Consult with the Hubitat guys wether you can mix RA2 and Caséta bridges in the hub. I don't know that answer for that. In regard to RA2 fan controller with RA2 select bridge, yes you can. The standard Caséta dimmers that you find in big box stores will not work with an RA2 bridge. Pico works with both, but there are only two wall dimmers supported by both.
Which two dimmers are supported by both?
I ran into a similar issue with one of the contemporary Hunter manufactures for Costco (the Exeter). The commonality with these types of fans seems to be the lack of pull chains for fan speed and lights. If they don't have pull chains they're likely using a custom controller and can't be controlled with a wall switch; an absolutely stupid design choice.
Worse, the controller can't be swapped out with another brand because the fan harness it plugs into contains many more wires than the standard white neutral, black fan load, and blue light load wiring.
The chart shows it's Designer RF 6CL and 10ND, but I would give Lutron a call to confirm that's not a mistake in the chart.
It doesn’t really matter at this point. All my fan switches are GE. All my Lutron dinners are PD-5NE dimmers. I’m not going to throw a couple hundred dollars at putting in RA2 equipment just to put 3 dimmers on Lutron RA2 fan switches just to coordinate the look. I’ll just keep my GE fan switches and roll with what I have. Thanks though.
Thanks but my fans are all Hunter fans with no lights on them. I simply want a fan switch that will turn on / off and go to low, med, and high and interface with Alexa. So far the GE Fan Controller switch does the job, I just wish it has the look of the Lutron Caseta line of switches. Meh... LOL thanks though!
I’m sure, or you never would have been considering such an expensive controller as the RA2. Idea here is, if these are controllable via Hubitat, you can control them with Pico remotes for both light and fan or just fan if you want. Alexa and Google Home are of course already controllers for these as standard, but it could be done via Hubitat as well.
Hrmmm now you’ve piqued my interest.
Same thing can already be done with the Hampton Bay Zigbee controller, but the hope is to have something that doesn’t lose pairing and force this temperamental re-pairing proceedure like the Hampton Bay controller has.
Good Morning,
Were you successful with this fan controller? Please let me know.
Well, we have three fans (two Monte Carlo's and one Hunter).
The Hunter is a 'pull chain' variety, and for that, I use the GE Z-wave Smart Fan Control for fan control (after pulling the pull chain 3 times for max on), which works great to control fan speed. For that fan's light, I use an Aeotec Nano Dimmer wired inline in the canopy - that also works well.
For the Monte Carlo in our master bedroom (not the 'ceiling hugger') variety, I use the GE Z-wave Smart Fan Control as well. I had to wire the fan remote control unit back inline in the canopy, and I use that remote control only to reverse fan direction. I turned the fan on to 'max' speed' using that control, and then control it from the GE Z-wave Fan Controller. The light on this fan was easier, as we had a double-gang box in the master bedroom, so I had the electricians just bring down the red wire controlling the fan light, and I have an Aeotec Nano Dimmer with Wallswipe (their latest control surface) wired to control the light.
The last Monte Carlo is a 'ceiling hugger' in our Great Room/TV Room. This is the one that's a bugger - it's got a highly integrated remote received in the unit, with a mess of wires that confounded even our electrician. It works as the other Monte Carlo does (remote control unit used only once to turn the fan to 'max' and then kept around to reverse fan direction in winter) with the GE Z-wave Fan Control. For the light on this one, I have been thinking about trying the Aeotec Nano Dimmer in the canopy (there's room), but haven't been brave enough because even the electricians couldn't figure out how to access just the wiring controlling the light without potentially hosing up the remote receiver). Unfortunately, we don't have a spot in our double-gang box where the fan control is for a separate Z-wave light switch, as our patio light switch is in that box.
One of these days, I may try to do the Aeotec Nano Dimmer for that fan light, since we technically have a 'spare' version of this fan (long story), but, for now, we don't really need the light in that room, as it has three rows of two cans each, so there is plenty of light.
Sorry for the long-winded answer, but I thought I should give the full update on what we ended up doing with our fans.
1 Like
Wow Mannn...Fan insanity there! I am lucky that I just have the one little 'ole ceiling fan with no existing remote to contend with, so it sounds like I should be safe using this switch with it. Thank you for getting back to me!
1 Like
I got it in there...with no major issues. Wiring was cut and dry as I was hoping. Took a few rounds of Z-Wave discover and repair but all is GOOD MANN!! Is cool.."Hey google, turn on the east wing fan" NICE!
2 Likes
FWIW I have 8 of these fan controls on pull-chain Hunter fans. They work great. For setup, all I did was set the fan control to 100%, use the pull chain to set the fan to high speed, then I actually cut the chains off since I don't like the danglies.
I have light kits on 6 of the 8 fans too, but those are wired using a separate circuit and controlled using separate GE dimmer switches.
1 Like
At the moment we don't use the lights too much so for now it's not an issue. BUT...pretty safe bet the time will come when Wifey decides "I REALLY need these too Johnnnnnn!" Haaaa!
I ended up installing a two gang box and used a Leviton dimmer and GE Z-Wave fan controller switch instead of the Hampton Bay Zigbee controller. This replaced a single gang box that had both the light and fan control on one. There were too many negative reviews for the Hampton Bay wireless wall switch and the cost of the dimmer and fan switch was actually less then the Hampton Bay controller and wireless wall module. Plus no batteries!
Edit: I did notice that the GE 14287 fan controller's device page shows up as a dimmer, although the device driver is actually GE Smart Fan. According to the spec there is 3 speeds, but the dimmer of course allows 0-100. Any one know at what level the fan goes from low-med-high?
1 Like
Low = 1-33
Medium = 34-66
High = 67-99
My rules just use 33, 66, 99
In ST when I looked at the level vs l-m-h it was something weird like 15, 40, 75.
I don't remember it being linear, and it definitely never went to 100, that I'm sure of.
I had a feeling that this was the correct levels, thanks for confirming. I think a low-med-high setting should be added to the device page. Google Home also sees it as a dimmer instead of a fan controller it seems because when I tell it to turn on the master bedroom lights it also turns on the fan.
