How to wire zooZ Zen16 to garage door opener

I've got the Zen16 wired up, and it seems to be working. I wired it in parallel to the button that already exists. I just changed the switch type for relay 1 to Garage Door in the Zen16 preferences and it seems to work without a hitch.

When wiring it, I accidentally made it so that the red and white wire at the back of the GDO were constantly shorted, which made the garage door close and it wouldn't open again until I removed power, fixed the wires, and then powered it on and hit the button. I suspect that this is what the lock button on the switch does, is just keeps the two wires shorted together.


I have a Chamberlain GDO it says that it's MyQ compatible but it's not set up. I'm trying to use the Zen 16 in all kinds of different configurations and I cannot get it to work

I believe you will need something like this in order for a typical relay to operate the MyQ and MyQ compatible openers.
Security+ 2.0 Dry Contact Adapter – Garadget

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Hi, could you elaborate on how you would wire up the wall switch to input on the Zen16? Seems I would need a 120v input dry contact switch wired into the SW port on the Zen16.

as long as your switch to open the garage is just a simple dry contact (take it apart.. touch two wires does it open and close) than you dont need anything fancy.. just plug the relay port on the zen 16 into the same two connectors on your door your switch plug into.

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Currently face-palming... Was thinking of a different switch type from another project instead of the wall garage switch.

Thanks, haha


I have the same Chamberlain yellow button garage door as you and wanted to use the Zen16. I was going to use this switch but keep my current switch too.

Security+ 2.0 Wired Dry Contact Adapter sku 883LM-DCA

But I'm a bit confused on the wiring. This switch works with Security 2.0 doors. Can you give a detailed explanation of the wiring from this switch to the zen16 and then to the garage door opener? Thanks.

Unfortunately I’ve read (no first hand experience) that the button you posted REPLACES your existing button switch and doesn’t work in addition to. If you desire to keep your existing button there are wireless button options with dry contact wires too like this one:

But to answer your question on wiring, the additional wires coming out of the side just need to be connected together to “press” the button. Any dry contact relay will work.

I don't really need the original button. Just Thought it would work too.

Let me make sure I understand the wiring. According to the installation instructions that came with this new button, Normally, I would use just the white and red/white wires from the back of the button to the garage door opener. It didn't mention using the additional wires on the side of the new button. So in order to use the Zen16 I thought I would just connect the white and the red/white wires from the new button to the Zen green Switch 1 and then run wires from green Zen R1 and R2 connections to the garage door opener. as illustrated below.

Are you saying in addition to the wiring I described I need simply twist the new button's side wires together? Or does the white and red/ white wires connect to the garage door opener AND the new button's side wires go to the Zen16 instead or the white and red/white wires?


from the picture you gave, the red and white wires are for the door (the other 2 are for the light) you'll want to tie your ZEN16 into the contacts with the red and white wires (do this at the board level), then it will simulate pressing the button. this will trigger your door. you can put it in parallel with your existing button as well, so both the existing and this new one will function. that's how i have mine set up and it works

i'll take a picture of mine when i get off work later and post it here for you

Thanks. I appreciate seeing the picture.

Ok, i stand corrected. It looks like i soldered directly to the button, then the red and white go to the motor

sorry for the multiple post, the last one was from my phone.

so in the first pic, the red and black wires are soldered onto the button (used a multimeter to help me determine which pins shorted when it was pressed), then that goes to the relay. the twisted pairs go from the red/white connections and into the motor in parallel with the existing button. both work no problems

Thanks for the pictures. I'm horrible at soldering. I just bought the switch pictured in my earlier post that's pre wired.

However if you want to do the soldering yourself, look at this post.

Did some more thinking about this. Do I still have two wires from the Zen R1 and R2 go to the motor also?

no. you would connect the clear wires (based on the pre-wired pic) from the button into R1 (or R2), so when you activate the relay it'll activate the switch. the red/white wires go to your motor

the button will give the security code so it'll activate the motor. if you go directly from R1 (or R2) to the motor, nothing will happen since it does bridge the connection, but it won't receive the security so it won't do anything

Ahh.. Now I get it. The two R1 points when triggered are connected. This makes the new switch think the button was pushed. Which then send a signal from the new button's Red and White connections to the garage door motor.

I know this is an old thread but I wanted to add some information to it that worked for me.

@dadarkgtprince I used your guidance to wire up the opener. The wiring was simpler then I thought from the wiring diagrams. Just like suggested I soldered two wires to the existing Liftmaster switch at the board level. As you said a multimeter can be use to determine the two pins that complete the circuit when pressed. I have the simple security code switch with light control. I then ran those two wires to the Zen16 relay 1, normally open connection. That is it! I have a single switch, no need for an additional purchase.

Perhaps I misread but for those of us with the secure code switch it seemed like we needed to purchase another switch with dry contact lead. I know some may not want to solder so that may be why the new switch is suggested.

For some who do want to solder just note, this is uber simple, two wire setup. All existing control of the light is retained. I have the Liftmaster 8164W.

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That's part of it. The other reason for purchasing an additional wall control or remote is to facilitate mounting the control and relay at the head of the GDO where you already have power and a good place to strap it down. In my case, I already had a pair of bell wire running to my wiring closet from there.

This topic has more recently been discussed at topic below, so that may be a better place for any follow-up.

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