Wire zooZ Zen16 to LiftMaster 886LMW garage door opener, MyQ Security+

I am new to the automation scene and wanted to provide some feedback that I hope helps others with the frustration around Security + based GDO (garage door openers). This is a continuation to a closed thread that covered similar frustrations but never provided much detail regarding the how-to or a link to a premade solution from Garadget. My hope is to not discount the information of the previous thread but to add my findings on how I overcame this hurdle.

A little about my setup... I have the LiftMaster 1D8169 MyQ capable motor.

On the wall, I have the LiftMaster 886LMW button. There are several posts that go through the limitations of utilizing the Zen16 with a setup like this. If you are comfortable doing your own soldering, this will be quite easy and possible with any button you own.

Similar to a comment on the attached thread, you will want to take a continuity tester and determine what solder points are associated to the buttons open/close sequence. Below is my jerry rigged method after testing continuity and confirming the zen16 was able to cycle the garage door.

For the wire, I used a for conductor security wire (nothing special). Stranded pairs will make the install easier since you can tin the ends easier. Its definitely not needed, but I hate messy wire so I used heat shrink to make things look clean...

Once the contact points have been verified I went ahead and determined the best way to run a pair of wires to minimize footprint. Pictured below you can see I was able to run the wire under the on/off switch to the contact points (this was lucky). I went a little extra and trimmed the wire to the length needed in order to minimize clutter, and soldered the connections.

Once the connections were made, I just folded the wire over the top. Making an X in the cover allowed me to run the wire through the back. I did this because I installed single gang boxes behind each GDO to avoid wires from showing. This process is open to your liking... Either way you have the flexibility to run the wire out of the slots on the controller if your wires are running up the wall.

It is important for me to note, I built my wire to be about 40cm or 15 3/4 inches long (just make it 16in) with spade connectors on so that I can remove the controller any time I want.

Once completed, my configuration looked like the following (mocked up)…


I have completed the install per the above mock up...


The last entry in the closed thread was a link to very detailed solutions, including several around the Garadget device.

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You're absolutely right about that. My aim was to offer an in-house solution that doesn't require buying a slew of accessories to circumvent the MyQ limitations. While the 'Local Control Options' thread contained a wealth of information, it might have felt overwhelming for beginners in automation due to the various methods discussed. My intention was to simplify things with a straightforward, clean installation guide complete with pictures for those who might be unsure of where to start. I've stumbled upon several articles online discussing MyQ and using API IFTTT (which comes with costs) or requiring additional purchases to make it functional.

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Nice write up!
Love all the pics. :smiley:

Might be useful to add the model of wall button to the title for future searchers.
LiftMaster 886LMW

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Don't know if you saw the below post, but utilizing that device is the simplest way to achieve this automation.

Took a quick look and it appears to be a Garadget type device in a plain wrapper for more money...?
Or did I miss something. :thinking:
As an even cheaper option you can always roll your own (great article HERE).

Tossing in another unsolicited option - the RATgDO - which is like $30 for the raw board, and $45 for a full kit - supports Sec1.0 and Sec2.0 openers, and gives both status and control access to the gDO light, lock out functions, and visibility to the obstruction sensors. - No soldering required, and just a mount of a USB PS, next to the gDO itself, and wire in 3 wires. - A bit more complexity on what FW to chose (ESP, HomeKit, or MQTT), but if ultimately several connectivity options are supported

Of course, YMMV - But the RatgDO is what resolved this long term for me.

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