Xiaomi & Aqara Devices - Pairing & Keeping them connected

No idea, I'm afraid I haven't been keeping track of it unfortunately.

No zigbee changes in 2.2.2

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@mike, @aaiyar and @rocketwiz it sounds like the reason behind the dropping devices lays elsewhere since there are no zigbee changes. If you all have your devices back and this is not repeated and no one has Wireshark logs from when this happened I supposed we will never know the why?

I guess it’s a coincidence then.

I don't believe in those, but if we have no way of knowing exactly what happened I don't see how we trace this down. :frowning:

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I'm just coming back to this after some time writing drivers! However, I'm still having trouble getting this XStick configured correctly and paired with HE, would you mind giving me some pointers, @simon - or anybody who, unlike me, knows what they're doing! :wink:

So, trying this on Windows 10 now, XCTU up and running, legacy drivers downloaded. Firmware 23A7, ZigBee Router API, PAN ID set, JV set to 1, rest of the settings match your screenshots. Should I then continue with adding the micro python code described in the first post of Everything XBee or is that not necessary? I just receive the message:

Could not access the XBee file system. Make sure your XBee module supports the file system feature and the serial port parameters are correct.

I've got no idea if the XStick supports this or not!

So, I continue on without uploading the micro python code and presumably I click the tiny "Discover radio nodes in the same network" button with HE in pairing mode? Well, though XCTU says "Waiting for remote devices to answer..." I see nothing on either side. :frowning:

"Discover radio nodes in the same network" is looking for other XBees that can be programmed remotely through the program.

Righto, so what needs to happen in XCTU once I've popped all the settings in, or should the XStick just start working and appear in the found devices list?

Okay, found some instructions on ST forum with an XStick-specific config which appears to have me up and running!

Apologies, I also realise this is not particularly Xiaomi-related (though that is what I'm trying to debug). I shall cease derailing!

Okey-cokey, I think I'm calling time on the QBKG03LM and '04LM. I've battled these devices on two systems over the past... wow, year and a half. I'd eventually moved to having them on their own C-5; their own mesh with nothing but themselves and a few TrÄdfri repeaters. All LQIs above 250.

Well, I had to turn the ground floor lighting circuit off yesterday. The hub and repeaters, plus switches elsewhere in the house, all stayed on. Not one of them reconnected when the power came back. Not only did they not come back, they knocked the ones which weren't powered down off the mesh. Nothing on the mesh works any more.

I now have some of the D1 variant on order, because there aren't a whole lot of other options in the UK. Hopefully they've learned a thing or two working with IKEA, because the stuff they've done for them works great!

I'm going to try the QBKG22LM (two gang), QBKG25LM (three gang) and the WXKG07LM (two gang wireless). No idea when they'll appear, let's see how shipping from China is going right now. :slight_smile:

Sorry to hear it doesn't work for you, those have created lots of issues for many though. It could partially be fixed with 2.2.3, but I understand if enough is enough :stuck_out_tongue:

I have the QBKG22LM, it has worked well. QBKG25LM is a version I don't have, but my driver should work with it, if not I'd love to sort it out. Same goes for the WXKG07LM. :wink:

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Great stuff, they’ll be on my walls until the new ones appear anyway, so still happy to test - I’m just not going to rely on them.

Ha, now I’ve said that they’ll end up performing just fine.

What’s changing in 2.2.3 that might help?

It might not apply to you, but it's the PAN id changes that should be less frequent and possibly not occur at all. Since I've not seen the full traffic logs from Wireshark when those types of wall switches you use fall off and cause issues I can't be certain. If you do happen to record Wireshark logs of that happening I'd love to take a look.

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I have a CC2531 on order, so with any luck I'll be up and running with Wireshark by the end of the week.

I had no idea they did change! I've recorded mine to see if they do...

:+1:

IT does under certain circumstances, it's part of the spec but needs to be done with caution. The upcoming change make it less likely to happen due to only temporary incorrect packets in the mesh. The UI seems to not update until after a reboot though. At least I've never seen it update until after a reboot but I've seen users reporting the contrary.

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I'm now the proud owner of some Aqara D1 wired (no neutral) and wireless switches. I have two QBKG22LM and two WXKG07LM set up at the moment and over the past 48 hours they've reliably reported in with these drivers and work with no issues so far (save for the button configuration being wrong, but I'm interested in their reliability on the mesh right now).

The wireless switches check in every 50 minutes with battery, temperature (looks a bit high), RSSI and LQI readings. The wired switches check in with the same readings (with a fake battery level of 3300, but temperatures that look right) every 6 minutes.

Whereas the previous wired and wireless Aqara switches I owned couldn't exist on the same mesh without the wireless ones being bumped off, these appear to perform perfectly fine so far. It's the same mesh that the old devices were on, consisting only of these Aqara D1 switches, one TrÄdfri repeater, three TrÄdfri lamps and a Salus SP600 outlet.

Obviously I'm only 48 hours in, but that's already 24 times more reliable for the wireless switches than I was experiencing before!

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After adding two more QBKG22LM wired switches I hit a problem; both of the WXKG07LM wireless switches and the SP600 outlet lost connectivity. The recovery mode of the driver would often bring back the wireless switches after three or four presses, which is better than the older version of the wireless switch could manage, but ten minutes later they'd be gone again.

Following the general advice that lamps are terrible repeaters I removed the TrÄdfri lamps from the mesh and added two more TrÄdfri repeaters. After about 24 hours things seem to have stabilised again, to the extent that the wireless switch actually worked when my wife pressed it this morning.

@veeceeoh How to avoid having any repeaters, and having a direct connection to the sensor? I don’t have any working repeaters and can’t buy them... should I just unplug every zigbee device in the house? I am fine with avoiding these.

Just a question.
If you do not have any repeaters, why do you need to avoid using them.
Wouldn't your devices connect directly to your hub?
Just a thought.
Thanks.

@bobbles I was asking if it would work directly for 20 feet with a wall.

Anyway, I found a standard Konke sensor for cheaper so I don’t need it now

Hi! I bought an Aqara motion sensor DJT11LM, pair it in hubitat without issue. I put it on my front door, if somebody knocking in the door to give me a notification. The problem I have is that I don't know how to set it in dashboard (I tried motion, acceleration), but is not changing the state. Any ideas? Thanks!