I purchased 3 of these. I'm still testing the first one (aka its still sitting my desk and haven't had the motivation to put it where it will live)
Anyway the instructions say you can loosen the contacts (which appear to be stainless steel allen head screws) and put wires under the screw heads for remote water sensing contacts. I can't imagine why these would not function when connected to a mechanical / magnetic contact.
Sweet, considering I have 3 of these in boxes in the basement I'll need to give that a shot (never got around to adding them as leak sensors lol)
Hi,
If I'm understanding you correctly, I think I do this with door/window contact sensors. I tried the Aqara ones, and they worked but sometimes didn't work. I wondered if it was because it the drivers are user created.
I've now bought some Sonoff ones, since they are now natively supported. Specifically the SNZB-04. I have made it work okay so far.
It's not very easy to solder connection wires on, as they are mighty small, so your soldering needs to be on point!
But they are cheap, and natively supported.
If I've understood you correctly, maybe worth a go?
I should say that I found this thread after googling input devices for habitat, as I'm looking for something easy, cheap, and reliable to get simple signals into Habitat that I can then do things with!
So am I missing other obvious ways to do this?
The Ecolink (Z-WAVE PLUS DOOR WINDOW SENSOR (WHITE AND BROWN CASES) DWZWAVE2.5-ECO) has screw terminals on the board. Doesn't get much easier. But it's Z-Wave.
Also see:
I've also had good luck with the Sonoff SNZB-04, but not exactly an "off the shelf" alternative.
The Aeotec Door Window 7 (700 Series Z-Wave) was mentioned in the link I posted. Found this graphic:
Again, it's Z-Wave.
I'm converting Visonic MCT-340 Es. The solder points are VERY fragile and prone to breaking or burning off. I'm also converting them to usb at the same time and there isn't much room for the wires as the case is compact.
Pix here:
In the end, I think this is the only option for a zigbee-based equivalent even though there are several options with screw-terminals among z-wave sensors.
How did it work out?
While we're on the subject, here is a pix of the solder points on an Iris V2 contact. The comment indicates it is working but I've yet to try it. .....Not sure my eyes & hands are good enough for that one.
Not exact 'screw terminals' but with a lil hex driver, according to option 2, it should work. Soon as it is nice out I'm replacing my unreliable ZW contact with this guy, and will post back any luck.
Thanks Eric. Looks easy, but as you say, Z Wave, and I have avoided it so far, so I'll continue if I can.
Also... in the UK, that is £28! The SNZB-04 can be had for £8.
I'll work on improving my soldering!
Not a bad approach at all. My first doorbell project was assembled much the same way from a SmartThings door/window sensor with leads soldered onto the hall effect sensor. As I have gotten older I have found working on small electronics frustrating due to my vision and lack of steadiness so now I try to go for as much "out-of-box" as I can.
How did you get on with this sensor please?
I've had Aqara sensors in the past which have dropped off the network after a while - didn't know if these were any more reliable.
I haven't added any new sensors to HE for a while, including this project.
Hi, I used a Smartthings water sensor and soldered 2 wires to the top sensor plate. So far it's worked a treat for 12 months. Also they're ZigBee and it's never dropped off
So im using iris v1 sensor as a relay input to detect power failure and return.
Everything works fine unless the UPS ran down and the hub is rebooting while the contact change is sent then its missed.
So the question is which of the sensors above will send the contact state on a poll request and not just when the contact changes. After the hub boots up I need it to poll the relay inputs and get the status. but none of the sensors I have support anything but sending when the state changes
Generally, battery powered devices cannot be polled. Because the device's radio may not be active during polling. For instance, even when updating a parameter in a battery-powered sensor, I first activate the device to ensure its radio is active.
The Hub would be within a couple of feet of the sensors.
The WADWAZ-1 would be perfect but too pricy for my project.
Thanks for the info.
Download the Hubitat app
