How about Incognito mode? Good idea on @gopher.ny, about out of things to try on my end.
Oh, great idea. Trying incognito.
Firefox, Chrome, and Edge all exhibit this pattern in regular and Private/Incognito/InPrivate modes.
Guess we’ll need to wait for the @support_team to weigh in.
It felt a little buggy at first, but the instructions were clear enough. I just thought I missed a step or somehow fudged the process. It likely didn't help that there were a couple of software updates conducted while I was working through this...
I genuinely appreciate all the support from @thebearmay and look forward to some attention from the Dev team to dig into what's up here.
I want to say I might have seen an endpoint that can set the SSID directly, searching now..
Hitting this endpoint resulted in the hub connecting to wifi and restoration of the menu item!
Many thanks for this workaround @marktheknife!
Credit to @thebearmay, really. I recalled that thread only after he thought of the idea to use the endpoint 
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Ok, I'm late to the party, but this is definitely a bug. The screenshots above provide enough information, and it's going to get fixed.