And this...
The crazy part is that HE says logs are being transmitted, but nothing is actually happening on the device.
More interested in the full device list and clusters in zwave details. Also maybe rejoin it to the network?
I just removed it and added it again and it works. Strangest thing.
Oh well... thanks for the support y'all.
I've had to do that a couple of times when devices didn't quite pair right.
Random question/Suggestion for Best Practices: Since re-installing the device I have been reminded that the water temperature does not constantly update:
- Other than 'Get Quick Water Temp'. What triggers an update to the water temperature; and
- I used to have a rule to 'Get Quick Water Temp' every 15 minutes. Does everyone else run this command that often?
Hey JDogg! I hacked about with your modified smartthings device handler and had set up my own behavior custom controlled by WebCore on smartthings, It's worked great for a few years and I'm making the switch to hubitat in a couple weeks!!!
I had my webcore app run the get water temp function every 10min when the heater was on, and every hour when the heater was off. This was based on my experience of the spa rising about 10degrees/hr when warming up and cooling off about 1 degree every hour or 2 when off.
I'm so glad you've worked on this over here! I can't wait to get started. not looking forward to the migration, but it's exciting to be getting away from smartthings...
When I get around to messing with the intermatic, it's gonna get interesting.
@jt323bd, One word of advise from someone who made that transition: go to the effort of excluding (unincluding?) as many of your devices while still on your old hub. This makes it SOOO much easier to re-include them on the new hub. Yes, sure you can factory reset just about everything, but every device has a different reset procedure and some are very stubborn even then.
Also I'm curious about the mods you made to the handler? Anything that might be generally useful?
Keith
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I don’t know. Sorry! Did you get anywhere?
Tried every minute. Then every five. Gave up. Going to build my own.
If anyone in the community needs their PE953 remote upgraded to V3.4 firmware, let me know. I'd be happy to do it. I have the intermatic USB zwave stick and a WinXP machine I used to upgrade mine many years ago.
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Can someone explain the reference to “light color” under pool control. I currently have a Hayward 2.0 color led light and was curious if it is possible to control it through software.
Hi @rickyturner ! I've stumbled upon this thread as I've been searching for a "smart" way to control my intellibrite pool lights in the near future (pool is still being built) and wanted to express my thanks for sharing your setup.
I'm definitely not going to be able to replicate the sweet dashboard/app you have created but I'm hoping to at least get the basic functionality to work, following your outline. (Full disclaimer..my home is currently set up with smartthings but I'm obviously longing for more!). I think I can set up something, again not as gracefully, via 15 virtual switches and some webcore rules to send the http requests etc.
Given this thread is a little old...I was wondering if you had any updates or recommendations on how you would do things differently now? Is there a new Shelly or shelly-like relay you would use now instead?
Finally, my pool light will also be 12V and I'll have to tap into the transformer as well (unless there's a Shelly that can switch it's own input now?) and I was hoping you would be so kind to share how you wired up your Shelly in there....just so I don't completely mess things up! 
Again, appreciate you sharing all you have so far...I've got my first Shellys and bread board kit arriving tomorrow....no clue when I'll actually have pool lights though! Lol, all I have is the shell of the pool so far!
Best regards,
Tariq
Quick update - I'm actually going to try and power the Shelly from the 12V side of things...just to make sure I circumvent any potential risk of having 110V applied to lights over the Shelly (worst case scenario, shelly melts and somehow wires cross from inputs to outputs...yes..I'm paranoid like that).
So I'm going to build or buy some rectifier to convert the 12VAC on the transformer output to a steady 12VDC to run the shelly and then switch the 12VAC - that way I'm always only playing with 12V and feel safer with my family swimming in the pool.....the sky could still fall but at least it wasn't because of my home automation projects!
I’m really tired of the fax-machine level technology that is the PE653. It’s great that we’re all making it work, but it’s EOL’d and it’ll fail eventually. I am going to build my own ESP/relay based system, do it direct to HASS or HomeKit so I can skip Hubitat and Z-Wave entirely. I plan a wireless temperature sensor to get beyond the PE653’s limitations; concentrate on the hot tub itself rather than things best left to other tools; support good reasonable telemetry around temperature, etc.
If anyone is interested in helping, drop me a line. I’m Joshua, at nowhereville org. GitHub - tooluser/MagicLantern: Implement a REST-fully controlled light with AdaFruit Feather Huzzah ESP8266 and NeoPixel rings (aka ws2812fx)
I’m not going to rush about it but I’m hoping to get this done before I pitch this thing through a wall or it fails on its own.
@dbeckr50 The DTH has limited support for the Pentair color LED lights. These lights are controlled by a rapid series of off/on pulses of the power. The number of consecutive off/on cycles selects one of 14 different hard-coded colors and/or sequences. The first 7 are rotating color patterns (eg: blue-red-white) and 8-14 are constant colors.
The DTH "settings" allow you to configure which of the switches control Pentair lights. Be sure to set this first. Then a function: setLightColor(color) triggers the off/on pulses. The color parameter is a number from 1-14.
I am not familiar with the Hawyard light, so I can't say if it is compatible or not. You could certainly give it a try...
Thank you
Hi, @keithriley. Enjoying life without a pool?
I've run into a weird problem and could use your suggestion. The device handler is working fine for turning switches on or off, so that's good. But, about a month ago, it stopped reporting status. For instance, I'll turn on the light (either via the PE653 device SW5 or via the pseudo switch "pool light") and it turn on but the handler shows no change. Likewise, SW1 controls the high speed pump and it's stuck in on, presumably its actual status when the PE653 stopped talking to the hub. The event log is blank for the last month.
If you recall my house, my PE653 is about 30 feet from the hub, but behind a concrete block wall. There is a window that I think helps signal propagation. I also have an iris Z-Wave repeater on the inside of the block wall to try to assist. It's been installed thusly for 6 years and signal issues have been rare.
For the record, I hate Z-Wave. If this were Zigbee, I'd just re-pair the device. But the convoluted mixing of the hub, PE653 and PE953 via Z-Wave have me hesitant to mess with the pairing.
What would you do?
@CAL.hub Nice to hear from you. Although I haven't seen this with the 653, I have seen multiple cases where ZWave devices come un-paired spontaneously, like a wall switch for example. I have to force reset and re-pair. Makes no sense because the switch is NOT factory reset, I have to do this to re-pair. Anyway, the 654 re-pair process is not THAT bad, but if you're going to do it, then plan to either bring in your 653 or take out your hub to get them close to each other for the pairing.
I have 3 alternate suggestions for you:
- Try the Z-Wave repair option. Sometimes this helps devices re-explore and rebuild their view of the mesh network and who their closest neighbors are. This is a long shot but easy.
- The 653 has the option of separating its antenna from the top of the unit. You then interconnect them with a standard Ethernet RJ45 cable. Maybe you could find a spot, even a few feet closer, and not behind the wall?
- Add a powered Z-Wave device somewhere between the two, ideally outside. Perhaps a Z-wave outlet or switch(be sure its Zwave and not Zigbee). Be sure to 'Zwave repair' after adding or moving any devices.
Best of luck!
