- Yes - App can be used with any Relay and any contact or tilt sensor.
- Yes - With a catch, is you set it up properly Alexa requires a verbal PIN to open, to prevent someone from opening your house by yelling through a window. I use Siri on my phone/watch and that does not require a PIN.
- Yes - the app will handle checking the current state and it does not send a button press to the GDO unless the state needs to change.
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You can also use Alexa without a PIN, but you would need to set a virtual switch. Use the switch to trigger a RM rule that opens or closes the door.
{edit}As noted by @jtp10181 having a voice to command open and close without a PIN can be a security risk. I personally don't do it. I either use my dashboard, or my Siri automations. The automations require the phone to be unlocked but I can use a voice command. That is how I open my GDO when on my bike.{/edit}
I use automations on my IPhone to open and close doors. The automations trigger end point triggers to open and close GDOs in RM.
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I knew there was a security trick for Siri, you are right for certain actions it makes you unlock the device first to be sure its you. Works great especially if you have an Apple watch since its usually unlocked while wearing it. Once my house is in sight I just tell it to open the garage door and its fully opened by the time I walk up. Having all my devices voice controlled right from my watch is one of the best things I setup.
Also, Alexa only asks for the PIN when you open, you can close it at will which is nice. Same goes with locking and unlocking doors. Unlocks require a PIN.
Alright, I'm excited now! This is everything I hoped it would be 
Thanks for the replies, I'll probably be back for some more help. I haven't even installed any nonstandard apps yet, so this might take a bit.
Here are the docs, that app has two apps and a driver, they just need to each go into the right place. The author is not interested in adding it to HPM and they did not want me to add it there either. But I just had an idea, I could make a bundle for it, making it a little easier to install.
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You can try this bundle also, it puts all the code where it belongs instead of having to do each one individually.
ZoozGarageDoorApp.zip on DropBox
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/aormz67yqfm5lqllwqtm8/ZoozGarageDoorApp.zip?rlkey=uexnbg4clbxo7bhmpz5iwpcoy&dl=1
Docs for Bundles: Bundles | Hubitat Documentation
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So, I read over the How To on installing custom apps and it says to paste the URL, so can I simply paste this Dropbox URL instead and the Hub will unzip etc?
Follow the Bundles-specific installation guidance (from the Hubitat Documentation site) in the second link Jeff posted just above.
Ah, that makes sense, thanks!
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Yes, but in the bundle install section, I think that link I gave should work as a direct import link.
On a related topic, ideally, I would like to play with the device on my desk, where my PC is. I can simulate the garage door opening or closing with the reed sensor, and I can confirm that the contacts are closing as required. Then I would move the box into the garage for final installation. If this was a Wi-Fi device, I know I could do that reliably. My concern is that if I add the device in my office, then move it to the garage, the Z-Wave network will get confused about how to connect to it. Am I overthinking this? I still find the Z-Wave mesh network a little confusing.
I have paired devices near the hub and then moved them to their final location on several occasions. Never had an issue. As long as you have a good Z-wave mesh it should not be an issue. Also your OP shows a C8, so that will even be better. Most all devices in my house connect directly to my C8. Very few need a repeater.
Just run a single node repair from zwave details on that device after you move it, that should help sort out the routing. Normally that is not even needed. After 24-48 hours of use it should settle into the new location and have a good route established. If you are within 40-50ft there is a good chance it will just go direct to the hub anyway, then there is no issue.
Also, if it is a 800LR device, you could just pair it as Long Range, then it will always direct connect and is not a part of the mesh.
Okay, sounds good. Working on programming now. Bundle worked perfectly using the link.
I'm following this guide
I'm confused about this step, on part 3, sublevel 6:
- In the advanced settings, disable input/manual control for R1 (so that the sensor doesn't trigger the relay). Do the same for R2 if automating both relays. If you're using a wireless contact sensor, just skip this step.
I'm in the device, under device view. I've looked at the parent device and the 4 component devices, and for all of them, the only thing under Advanced is to send a Z-Wave command. Under preferences for the parent device, there is an option to disable the Input Trigger for Relay 1 and Relay 2. Is that what I need to do? Or is there another area entirely I should be looking?
By "advanced settings", they just mean to select the parameter option that decouples a relay's input from its corresponding sensor (e.g. R1 and S1) -- on the Z17, I believe those are params 10 and 11.
If you're using Jeff's driver for the Z17, that can be done from the parent device's Device page.
ETA -- Sheesh, I forgot I recently changed my setup from a Z16 to a couple Z17s... Here is a shot of the Preferences setup for the Z17 controlling my GDO...
I use 2 wired reed sensors for the door (1 full closed, 1 full open), R1 is the GDO "button" relay, and R2 controls line power to the GDO's no-kidding outlet (so I can fully depower the GDO during vacations etc)
You may notice that I'm using the auto-off feature for R1 -- that mimics R1 as a momentary switch, which is what the GDO's own dumb wall switch is.
If you do this, then do not enable the auto-off option in the Zooz garage door app. Or if you don't want to mess with this setting on the Z17, you can instead enable the auto-off in the Zooz app. Either option works fine (I've used both options at different times in my various garage door setups).
Okay, I'm more confused than ever 
You have way more options under preferences that I do. Here's mine:
Also, notice that Current States is blank. When I first got it going, it would tell me open or closed.
Also, the S1 now always says Closed.
On my desk I wired it up exactly like it says on the How To Use... page, except I connected a continuity tester on on the NO Relay 1 side to confirm it was closing (I didn't know it have that nice audible click) and some bell wire on the S1/C side so I could simulate a reed sensor being open or closed.
Definitely use Jeff's driver -- it's a godsend over any other driver out there.
Note this note (from link below) after you switch:
Must PRESS CONFIGURE BUTTON and check all your parameters after changing to this driver.
And when you set your desired parameters from the Details page, make sure you read each one's notes - Jeff tucks some important info in those when relevant.
Is there a how to on switching drivers?
After installing Jeff's driver (doing so thru Hubitat Package Manager is recommended - that way you get easy access to future updates), then just select his driver (as shown here) in the Type field on the parent device page.
@jtp10181 -- our friend here has the native Z17 driver currently installed -- based on that, would you recommend any actions they take before switching to your driver?
It's just been so darn long since I've had to change horses mid-stream like that - I don't recall any best practices... I'm concerned about them ending up with child-device buffoonery if they just do the switch cold, but perhaps that's misplaced here.
Should be no issue switching to my driver, I built it to handle that.
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