I have done this before and it works good. Works with any security level as long as you join the stick with the full S2 permissions.
I suspect that would only happen at a configure, which there is no button for on the system driver. So that would normally only run if the device was reset and paired again using the "replace" feature.
Not that I can recall. I do need to update something though so I could grab some screenshots. Its pretty easy. Just pair it to your hub as a secondary controller, instructions for that are in the ghost removal guide. Once that is done, there is a firmware update section in PC Controller. Pretty self explanatory from there.
I wrote this up and then realized you have battery devices. They are much more of a pain to update using PC Controller as a secondary. I don't have any battery devices on my test hub to confirm the exact steps I have used before. But maybe this will help?
That does seem really easy. That just means I'll spend hours trying to get it to work. Still waiting on my Zooz Stick. USPS is sloooooooow. I'll report back. Thanks again for all your advice.
I typically wake them up right before hitting the "Go" button in PC Controller, then wait a beat and if the FW transfer doesn't start, wake them up again (for Zooz devices, check the manual, but it's typically either 1 button press or 4 button presses depending on the device - I know that the ZSE42s are 4 and the 4-in-1s sensors are 1 press iirc). Obviously this is much easier if you can get a laptop with the Z-Stick close to the device and the device isn't in a spot where it's hard to wake - I have a few mounted pretty high and it's annoying when I have to do this.
edit: @jtp10181, I know you already know all of what I wrote, even though I was quoting/replying to you, my post was mostly for @dale.boyles's benefit.
Update: I was able to update firmware using the Stick as a Secondard Controller. Definately NOT as fast a when the ZSE41 is connected directly to the PC Controller. Also, the slower update rate EATS the battery up!
Zooz battery reporting can be...dramatic. Meaning, after a day or so, it will likely recover the vast majority of the lost battery life.
I once replaced the batteries of my ZSE 43 tilt sensors immediately before I did a FW update and they immediately reported 20% battery life. That was months ago and now they're both at 100%. It was admittedly winter too, so that was likely compounding the dramatic battery report.
If you haven't received this advice already, ignore the battery reports from your devices other than to use them as an early warning to have the batteries "in stock." Install the Device Activity Check App and only replace the batteries when the device falls off - it will save you a lot of battery money.
I have a few ZSE44s that spent ~8 months reporting 1% battery before falling off.
This basically applies to all of your "coin battery" devices or even the CR123As. The lithium battery chemistry results in much more of a cliff (e.g. 3v today, <2v tomorrow and device is dead) than a gradual decline a la alkaline batteries.
I ended making a battery pack with two AA Batteries that I can use for firmware updates. It needs some perfecting due to the coin battery slot (I used two brass washers separated with black electrical tape) soldered to a plastic battery case. That way I don't have to worry about losing the battery during an update. I still have 4 ZSE41's to update.
Funny, I actually bought that, but was afraid to use it as is. When connected to a USB adapter there is 5Vdc at the "battery". Was not sure if the extra voltage would damage the Zooz devices.
Anyone have issues with inconsistent battery level reporting? One of my ZSE41's battery level is reporting all over the place. I already replaced the battery and it was fine for a couple months and now its doing it again.
I have 3 sensors in the garage and the other 2 seem to be fine. There is a also a Zen 16 relay in the garage so signal should not be an issue.
Colder temps in garage could be doing it. CR2032 batteries are pretty volatile with voltage. Sometimes they drop down when strained and then will come back up later.
Yeah I was thinking it could be the temps. Although the temps have not gone much below 40F here and the garage is under conditioned space, so usually its about 50-60F in there. I have sensors with CR2 batteries in much worse conditions and have not experienced these issues, so maybe its just the CR2032.
Yes the CR2 and CR123A hold voltage much better than the flat button batteries.
I have a ZSE44 in my garage I put a new battery in a few months ago, it takes a CR2450 (which is like a beefed up CR2032). Its already acting up either from lower temps or just the battery losing voltage. I think it ran for almost a full year after it hit 1% last time (including all winter which is very cold in my garage), so I would honestly wait until they stop working to replace the batteries.
