That's true, i never thought of that.
@Angus_M, with your TV turned off, try pushing one of the numbered buttons on the remote as some TV’s turn on this way.
Just something to try that you could use as a discrete ON button.
Ah cool idea. But I also need a discrete "off". It's frustrating to not be able to find the correct discrete code to use.
In desperation I've bought a brand new Sony for our living room, for which there is a very good App on this forum and that's working perfectly (with a proper on/off via the integration lol). The Sharp will be banished to the bedroom!
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You can try what I do with devices that do not have discrete on/off commands. Use the cheapest zigbee, or old z-wave power outlet that reports instant wattage. Virtual switch for your device triggers RM/WC, and you evaluate whether the equipment is on or off, then toggle, or not.
Just food for thought.
I'm curious if you could trigger a learning process in a loop to watch for incoming commands. I have no use for this, but something similar might work. The question would be whether or not you could cancel the learning process at-will, to start a code-transmit.
I have worked with automating ir control for Samsung TVs for probably 10 years now. I have not found discrete on/off codes for Samsung TVs. Your best best is to do what @stevenascott suggested. I've done things like that in this type of situation, and it can work pretty good.
It's a Sharp. Actually I found the codes for discrete on and off online but they don't work. They look like a different format to codes that do work in the app. I posted about it recently.
For my Samsung I'm using the rest API from the forum and it works very nicely. No need for IR control on that TV.
I guess I missed the brand change in the discussion. 
Some brands, in some code series do not have discrete on/off codes. If you have a series of code sequences that work you could try to brute force it with other sequences that fit the general pattern.
At some point just go with the power monitor method above, unless you want to “see how deep the rabbit hole goes.” 
Broadlink noob here, so sorry if this is really simple and sorry that it is more of a general broadlink question versus a HD broadlink question, but is it possible to have multi zone ir setup with broadlink? By that I mean could I have a pro or mini by my TV which receives my remote commands and then sends them over to another mini in my component cabinet that does not have line of sight from the couch?
Unfortunately not. The Broadlink only receives commands when it is in learning mode, so it would not be usable as a remote extender.
That said, there are a lot of very smart people on this forum, one of which might be able to change that somehow...
Unfortunate, I currently am trying out a Harmony hub that is in the cabinet with an external blaster outside the cabinet and it works pretty well, but I was looking for a more economical alternative.
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Another idea here, folks, is to attach ANY device that accepts IR or LAN signals, then make your TV turn on via HDMI CEC. I can power on, or detect when my Denon AVR is turned on for example, and if I didn't use a Harmon, I could tell my projector to turn on with the AVR.
Similar with Chromecast GTV, etc. Fire Sticks. you name it. I can turn my Vizio TV on just by sending a speech/etc command to it via Hubitat. I know the options dwindle as you get older and older equipment, but HDMI CEC has been around for quite some time. Unless the TV was made before 2006, you would likely have it. I am pretty sure even my Panasonic Plasma 1080p from 2006 has CEC.
Just food for thought. Sometimes approaching it from another perspective can help. In this case the easiest thing to do, in my opinion, is an el-cheapo zigbee outlet that reports wattage. Create virtual device for TV. RM/WC rule detects TV toggle on/off, and based on power draw, determine whether or not RM3/4/? sends the actual IR code.
Side benefit is you can power off your TV to prevent parasitic power drain while you're on vacation or whatever.
If I'm not mistaken they even make smart power strips, where you can monitor/control each outlet. You could apply the same logic to a ton of non-smart IR-based devices.
You could definitely rig something up with a cheap IR receiver and something like a RPi or Windows PC.. and they make legit IR repeaters for exactly this use-case. RM3/4 etc is not really a good option for this, since you are adding unneeded complexity.
You will find that the Harmony hub setup is a rather good bang-for-buck when you consider all that it has to offer. I'm only playing with the RM3 mini because I wanted to see if I could control dumb devices like my tower fan in other rooms. I'm also going to test a friend's pool remote that works on RF. Otherwise I would only recommend Harmony all day long.
Hello there,
probably a dumdum newbie-question, but I still have to ask: I've got the Broadlink RM4 pro and I want to integreat it into my HE. I've downloaded the driver and the app file, as far as I can tell (This one: Hubitat - Google Drive). But right now I'm stuck... I can't open this files and I have no clue how to import them... Can someone please help?
I am not at a computer right now to provide the screenshots to help, but basically you go in the driver and app code pages on the left side of the HE interface, and copy and paste the code into those editors accordingly, save, and do the next one. But if you run into issues I would wait for someone that can hopefully provide screenshots.
Also take a look at the first post namely this part before continuing:
I would do that, but the only thing I could find are .groovy files and I don't know which program I have to use to open them... 
About the RM4 warning. I've seen that, but also found a post how to get it up and running. 
Oh okay, .groovy files are just special text files, not sure if you have ever done any coding but the files for a given language generally have a special extension to denote that they are for that language/compiler/etc. You should be able to open them in any basic text editor like Notepad on windows.
For future reference, in my experience 99% of files can be opened via an archiver (winRAR/7Zip/Winzip etc) or a text editor (Notepad/Notepad++/VScode etc) or an image viewer but those are generally easy to spot and no harm in trying, worst case scenario is doesn't open or is unreadable but it won't do any harm to the file and if you are super paranoid just create a backup of the file first.
not sure if you have ever done any coding
Not once. I'm now trying to get into it. At least as far, that I can understand, what I have to do, to get my stuff up and running. 
The Notepad didn't work. I'm now trying Eclipse. Let's see if I can get everything working. Thanks for your help. 
I am extremely surprised notepad does not work, I swear I have done it before.
I am extremely surprised notepad does not work, I swear I have done it before.
Yeah, you were right. I'm just to much of a newbie... I got it open with Notpad now... 
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sorry.... where is the code?
